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Unread 12-06-2008, 06:57 PM   #1
CJman77
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How to Build a Hyrdroboost brake system?

Okay so i want a hydro boost brake system. I am not really crazy about digging one out of a yard. Not very thrilled about yunkyard brake parts. But please let me know opinions on this! And I dont really want to pay 500 or more for these aftermarket kits. So... I was thinking is it possible to buy the parts from auto zone or napa or whoever from like a 87 gmc diesel van etc. And then piece it together and adapt it for the jeep. Let me know I just want to do hydroboost over a vaccum system. I like the idea of better stoping power! Thanks All

Brian

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Unread 12-06-2008, 09:27 PM   #2
slacker92104
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I ordered one from ebay and it has been fine. It was used, from a chevy astro van. I built my own bracket to adapt it to the firewall and to space it correctly for the pushrod (rather than trimming the rod). I bent up a couple brake lines, and flared them to use the fitting I wanted to adapt to the stock jeep lines, but you may not have to if you already have power brakes. It will be a little bit of a stretch to make the manual lines plug in though. I did look into getting a remanufactured one from an auto store, but there is some debate on whether a rebuild is worth it or not. The used on I got for about $100, so I was willing to take the risk, and have been very happy so far. Any other questions, you can send me a PM.
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Unread 12-07-2008, 12:10 AM   #3
coas
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Get a unit out of an 80's Cadillac Eldorado diesel, these will fit on the stock CJ master cylinder, the pushrod length and shape is right.. A rebuilt one will cost about 140$. A rebuild by Bendix is good as new, Bendix developed the HB and where holding the patents on this until it was sold to Bosch.

Mounting bracket from PartsMike, ~40$, and custom made hydraulic line. you should end up under 250$.







Custom made lines using stock CJ power steering hose ends:



You'll also need a T fitting for the return line (3/8 fuel hose will do):


And an inline hydraulic filter:

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Last edited by coas; 12-07-2008 at 12:59 AM..
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Unread 12-07-2008, 12:17 AM   #4
HackFabrication
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJman77 View Post
...I dont really want to pay 500 or more for these aftermarket kits. So... I was thinking is it possible to buy the parts from auto zone or napa or whoever from like a 87 gmc diesel van etc. And then piece it together and adapt it for the jeep.
Since you don't want to use JY parts: I think by the time you go to AZ, NAPA, P-Boys, etc., and pay for reman'd parts, piece it all together, do some additional running around looking for 'that last part': You'd be better off spending the additional money up front and getting a hydroboost kit from Vanco. Yeah, it's probaby more money, but what sort of assistance are you going to get from any of the auto parts places, when you've got a question? If you haven't experienced the blank stares when you tell them you need a part for a 1976 Jeep CJ that has an engine from a 93 Mustang, a transmission from an 83 F-350, and powersteering from Wild Horses.... You'll soon get it when you go asking for help.

Just my opinion, but my time is worth a lot to me. And I don't live near a wide assortment of wrecking yards, so driving around a three county area isn't in the picture. And: I'm bias because I have one from Vanco:




If you chose to go the other route, also look into the Mustang setup that a few of the regulars on this forum are running.
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Unread 12-07-2008, 08:59 AM   #5
CJman77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coas View Post
Get a unit out of an 80's Cadillac Eldorado diesel, these will fit on the stock CJ master cylinder, the pushrod length and shape is right.. A rebuilt one will cost about 140$. A rebuild by Bendix is good as new, Bendix developed the HB and where holding the patents on this until it was sold to Bosch.

Mounting bracket from PartsMike, ~40$, and custom made hydraulic line. you should end up under 250$.







