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post #16 of 51 Old 07-04-2013, 08:44 PM
adman02
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Here's one for $400, but it'll require some driving on your part (not my listing BTW)

http://greensboro.craigslist.org/cto/3908826397.html

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post #17 of 51 Old 07-04-2013, 08:57 PM
fuzz401
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any full size jeep and just about any AMC car might will have a 360 - 401 a little harder but they are out there

1978 cj-7 had since 1979
401 .030 over- full floating flat top pistons
crower solid cam 292 dur .500/.510 lift
turbo 400 tranny 2500 stall
model 20 transfer case
aj delux glass body
4" lift
dana 30 frount
dana 44 rear
4.56 gears
http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v...slideshow=true
http://photobucket.com/albums/v31/fu...slideshow=true
13.461 @ 92.45 mph on 37" super swampers on 1/4 mile
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post #18 of 51 Old 07-06-2013, 08:07 AM Thread Starter
LeePrather
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I found an amc 360 from a 80 wagoneer. Based on what I see the hp was restricted to 160 by all the emissions crap. Is there any way to remove anything to get it back to the early 70s hp numbers around 250hp without spending more than a grand?
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post #19 of 51 Old 07-06-2013, 08:36 AM
row684
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeePrather
I found an amc 360 from a 80 wagoneer. Based on what I see the hp was restricted to 160 by all the emissions crap. Is there any way to remove anything to get it back to the early 70s hp numbers around 250hp without spending more than a grand?
My 360 out of a 79 wasn't anything to laugh at stock except for an Edelbrock Performer intake and Holly 2 barrel carb. Stock size tires would burn out till the tires blew or it ran out of gas (most likely out of gas lol) it was also very fast to 55 mph. Much faster to 55 than my 6.0 GMC 2500 or 6.6 Chevy 2500 were. My GPS unit would say "0" "20 something," 60" skipping everything in between.
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post #20 of 51 Old 07-06-2013, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
LeePrather
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I have a 304 right now with 4 bbl Edelbrock and manifold and msd ignition setup...stock 304 is 150, stock 360 on an 80 is 160. I don't want to go backwards or sideways...I want to go up...100 hp
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post #21 of 51 Old 07-06-2013, 09:34 AM
fuzz401
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don't put a lot of faith in factory numbers they were there for the government

put a better cam in it u have a carb and intake already

from early 70's to the 80's were a larger chamber on the heads they went 50 cc to 58/60 cc pistons for compression and AMC dished there pistons to get to 8.5cr

1978 cj-7 had since 1979
401 .030 over- full floating flat top pistons
crower solid cam 292 dur .500/.510 lift
turbo 400 tranny 2500 stall
model 20 transfer case
aj delux glass body
4" lift
dana 30 frount
dana 44 rear
4.56 gears
http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v...slideshow=true
http://photobucket.com/albums/v31/fu...slideshow=true
13.461 @ 92.45 mph on 37" super swampers on 1/4 mile
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post #22 of 51 Old 07-06-2013, 09:58 AM
swatson454
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Here's how I'd go about it.

Set yourself up with a little porting station. A dremel with a flexible wand and a handful of grinding cones works pretty well.



Then just spend some time smoothing the bowls out and getting a nice transition from the bowl to the valve seat. You can skinny the guide boss down a little, too. I'm guessing the exhaust ports are terrible like any other OEM casting so spend some time there as well. The dremel finish is fine but they don't make for pretty pictures. Hopefully your heads don't look as bad as these, lol. There should be an easy 30 hp just in minor porting work.



Then I'd have Comp grind a cam using lobes from their Xtreme Energy profiles.

Intake lobe #5442 Advertised duration 262. Duration at .050 is 218 with .493 valve lift.
Exhaust lobe #5232 Advertised duration 268. Duration at .050 is 218 with .456 valve lift.
Have them grind it on a 108 lobe separation angle with a 104 intake centerline. "108 +4"

I'd use a Performer RPM intake and 1 5/8, long-tube headers.

Pretty straight-forward deal that should make 1 hp per cubic inch pretty easily.


Shawn

Live in a way that those who know you but don't know God will come to know God because they know you.
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post #23 of 51 Old 07-06-2013, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
LeePrather
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzz401
don't put a lot of faith in factory numbers they were there for the government

put a better cam in it u have a carb and intake already

from early 70's to the 80's were a larger chamber on the heads they went 50 cc to 58/60 cc pistons for compression and AMC dished there pistons to get to 8.5cr
So I need to get back around 50cc? I've read that cams were the biggest change...
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post #24 of 51 Old 07-06-2013, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
LeePrather
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454
Here's how I'd go about it.

Set yourself up with a little porting station. A dremel with a flexible wand and a handful of grinding cones works pretty well.



