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Unread 05-11-2012, 06:56 PM   #46
swatson454
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Stick with the 18mm and not my pic. I forgot to mention that in my post. I just wanted to make sure you held the top of the carb correctly when you measured it. Good catch and good luck


Shawn

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Unread 05-11-2012, 07:14 PM   #47
kovic
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I think the float level is good. You will see a little pen mark on the measure, thats 18mm.
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Unread 05-11-2012, 07:18 PM   #48
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Yep, damn. Keep digging, buddy. You'll find it.


Shawn
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Unread 05-11-2012, 07:23 PM   #49
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I should be able to get it perfect with the .75 primary right? Im really not sure what else to try, I just dont know the "science" behind why it would stall after hard acceleration, its not at hard stops, or hard acceleration through 2nd gear, its if I gun it hard all the way through 4th then let off, then it craps.
Perhaps the needle travel? Not letting enough gas in fast enough? I have it moving 2mm but how far open should it get, should I be able to see through the gas inlet holes on the needle guide when the needle is pulled all the way down?

Last edited by kovic; 05-11-2012 at 10:18 PM..
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Unread 05-12-2012, 07:29 AM   #50
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Did you get that kinked fuel line squared away and are you dead-positive that the needle will move away from its seat a full 2mm as the float drops?

Also, where did you end up on your initial timing and what source are you using for vacuum advance? If you're not already there, I'd sure recommend 10* initial and that you go back to manifold vacuum, at least until you get that pssst psssst canister deal lined out and are sure that your vacuum lines are routed correctly and everything that runs on vacuum is working properly.

Also, I already forgot but has mcmud had you put a vacuum gauge on the s-port at idle? If so, what are your current readings and current idle speed?

When you were playing around with your linkage, did you end up sealing the secondary throttle plate completely in the bore of the carb?


Shawn

Edit: Regarding your symptoms, will it do it if you ease back off the throttle (even fairly quickly) but not allowing the throttle to snap shut? Also, have you seen how long you can go balls-out in 3rd or 4th? If it's a fuel delivery problem, the engine should start to puke on you if you stay deep in the throttle in a higher gear.
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Unread 05-12-2012, 09:21 AM   #51
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Shawn,

Those are all very good points you've suggested kovic have a close look into.

FWIW, I read a low volume, albeit what has been reported a seemingly rich idle mix at the feed hole having a good chance of causing the stall.

Although the carb appears clean there is always the possibility that the low speed air bleed is restricted, if he still has the cover off it would be a great time to check.

You've mentioned the secondary plate position. What I/we may consider a tight mixture screw setting can be caused by fuel escaping the secondary plate, any hint of that progression hole being exposed would surely upset a better range/flow setting of the idle mixture screw.

With regard to the popping at the tail pipe when tweaking that screw 1/4 turn out. Although I can realize a slight bog/soggy sound and/or an eventual loading up, I can't remember hearing an unruly pop at the pipe with that twist.
What are your thoughts on that?

If after a thorough check on these things are behind and he still experiences the stall he might try to eliminate that with opening the throttle plate to the point of reading 2-3" of vacuum at the "S" port, without re-adjustment to the mixture. It would at least tell us if this symptom is related to an air leak or a restricted flow.




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Unread 05-12-2012, 03:44 PM   #52
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- Yes fuel line is sqaured away, and yes 2mm needle travel.
- I was using ported with 12*. Just tryed 10* and back to manifold, cant get it to run smooth.
-I dont know if my vacuum lines are routed correctly, it was best when I used mcmuds diagram, only issue was the psst psst from the canister, I dont need any emission stuff, is there another diagram I can follow?
- I have done the vacuum gauge at the S port, I achieved zero vacuum at around 550-600 rpms
-When I had the carb off I adjusted the secondary plate, 1/6th turn after touching the lever
- When I drove it I could accelerate for around a 1/2- 3/4th mile or so and no issues (dont want to go on the main roads, as jeep is not legal yet), I could not test the easing off the peddle today,as I switched to manifold vacuum and it stalls easilly now, When I did drive it it stalled after hard accell, then it was hard to start and keep running without pumping the gas for a moment.
-NOt sure how to tell if low speed air bleed is clogged, but i sprayed a crap load of carb cleaner through it and it came out of places.
-mcmud, any other vacuum diagrams I can try? Perhaps one that doesnt include all the emission stuff...I dont know, I just have no idea if my setup is right, all that i have noticed so far is I have at least a little more success with ported..... but who knows

Parts for the team rush upgrade are coming in tomorrow..... Maybe i should just return them? Since it looks as though I need to figure something else out with this fuel delivery system... just cant afford injection.


