How do I remove/install the CJ rear seat? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 20 Old 12-19-2011, 06:01 AM Thread Starter
aBoyAndHisCJ
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How do I remove/install the CJ rear seat?

I see two bolts going through the front two brackets into the floor, and then I also see 3 bolts into a long angle bracket (which the seat belts are attached to) in the rear— but before simply unbolting everything I see, I wanted to know if there's more to it from someone who's done it already. For instance, is there anything that needs to be done underneath the tub (I hope not, because the middle rear bolt is directly above the gas tank)? Does one unbolt the seat from the front two brackets, or the front two brackets from the floor? I'll be installing a Rugged Ridge aftermarket rear seat which has no hardware included. This is a 1978 CJ-7. Thanks!


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post #2 of 20 Old 12-19-2011, 06:23 AM
Renegade82
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Nope, that's all there is to mine, 5 bolts and lift 'er out. All the nuts are welded to the body.

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post #3 of 20 Old 12-19-2011, 07:44 AM
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You may want to hit them all with some WD-40 or PB Blaster to losen them up.

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post #4 of 20 Old 12-19-2011, 08:14 AM
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All of the nuts SHOULD be welded to the body but in my case I guess they broke loose for the PO because now they have nuts on the backside. So now I need two people to take the rear seat out. Just something to keep in mind on these old vehicles, you never know what somebody did before you.

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post #5 of 20 Old 12-19-2011, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
aBoyAndHisCJ
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Hi guys, a problem— I broke the head off of the bolt in the front one. The shank is still in the welded nut on the bottom of the body, which will surely prevent any new seat from being bolted in. What now? An extractor? The head of the bolts work loose with a 5/8 socket, so I guess that means the shank is 3/8 diameter. Any hope for using an extractor for this, or am I basically just (wait for it...) screwed?

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post #6 of 20 Old 12-20-2011, 12:40 AM
MoC
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If you pull the seat is there any bolt shaft sticking up? If so try lots of heat then vise grips. If its sticking up another option if you have access to a welder is to weld nut to it just to try to get it out. Yet another option if you have a welder would be to hit it with a 5 lbs mallet and try to knock the bolt that is welded to the bottom of the tub off. Then reinstall the seat and tack the new bolt to the tub. You could also just cut the bolt off the bottom of the tub with a cut off wheel.

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post #7 of 20 Old 12-20-2011, 12:50 AM
I6CJ7
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Lots of PB blaster or WD40!

Since Its one of the front seat bolts you may be able to go underneath and try turning the bolt from thr bottom if enough threads are exposed, you could also try double nutting it, put one nut on the threads... then another one, and tighten that one against the first... then take a wrench, and put it on the first nut and taking it out from the bottom, or at least you can work it loose.
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post #8 of 20 Old 12-20-2011, 12:56 AM
JeepnBlake
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The best thing I ever had luck with for stuck on bolts was welding a nut on it. Since you have some of the threads exposed on the bottom, thread a nut onto it. Then weld the nut to the shank of the bolt securely then just back the bolt out through the bottom of the tub.
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post #9 of 20 Old 12-20-2011, 05:30 AM
waterdowg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I6CJ7 View Post
Lots of PB blaster or WD40!

Since Its one of the front seat bolts you may be able to go underneath and try turning the bolt from thr bottom if enough threads are exposed, you could also try double nutting it, put one nut on the threads... then another one, and tighten that one against the first... then take a wrench, and put it on the first nut and taking it out from the bottom, or at least you can work it loose.
If you don't have a welder try this option as I6CJ7 suggests. Although I would add heat to the this as well. You can use a regular propane tourch from Home Depot or Lowes.

Once you have the nuts on the bolts. Bolt and nut area until red hot then try to remove the bolt.
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post #10 of 20 Old 12-20-2011, 05:37 AM
ILoveMyJeep1996
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When you put the new seat in I would recommend putting gaskets under the new seat to reduce road noise.

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post #11 of 20 Old 12-20-2011, 05:47 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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Broken bolts have been my curse the last few weeks, so I've had plenty of experience extracting them. 4 of the 12 bolts that held my roll bar in place snapped when I tried to remove them.

All of the methods above may work, or they may not. In my case, welding a nut on the backside worked on two of the bolts. But, the other two just snapped off, again, leaving me with a chunk of bolt broken flush on both sides. On these, I had to drill progressively larger holes thru the broken bolt, then re-tap the treads.