Then just spend some time smoothing the bowls out and getting a nice transition from the bowl to the valve seat. You can skinny the guide boss down a little, too. I'm guessing the exhaust ports are terrible like any other OEM casting so spend some time there as well. The dremel finish is fine but they don't make for pretty pictures. Hopefully your heads don't look as bad as these, lol. There should be an easy 30 hp just in minor porting work.



Then I'd have Comp grind a cam using lobes from their Xtreme Energy profiles.

Intake lobe #5442 Advertised duration 262. Duration at .050 is 218 with .493 valve lift.
Exhaust lobe #5232 Advertised duration 268. Duration at .050 is 218 with .456 valve lift.
Have them grind it on a 108 lobe separation angle with a 104 intake centerline. "108 +4"

I'd use a Performer RPM intake and 1 5/8, long-tube headers.

Pretty straight-forward deal that should make 1 hp per cubic inch pretty easily.

Shawn
Alright Shawn...perfect info, but you lost me on the lobe specs...that is all on one can correct? Just specs for them to machine all the lobes to?
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post #25 of 51 Old 07-06-2013, 10:34 AM
swatson454
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That's correct. Just say "intake lobe 5442, exhaust lobe 5232 on a 108 +4" and he'll know exactly what you want. I don't even think they charge more for a custom grind anymore.


Shawn

Live in a way that those who know you but don't know God will come to know God because they know you.
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post #26 of 51 Old 07-06-2013, 11:00 AM
fuzz401
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when I had my 360 all I did was change the cam 268 comp hyd cam intake and 600 carb with wheel well headers and 58cc heads but I had the single stud heads instead of the bridged heads but they make roller rockers for bridged heads now

1978 cj-7 had since 1979
401 .030 over- full floating flat top pistons
crower solid cam 292 dur .500/.510 lift
turbo 400 tranny 2500 stall
model 20 transfer case
aj delux glass body
4" lift
dana 30 frount
dana 44 rear
4.56 gears
http://img2.photobucket.com/albums/v...slideshow=true
http://photobucket.com/albums/v31/fu...slideshow=true
13.461 @ 92.45 mph on 37" super swampers on 1/4 mile
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post #27 of 51 Old 07-06-2013, 12:00 PM
Elyx
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In addition to the valve work, a quick and easy way to add a bit more is to port match the exhaust ports to the exhaust manifold/headers. most people don't realize that the fit between head and exhaust manifold isn't perfect, and often have ridges and offsets that impede flow.

1) use the gasket as a template for both (so they match each other) use a perm-marker or whatever will stand out and scribe the inside of the exhaust gasket for each port on both the head and the manifold (make sure you have the gasket lined up correctly with the bolt holes! )
2) use the markings as a guide and grind out a smooth transition in the head and the manifold. I usually start on the outside edge and widen it till it matches the gasket template outline, then work my way in smoothing the transition out.

Hope that explanation isn't too confusing! I don't have any pics of my previous projects, So I cant' show ya, but I wouldn't be surprised if there isn't a few guides out there in the interwebz for it. also, I haven't done this yet with non-square ports (like the dog-leg ports in the later v8's) so tread carefully if you have those.

Edit: should have checked first. quick vid on it for some other car. Concept remains the same. He doesn't go as deep a I would...I prefer to not only match, but provide a smooth transition for the air into the plenum. jsut be careful when taking allot of material off of headers...some of the cheaper brands have thin walls...it's easy to take too much off and cause weak spots that later end up as cracks. enjoy!



Last edited by Elyx; 07-06-2013 at 12:08 PM. Reason: adding content
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post #28 of 51 Old 07-06-2013, 06:34 PM
Blutarsky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeePrather View Post
I found an amc 360 from a 80 wagoneer. Based on what I see the hp was restricted to 160 by all the emissions crap. Is there any way to remove anything to get it back to the early 70s hp numbers around 250hp without spending more than a grand?
Mine is from an '82 Cherokee, I am pulling all the smog stuff off, then again I am just listening to what people that know what they are doing tell me to.
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post #29 of 51 Old 07-06-2013, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
LeePrather
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Location: Jefferson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454
That's correct. Just say "intake lobe 5442, exhaust lobe 5232 on a 108 +4" and he'll know exactly what you want. I don't even think they charge more for a custom grind anymore.

Shawn
Will it matter which of these or since it will be custom, I just need to call them and order?
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post #30 of 51 Old 07-06-2013, 07:33 PM
Jim1611
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A couple of things on the porting and matching of runners. The intake side does not need to be as smooth as the exhaust side. In fact the intake ports work somewhat better it they don't have a real smooth finish. This helps keep the fuel and air mixed. Now in getting rid of the exhaust, the smoother the better. Here's another idea http://www.mgccars.com/grooved-head-information.html It's grooves cut in the head.
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