How Do I? Remove the Rear Exhaust Manifold Bolts - JeepForum.com
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Unread 03-16-2015, 03:02 PM   #1
aaronjwood
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How Do I? Remove the Rear Exhaust Manifold Bolts

Hello All,

My 78 CJ7 has developed an exhaust leak at the rear of the passenger side exhaust manifold. The ticking has been annoying the crap out of me so today I decided to look into what it would take to replace the gasket. My CJ has an AMC 360 V8 and I don't see any way to remove the rear manifold bolt without pulling the engine or at least shifting it forward. I'm not sure what type of manifolds I have, but they do not have studs. All of the hardware connecting the manifold to the heads are bolts. It looks like the PO had difficulty with this very issue because the passenger side rear manifold bolt doesn't even look like it's screwed all the way in. I can get a 1/2" box end wrench on the bolt, but the small amount of play in the wrench/bolt head interface won't even allow me to put pressure on the bolt with the amount of space I have to work with. I don't have a 1/2" swivel socket, but I am skeptical of there even being enough room for it to work. Has anyone successfully removed the manifolds without having to move the engine forward? If so, please give me some pointers.

All help is greatly appreciated.

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Unread 03-16-2015, 03:12 PM   #2
walkerhoundvm
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It's kind of a pain but you could disconnect all of the bolts connecting the transmission to the skid plate, then slowly jack up the transmission/transfer case - which in turn tilts the engine ever so slightly forward. Be very careful of impaling the fan into the radiator, though.
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Unread 03-16-2015, 03:36 PM   #3
aaronjwood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walkerhoundvm View Post
It's kind of a pain but you could disconnect all of the bolts connecting the transmission to the skid plate, then slowly jack up the transmission/transfer case - which in turn tilts the engine ever so slightly forward. Be very careful of impaling the fan into the radiator, though.
@walkerhoundvm, thanks for the idea. I did see this suggested somewhere else, but the guy never posted whether or not he successfully did it. Have you used this method on a 360 in a CJ?
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Unread 03-16-2015, 03:57 PM   #4
walkerhoundvm
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I have not, but I have used it on a 258 - I read it could be used to reach the rear valve cover bolt on that engine, and though I've never needed it for that I have had the opportunity to remove my transmission once or twice - and have seen that cocking that up or down can make that rear bolt more accessible.
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Unread 03-16-2015, 03:59 PM   #5
Matt1981CJ7
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I installed both of my factory 360 exhaust manifolds with the engine in place.

IIRC, I had to tighten the bolt you're talking about from the bottom side.

Matt
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Unread 03-16-2015, 04:05 PM   #6
walkerhoundvm
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^^Matt's bound to be more knowledgeable than I on the subject^^
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Unread 03-16-2015, 06:51 PM   #7
aaronjwood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
I installed both of my factory 360 exhaust manifolds with the engine in place.

IIRC, I had to tighten the bolt you're talking about from the bottom side.

Matt
@Matt1981CJ7, what tool did you use to tighten from below? I removed the exhaust pipe from the manifold and tried to get every tool I had up there on the the bolt. I finally reached up and put a 1/2" socket on it and twisted just to see how much play there was. Guess what? i was able to remove it with just a small amount of finger pressure. I couldn't even get a good grip on the socket, but was still able to remove it. Although this solves the "removing" issue (and obviously was the reason I had an exhaust leak), I also now know that the PO couldn't figure out how to tighten this bolt. Hopefully you can shed some light on this with your tool selection.

--Aaron
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Unread 03-17-2015, 07:41 AM   #8
Matt1981CJ7
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Aaron,

It sounds like your engine may be mounted with too much angle.

Do you have a t-case drop, or a aftermarket trans mount?

How much space is there between the rear of your valve covers and the firewall?

Matt
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Unread 03-17-2015, 08:54 AM   #9
Mike Romain
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Some folks have been known to drill a hole in the inner fender so they can get at the back parts of tight V8's through the wheel well...
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Unread 03-17-2015, 02:13 PM   #10
roadhog304
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I need to go out and look at mine. I have had mine off twice and I do not remember having any problem getting the them off. Op what is in the way? Mine are all bolts and no studs. I need to take them off again to refinish them yet again . I had them hi temp power coated and that did not last either.
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Unread 03-17-2015, 02:26 PM   #11
82JeepCJ7
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Mine is installed with bolts as well. Used anti-seize on all bolts.

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Unread 03-18-2015, 05:01 PM   #12
aaronjwood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Aaron,

It sounds like your engine may be mounted with too much angle.

Do you have a t-case drop, or a aftermarket trans mount?

How much space is there between the rear of your valve covers and the firewall?

Matt
The PO did a 1" body lift and a 2" suspension lift (I think). He also dropped the skid plate/t-case by 1.5". I only have about 1" between the rear of my valve cover and the firewall. I have attached a link to the pics.

http://www.dropbox.com/sc/cbunj9m6rf...VF2iUwsKpmr_2a
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Unread 03-18-2015, 05:02 PM   #13
aaronjwood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7 View Post
Mine is installed with bolts as well. Used anti-seize on all bolts.

Where did you find the bell washers?
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Unread 03-18-2015, 05:45 PM   #14
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronjwood View Post
The PO did a 1" body lift and a 2" suspension lift (I think). He also dropped the skid plate/t-case by 1.5". I only have about 1" between the rear of my valve cover and the firewall. I have attached a link to the pics.
I'm betting that's your problem.

The I.5" t-case drop has dropped your engine downward towards the rear too much. This closes the gap between the engine and the firewall, and creates no room to tighten the bolt. The body lift probably isn't doing you any favors either.

I'm not sure why the PO did the t-case drop with only a 2" lift. Generally that's not needed for the shorter lifts. I run a 2.5" lift without one.

If I were you, I'd get rid of the the t-case drop. That should level your engine enough to access everything.

Matt
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Unread 03-18-2015, 06:11 PM   #15
aaronjwood
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I made a little tool that will allow me to use a ratchet wrench with a socket. Hopefully that will allow me to tighten it. If not, I will remove the t-case spacers. I am concerned that the fan will hit the shroud if I do. It is pretty close as-is. I will keep you posted.
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