Just don't get frustrated and do something that makes matters worse. If you do have to drill the broken bolt out, start out with say a 1/8" bit for a pilot hole. Try to center the pilot hole in the bolt. Then switch to a little larger bit, say 3/16", and run that thru. I think the seat bolts are 3/8" diameter, so you want the final hole to be about 5/16". Finally, run a 3/8" tap, with the correct thread count, thru the hole and you'll be back in business.

Hope this helps,

Matt
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post #12 of 20 Old 12-20-2011, 06:21 AM
DesertDweller
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Removing the most stubborn broken bolts for me has usually involved heat and large vice grips with a good bite. Oxy/Acetylene with a small tip is best if you have it (or know an A/C tech with one) for more heat on a smaller area, or mapp gas which is hotter than propane and is used just the same. I just heat the nut 'til it starts to turn red then start turning the bolt with the vice grips. Works great. Good Luck.
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post #13 of 20 Old 12-20-2011, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
aBoyAndHisCJ
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Firstly, I'd just like to report that I summarily, after the post where I broke the first bolt, proceeded and methodically broke each of the four remaining bolts— that's right, I broke ALL FIVE BOLTS holding my rear seat to the tub. Applying perfectly perpendicular torque, I still broke 100% of them. My Jeep is old, man.

I'd also like to say just as a general mechanical note, that each broken bolt gave the unique opportunity to see how NONE of the WD-40/PB Blaster etc. which we spray so superstitiously is able to penetrate some of the tougher applications which we purchase it hoping to use it for. Each space between bolt shank & broken head, now visible, was bone dry and rust-caked, & this after soaking excessively with WD-40, using the straw to spray in all the crevices, letting it 'penetrate' for hours, etc.

Blake, welding an 'inverse head' on the under side is a great idea, but what do you guys think about welding near the gas tank? I'm more than a bit skeptical of that...

MoC, nope, no bolt shank sticking up— I pretty much sheared the head off of each and every one. Here's what I'm going to do: since the threading between the broken bolt & the nut is actually accessible to spray lubricant now, I'll spray WD-40 down the shafts and then try Vise-Grips from underneath since you can see they all stick out pretty far beneath the tub; if it works, then I'll be able to bolt the new seat in at the four corners, which should be good enough, and forgo the middle 5th bolt of the set of 3 bolts in the rear since it's not accessible without removing the gas tank. Then, if that doesn't work, I'll try extractors. Then, if that doesn't work, the last resort is welding on a nut on the underside. Thanks guys— I'll let you know how it goes.

The problem with Jeeps is that everyone fancies himself some kind of Adventurer after he buys one. As if courage, or ruggedness, can be had for a mere $27,745 MSRP
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post #14 of 20 Old 12-20-2011, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
aBoyAndHisCJ
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@Matt— thanks for the tech specifics of using extractors for this— I feel that's what it's going to come to. I know my Jeep, & she doesn't really give anything on the underside which is OE from '78 up to regular torque, using regular tools. Installing my lift & new suspension involved a lot of tools of destruction, BFH, cutting things permanently, etc. So we'll see.

@ILoveMyJeep— reducing road noise? LOL

Let's see, 35" tires— check. Holy floorpan— check. Straight pipe, no muffler— check. Original 1978 steel body with various aged structures which basically functions as a resonator chamber for the straight six— check. Manual transmission which I gun whenever the inclination so strikes me or whenever someone in a cozy 4-door JK minivan with a painstakingly-detailed glossy spare on the back pulls up— check. If only a lil' gasket had a prayer of 'reducing road noise.' Haha I don't mind it at all though, it's really a part of my machine. When the Jeep is talking, everyone else kinda gets quiet.

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post #15 of 20 Old 12-20-2011, 04:22 PM
I6CJ7
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Man... you are chipper about breaking all five off... id woulda pulled my hair out!
Make sure when your able to get them sum b!tches out and get some new grade 8 bolts in slather never-seize all over them!
If you can try the double nutting method on the underside, or out one nut on and tack weld it all around then use an impact gun and zing them out. Just use a bolt extractor for the 5th one above gas tank. I wouldn't be too worried about welding near the tank, just put up a welding blanket with bungees to block any sparks or slag. Ive used the flame wrench near the tank when gettin an old bumper off... but I wouldn't recommend that again.
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