Custom made lines using stock CJ power steering hose ends:



You'll also need a T fitting for the return line (3/8 fuel hose will do):


And an inline hydraulic filter:

Do you need any kind of proportioning valve?
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Unread 12-07-2008, 09:42 AM   #6
coas
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With the above setup you don't need changing proportioning valve, from the master cylinder and on to the brake everything is stock, so the pressure distribution is the same as it was with vacuum brake. Only the pressure boosting is changed.
In the 3 CJ8 that I helped installing such a setup it's working at least as good as one of the aftermarket kits.

I'm using Mustang hydroboost and MC and it's also working perfectly with the stock proportioning valve.
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Unread 12-07-2008, 10:48 AM   #7
CJman77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coas View Post
With the above setup you don't need changing proportioning valve, from the master cylinder and on to the brake everything is stock, so the pressure distribution is the same as it was with vacuum brake. Only the pressure boosting is changed.
In the 3 CJ8 that I helped installing such a setup it's working at least as good as one of the aftermarket kits.

I'm using Mustang hydroboost and MC and it's also working perfectly with the stock proportioning valve.
I only had manual brakes. So I had no vaccum boost. I am guessing my pro valve wont work with this set up?
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Unread 12-07-2008, 10:53 AM   #8
gojeepin
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Your proportioning valve will work... the only difference is how (how much) pressure is applied to the master cylinder not what comes out of it.
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Unread 12-07-2008, 11:24 AM   #9
coas
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As far as I know the proportioning valve is the same with or without vacuum booster. My CJ didn't had a vacuum booster and I'm still using the stock proportioning valve.

Since you have a manual brake you'll need a stock CJ, vacuum brake, master cylinder.
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Last edited by coas; 12-07-2008 at 11:37 AM..
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Unread 12-07-2008, 01:55 PM   #10
CJman77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coas View Post
As far as I know the proportioning valve is the same with or without vacuum booster. My CJ didn't had a vacuum booster and I'm still using the stock proportioning valve.

Since you have a manual brake you'll need a stock CJ, vacuum brake, master cylinder.
Your commas are throwing me off. I need a cj master cylinder for a model with vaccum brakes?
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Unread 12-07-2008, 02:00 PM   #11
coas
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Yes, the master cylinder off manual brake setup will not work, the pushrod is not removable and the diameter, bore, is too small.
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Unread 03-05-2009, 08:08 AM   #12
NMjeepguy
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A master cylinder from a 1997 Astro Van will also work. It is a direct bolt on replacement for a 1986 CJ-7 with Vacuum brakes. Only difference being the Astro's is aluminum with plastic resivours. Line connections, throw lengths, and flange is identical. Personally, I do not like the cast iron cylinders that came on the CJ's, because the caps always tend to weep.
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Unread 03-05-2009, 08:35 AM   #13
CJman77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMjeepguy View Post
A master cylinder from a 1997 Astro Van will also work. It is a direct bolt on replacement for a 1986 CJ-7 with Vacuum brakes. Only difference being the Astro's is aluminum with plastic resivours. Line connections, throw lengths, and flange is identical. Personally, I do not like the cast iron cylinders that came on the CJ's, because the caps always tend to weep.
My Cj is a 77 so I don't believe I have vaccum brakes. But I do like the idea of the aluminum one..
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Unread 04-07-2012, 09:32 AM   #14
billybooster2
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So am I right in thinking that the ONLY thing(s) to do is get a unit from a mid 90's Mustang, get a Parts Mike adapter, a T fitting, hoses to suit the different fixtures, change/alter my hard lines (manual brakes right now) and plug it all in? Do I need to drill holes in the steering gear? Tap it? Or is this system all I need? Finally, where does the inline filter go and what is it filtering? Is the rod length that pokes through the firewall the right length or does it need cutting down/threading etc? Thanks!!
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Unread 04-07-2012, 03:30 PM   #15
Jack61
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I did the same thing a couple of years ago, got a hydroboost unit off ebay for $100. The one thing I'd like to add is get a unit that has the nitrogen charged canister on it because if your engine dies a a inopportune time you will still have a couple of assisted stops left.
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