Thanks guys for sticking with this

Last edited by kovic; 05-12-2012 at 04:02 PM..
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Unread 05-12-2012, 04:03 PM   #53
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Ignition problems mimic carb problems at times. I'd continue with the ignition up grade.

Do you have a temperature gun? If so at idle gun each if the cylinders at their exhaust ports. See if they are all close or if one is a few 100 degrees cooler then the rest.
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Unread 05-12-2012, 04:03 PM   #54
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Switching to 10* and manifold vacuum causing a worse idle is really fishy to me but I can't put a fin/flipper on it

I'm certainly not the worlds best troubleshooter but if I were in your shoes, I'd disconnect everything except the vacuum advance (manifold vacuum), cap off any other ports on the carb and start from there. If you can get the carb straightened out like that, start adding some of the vacuum stuff back in and see if and when it goes to crap.

Maybe mcmud will have an "ah haa!" moment from what you posted but I'm struggling to tell wtf is going on.


Shawn

Edit: yeah, definitely move forward with the ignition upgrade. 86cj is right.
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Unread 05-12-2012, 04:07 PM   #55
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I am sorry for the confusion, it must be worse for you since the jeep is not in front of you, I will double check the 10* and manifold vacuum, So just cap off the 3 or so other ports(CTO), and cap off the egr, even the pcv port at base of carb? And I will continue with the ignition upgrade.

Thanks
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Unread 05-12-2012, 04:19 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kovic View Post
I am sorry for the confusion, it must be worse for you since the jeep is not in front of you, I will double check the 10* and manifold vacuum, So just cap off the 3 or so other ports, and cap off the egr? And I will continue with the ignition upgrade.

Thanks
Yes. Cap off everything from the carb and run the distributor to manifold vacuum and the PCV to the port on the adaptor plates. That's it. I'm curious to see what happens or what others have to say.

Set the timing to 10* initial advance with the vacuum line removed and the port plugged. Then plug it back in to manifold vacuum and leave her be. From there, set the idle to, like mcmud said, no more than 1 maybe 2 inches at the very most of vacuum seen at the s port or like 600 rpm or so, which ever comes first.

Then take the mixture screw back out to three turns and start slowly working your way back in. It might be handy info to know at what point you barely started to get that random "poof" from the exhaust.

You're basically just removing the unknown vacuum stuff and its routing and starting over with the timing, idle speed and lean-best.

Fingers crossed...


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Unread 05-12-2012, 05:21 PM   #57
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Ok...well I got more stupid retarted news......

Set it to 10* timing, with vacuum advance unplugged and manifold nipple plugged. Put that back then got the idle in 1 1/2 with no vacuum at port, my guess is it was around 600 rpms, tac broke......

Had the mixture screw out 3 to start but had to quickly turn it in 3/4th or so turns so the thing would run.

Never got the exhaust to stop popping, or engine to run smooth.

The very best I could get it was with the mixture screw out....wait for it.....wait for it.....1 1/4 turns

sorry for that news.......
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Unread 05-12-2012, 05:49 PM   #58
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That popping is why I wonder if there isn't a cylinder trying to drop out. You may find it with the temp gun. I don't recall a symptom of a bad carb causing popping out the exhaust at all. Shy of putting on a known good carb it seems like you covered all the carb bases more then once. When nothing makes sense.........either do what doesn't make sense, or try something different.

This issue may not be carb related at all. Could be fouled plug or two. Or a compression check to see if something isn't up mechanically. Like a rocker support or what not. I know.....it's a fresh motor. But..............

Do you have fresh plugs? and pull the cap and rotor and spray clean and emery cloth the rotor nose and center pivot real good.

My brother and I had fouled plugs in my old police car and we replaced distributers, carbs, wires because it would try and run. Put fresh plugs in it and it purred. Initial problem was letting someone borrow it and the choke stayed shut. Fixed the choke and chased our tail for 2 days.
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Unread 05-12-2012, 06:44 PM   #59
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Yea, I physically felt if there was a cylinder that felt hotter than the others, dont have a heat gun. And its not so much a popping but a thudding, and the engine kind of shakes, Yesterday with carb adjustment I was able to get rid of the popping so I dont know what happened today.....But ill team rush it tomorrow and see what goes down.

Thanks
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Unread 05-12-2012, 07:00 PM   #60
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A dropped cylinder will have a off tone to the exhaust. I think your dropping a cylinder and the pop is it coming back to life.

But saying that, your idle would be all over the place. I've dealt with the 86 and dropping cylinders. But in the 86 case it was 2 of them from broken pistons and worn bores due to years of unfiltered air.

I know you'll be surprised when I tell you the clean side of her air cleaner was rusted threw. Imagine that, jeeps with rust.

Edit: I would have been looking for a cylinder that was colder then the others unless you had a typo.
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