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Unread 01-04-2005, 08:13 PM   #1
txspaderz
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Hot Battery Cable

Ok, I replaced my distributor the other day, started it up, fired right up, and it misses. Enough to make it die when it Idles. So I put my old one back on and now it won't even start. When I try and start it, it cranks for a second, stops, cranks, stops. I think it might be the starter now, but I don't know. I also just noticed that my ground cable on my battery is hot to the touch. I practically burned a round ring into my palm from touching it. What could be the cause?

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1984 CJ 7
I6 258
31's on 15' Wagon Wheels
12000 Warn Winch (recently ripped apart hauling my jeep out of a mud hole)
T-176 Tranny, stock 4 Speed
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Unread 01-04-2005, 09:37 PM   #2
Jeep Daddy
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Okay. Sounds like you've got the distributor back in wrong. It's off a tooth or two. When your timing is that far off, it can cause pre detonation which is what you are describing when it cranks, stops, cranks, stops etc. The reason your battery cable is so hot is because you are putting a "huge load" on the starter trying to start it with the timing off so far. Pull the distributor and put it back in one tooth to the right and try it again. Or, try timing it by loosening the distributor and turning the distributor to the right about 30 degrees.
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Unread 01-05-2005, 10:49 AM   #3
txspaderz
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Ok I went out and checked it out, and I tried putting it in a couple of teeth to the right, but it would not set into the oil pump. I put it back in and it cranks fine, no more stoping and starting, but now it won't start. HELP, plz
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1984 CJ 7
I6 258
31's on 15' Wagon Wheels
12000 Warn Winch (recently ripped apart hauling my jeep out of a mud hole)
T-176 Tranny, stock 4 Speed
Cherry apple red
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Unread 01-05-2005, 01:25 PM   #4
Geer_hed
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Ok, so we can assume this didn't happen at all before you replaced the distributor? If so, JDaddy probably has it with the battery cable. The only thing you can make sure about is the cleanliness of connections between the cable and ground.

A couple of things with your distributor. You probably did f your timing with the distributor reinstall, maybe with the teeth, but also, you may have re-installed the spark plug wires out of order. Aside from these two things, the only other thing I can think of is a goofed p/u coil or some other Dizzy hardware failure, but the coincidental timing of these symptoms right after re-install is simply too much to over look.

1) Take your Dizzy cap off and make sure the rotor button is turning while someone else cranks the engine (or while you crank it by jumping the solenoid).
2) If yes, do a quick spark test. This is probably not your issue, but it's good to eliminate it now rather than later.
3) If spark, then you need to time your engine. You can try to statically time the engine since you have some serious doubt as to whether or not it's in time.
4) After you have done your best to ensure good timing, make sure your plug wires were installed on your dizzy in the correct order.



I'm guessing you'll find a timing problem among those tests....
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Unread 01-05-2005, 04:53 PM   #5
Jeep Daddy
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When you tried to move it a couple of teeth, you should have had someone crank the engine slowly until you feel the distributor drop into the oil pump slot. But since it sounds like you need to start over, here is what I'd do.

Take #1 plug out. Stick finger in plughole. Crank engine slowly - get someone to bump it. When you feel the compression at its greatest, (best guess is good), stop. Drop your distributor in with the rotor pointing as close to the direction of the #1 plug wire on the cap. It will probably be a little before, or after that wire. Most distributors have a helical cut gear and you may have to drop it down in a few times to get it the closest. Bump the engine until it drops down into the oil pump. Put the plug back in and try to start it. If the engine does the hard crank and stop thing, just turn the distributor clockwise a little and try again. If not, go the other way a little at a time.
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Unread 01-06-2005, 04:27 AM   #6
txspaderz
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Ok, I took off my valve cover, and got it to tdc, and I took a long screwdriver and turned the oil pump by hand so that the rotor was on cyl 1, and I dropped in the distributor, and the sucker fired right up. Timed it right, now she runs like a charm again. I appreciate all your help with this problem. ALso, I have heard of HEI distributors, and what do you think about them? are they worth the money?
__________________
1984 CJ 7
I6 258
31's on 15' Wagon Wheels
12000 Warn Winch (recently ripped apart hauling my jeep out of a mud hole)
T-176 Tranny, stock 4 Speed
Cherry apple red
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Unread 01-06-2005, 07:50 AM   #7
Jeep Daddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txspaderz
Ok, I took off my valve cover, and got it to tdc, and I took a long screwdriver and turned the oil pump by hand so that the rotor was on cyl 1, and I dropped in the distributor, and the sucker fired right up. Timed it right, now she runs like a charm again. I appreciate all your help with this problem. ALso, I have heard of HEI distributors, and what do you think about them? are they worth the money?
Glad you got it running. The way you did it is the more exact way of doing it, but it's more work than just getting it close and retiming it. Using a long screwdriver to position the oil pump is another way of doing it too. Glad you got that to work.

On the HEI: Sometimes my engine loads up and starts missing at idle when I put a continuous heavy load on it. I'm hoping that HEI will help. But, I'm going to wait until I pass my emissions testing before monkeying with it. I don't want to fail the vissual before they even put the sniffer in the tail pipe.
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