How about this set up?

elks96 · 04-10-2008, 07:20 PM

I had ordered the RE 2.5 lift with intentions of running a 33 or 32 inch tire. Well I founf the TSl 34x9.5 through a guy for $125 each a set of 4 shipped. He had them for a little under a year but they are brand new never mounted, layed around garage as he found a set of 35s for cheap before mounting theese. Well Now I have a taller tire then the lift I intended.

If I did a 1.5 inche body lift would I be able to the the 34s? Or should I go with a shackle lift of sorts? Or a little of both?

Thanks for anythoughts! Will I need to worry about angles at all?

elks96 · 04-10-2008, 08:36 PM

So can I make it work with a little body and shackle addition? A guy in town is running 35s on a 2.5, but his is stiff and does not seem to flex much.

Again thanks for any help/thoughts.

Bard · 04-10-2008, 08:50 PM

I ran a set of 34's with a shackle lift (not sure of the size, but still have the original shackles somewhere) and 2" add a leafs, only rubbed when I flexed really hard, drive lines were good, never issues unless i tromped the throttle when stuck when brand new tires were on it. after thought, could have been a bad u joint.

I still run the 34's with SOA, I just like em' tall and skinny.

$125 per tire isn't bad even used, ( considering they are up to $170 new) make sure you check them for depth, (I think they should be 27/32 new), check even wear. (I have a new one, so I can snap a shot with a quarter against the lug for reference) They are bias ply, so they will need to be rotated and balanced more than any other to get the maximum life out of them.

JeepnBlake · 04-10-2008, 08:52 PM

do suspension stuff, when you do body lifts you can have linkage problems, not to mention you're just that much further off the center of gravity...

i run 32's with a 4inch lift, regular body mounts

elks96 · 04-10-2008, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bard

I ran a set of 34's with a shackle lift (not sure of the size, but still have the original shackles somewhere) and 2" add a leafs, only rubbed when I flexed really hard, drive lines were good, never issues unless i tromped the throttle when stuck when brand new tires were on it. after thought, could have been a bad u joint.

I still run the 34's with SOA, I just like em' tall and skinny.

$125 per tire isn't bad even used, ( considering they are up to $170 new) make sure you check them for depth, (I think they should be 27/32 new), check even wear. (I have a new one, so I can snap a shot with a quarter against the lug for reference) They are bias ply, so they will need to be rotated and balanced more than any other to get the maximum life out of them.

BArd TY for the offer. They actually have the little nubs on the lugs still. The actually original packlist was shrink wrapped to teh tire and everything. Again tehy are brand new. Despite A little dust they look like they are from the factory.

CJClyde · 04-10-2008, 10:09 PM

What about a 1/2 inch lift greasable shackle to start with. If that doesn't do the trick, then you could decide on a 1 or 2 inch body lift. I know body lift are not very popular on this forum, but I have one on several different vehicles and never had any problems with them. My dad had a cj8 with a 3 inch body lift and the 34 x 9.5 swampers. It was used on the road and mud with no problems at all. Those are great tires. Congrats. Hope that helps.

Duble-it · 04-10-2008, 10:21 PM

I agree with jeepnblake. you might be fine on the road but once off road and flexed it would be a bad time to have a linkage issue. Shackles would be my second choice ahead of body lift.

estringdave · 04-10-2008, 11:25 PM

A body lift is easy to install, but a pain after that. I did a 1" body lift just to get my new radiator off of the steering box. Then I had to take out the clutch rod and bend it in the vise to get it centered in the firewall hole.

And then, I had to ditch the transfer case shifter boot and make my own from a piece of 1/4" rubber with a slice down the middle, otherwise it would pop out of low range all the time. It was that or carve out the floor to make more room.

Also, the steering shaft likes to bind up. Scary! I've got a Flaming River unit on the way, which is a good thing to have anyway, but man, does it ever end?

The good news is that 32X11.50s fit with no lift and no problems.

Jayson44 · 04-11-2008, 09:06 AM

a friend of mine is running 35's on his cj5 with a 3.5" BDS lift and waggy axles. he's not trimmed any fenders yet either. I think the axles being wider has a lot to do with being able to stuff those 35's with such a small lift. if you're running the stock width axles, I'm thinking you'll have some fender rubbage...but then again, try it and see!

J.

**aero mech** · 04-11-2008, 10:06 AM

If the 2.5 RE lift is in the same spirit as my 4.5 re lift you may get more that 2.5 inches of lift. I would install everthing, flex it out and if it wasn't enough then I would go with a 1 inch body lift. Remember a 1 inch lift is acutally the factory highth plus 1 inch. Just my .02. JC

CJClyde · 04-11-2008, 08:25 PM

Like I said earlier, there were no problems with the body lift on my dads scrambler. I also have several friends with 2 or 3 inch body lifts and have also had no problems. The bottom line is this: the body lift will give you more tire clearance for your dollar.

jayhawkclint · 04-12-2008, 10:24 AM

I believe this CJ5 has a 2.5" lift with 34x9.50 Swampers, bottom pic: http://www.earlycj5.com/gallery2/v/b...visay.jpg.html

goodolkell · 04-12-2008, 05:11 PM

something to keep in mind, the body lift is the cheapest way to clear bigger tires. But does not flex at all. It has its place as everything does (depends on who you ask) Personally I would spend the cash on springs( or possibly shackles) good luck