[jeepfanatic]

This is driving me crazy! I wanna know if it's possible to fit 33's under my CJ7 without spending a lot of cash? I've been told to fit 33's under it with spring over would require drive line work, brake hose lengths re-done, different steering components, etc.... I want max flex, and have been told this is easier with SOA set-ups. When it comes to SUA set-ups I've been told 4.5" min to fit 33's and most of those kit's require the same mods as an SOA, and I wont get the same flex. Is there a cheap way to build a CJ to run 33's and still get me over some rocks?

[Rezneck]

Well, sawzall makes it possible.

[jeepfanatic]

I've thought about just cutting fenders up, but I still want some lift to go with that. I got some great ideas from some guys about fitting TJ flares on my rig, I still plan on running them in the rear. The front I don't wanna cut to much out of, but I'm not sure I like the TJ flares so I'm still in the air...

[jeepfanatic]

I was just looking at TJFANS thread and I'm looking for the same thing I just wanna know the best bang for the buck method... I'm not a fan of body lifts with this jeep do to the amount of rust in the body, I think a body lift would just be a major headache! LOL

[Mike Romain]

I run 33x9.5 BFG mud's with a 2.5" OEM spring arch and replacement keeper spring with a further 1/2" lift from YJ shackles.

I have no issues as you may be able to see in my photo albums. Remember I am already there taking photos of the folks trying to get there....

[jeepskate]

What do you consider 'a lot of cash'? You've gotta pay to play to some extent and what you lack in cash you'll have to make up for in knowledge and fabrication ability.

[SuB8HaVeN]

Yeh, it depends on what width of tire you want to run. If you get 33x9.5x15s, they tuck under your fender so you're not going to rub even with only a 1-2" lift. I ran some BFG AT 33x9.5s at one time with only a 2" lift, and they didn't rub at all, even in the front turned lock to lock. The 33x11.5 or wider will require a bit more lift in the 4" range.

[Indy]

Comp cuts/flat fender would be the cheapest method. I think I've got room for 35's with my cut cj5 and 1" ranch springs.

[John Strenk]

My 33's 12.5 stuff the wheel well on my cj5 with a setup like Mikes. But I have Narrow track axles also so if I went with wide tracks, they would rub a lot.

[BESRK]

I'm running 33s with 4" YJ springs SUA. I just let the rear tires "self-clearance" the fenders...

[Redmanchew]

I have 2.5 RC lift and a little, meaning whatever WP warrior is on thier HD shackles, i think 3/4 tops. I'm running 33x10.5 on 8" rims with 4" Back space stock pittman arm.. I leave my sway bar hooked up on the trail so the front dose not hit anything and i need to do a little trim on the back flares beacuse under full stuff i catch the body. But that could be done with a set of YJ/TJ flares if you wanted and not have to worry. As far as brake lines if yours are more then 10 years old might as well replace them and go for a little longer ones... Nothing says pucker like going down a steep hill on the trail and having a brake line explode.

This will also defer some of your "lift cost" to the "brake improvement" ledger and make it more acceptable to the accountant since the "brake improvment" ledger has a big red "SAFTEY" on the front and the "Lift" ledger has "Fun" on it.

[PavementPounder]

SOA for 33's is overkill.

4" SUA springs and a small shackle lift or a 1" (max) body lift should be fine. Just don't buy AAL's, or a crappy brand of lift. BDS or RE will ususally come in over the advertised height, too.

[Rob55]

I purchased my rig with a 2.5" RE lift and a 1" body lift running 32" tires and never had a problem. Currently running 35" tires with a 4.5" RE lift and a 1" body lift, with no problems (I have to admit I don't work the suspension as hard as some might though - I do the Rubicon once a year and that is probably the hardest wheeling I do). But one more thing to consider is the additional weight you are building into the rig. I have added close to 1000lbs with bumpers, spare, winch, cage, sliders, skids, extra fuel, etc and as I measured the "sag" I lost (clearance) about 1" in the rear, 1.5" in the front from before adding stuff. Hope that helps.

[01TJCRAWLER]

Originally Posted by jeepfanatic

This is driving me crazy! I wanna know if it's possible to fit 33's under my CJ7 without spending a lot of cash? I've been told to fit 33's under it with spring over would require drive line work, brake hose lengths re-done, different steering components, etc.... I want max flex, and have been told this is easier with SOA set-ups. When it comes to SUA set-ups I've been told 4.5" min to fit 33's and most of those kit's require the same mods as an SOA, and I wont get the same flex. Is there a cheap way to build a CJ to run 33's and still get me over some rocks?

teraflex 2" lift....springs,shocks,quick disconnects and the bump stops extensions that came with the kit. 33/12.50/15 maxxis bighorns and they will stuff all day long with about 1/4" clearance @ the bottom of the wheel flare and drop all the way out till the spring comes unseated about 1"from it's pad.


not bad if you ask me for a $600.00 complete lift kit.

[jeepfanatic]

Originally Posted by 01TJCRAWLER

teraflex 2" lift....springs,shocks,quick disconnects and the bump stops extensions that came with the kit. 33/12.50/15 maxxis bighorns and they will stuff all day long with about 1/4" clearance @ the bottom of the wheel flare and drop all the way out till the spring comes unseated about 1"from it's pad.


not bad if you ask me for a $600.00 complete lift kit.

Does this require a longer drive shaft, and drop pitman?