for anyone following this thread - yes it can. And going from a manual brake set up to this hydroboost was an EASY install but for the difficulty in removing the 30 year old hard lines from the proportioning valve. But once done, the rest is easy....! So far at least.!!! Thanks (COAS ANDALL THE OTHERS I HAVE FOLLOWED) for your help and advice(s).
I bought the mustang spacer from partsmike. Make sure you get the central hole. Not the offset one. Then go to vanco and buy the pressure hose kit currently $175. Have some hard lines made with the mustang ends at one end and the cj proportioning at the other. That cost me $25. Nothing was welded, threaded, tapped or otherwise changed.
A YJ booster bracket works fine too...for the astro booster, not sure about the mustang units. All that had to be done was elongate two of the booster mounting holes. Then just bought a 4" coupler nut from mcmastercarr and cut to appropriate length to extend the pushrod. Done!
Taking the plunge and removing what uou have is 89% of the battle. I had hard lines made for me. No fabbing anything else. I truly feel its a new car!
Was wondering on the mustang hydroboost.... There are 2 types of mustang hydroboost:
The 99+ GT boost unit that has an angle master cylinder mount
The older style 96-98 that is a vertical master cylinder mount.
Now, there are also 2 types of master cylinders for these:
The 99+ mc that has an angle mount and I think is 1 1/16 bore
The older style 96-98 mc that is a vertical mount and 1" bore
Can I use the 1" bore master on both units? Does the 1" straight mc hit the accumulator on the 99+ booster? Seems like it would.. To me, the 99+ boost unit looks like it has a bigger/longer accumulator...
Lastly, I think I NEED to use the 1" on a disk/drum setup or does that not matter with the hydroboost?
It only hurts while you're breathing..
I would think the larger bore would be more ideal. The larger the master cylinder piston area, the more fluid is pushed for better power at the slave end (each wheel cylinder or caliper). This would mean less effort for more braking power.
1978 CJ5 5.0HO/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass body, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy
Okay, I did find out some basic differences, just not sure which one is best for a stock type CJ7 with disk/drum setup.. 96-98 mustang V8 hydroboost: Vertical MC with 1" bore Shorter accumulator 99-04 mustang V8 hydroboost: Canted MC with various bores.. 1", 1.062", 1 1/16", and 1 5/8" bores Longer accumulator, looks like the 96-98 master cylinder will not fit without hitting it.
Well i have a partsmike fender wall adapter and a sloping m/c, horizontal accumulator. Stops on dime. Not sure of bore but 35's lock with ease.
If the parts mike adapter is the same as that used by WFO Concepts; you need to remove the nut on the mounting shaft, remove the factory mounting plate, put on the CJ plate, and tighten up the nut. Nothing to it. Now shortening the push rod, that can be another issue.