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Unread 07-12-2011, 08:37 PM   #16
foggybottombob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
I've never needed a spreader to remove a carrier. On installing, I use a plastic dead blow. I thought it might help to install the carrier, with the spreader. Especially with the preload and thin shims.

From what I remember reading somewhere, is it a fact, you can't have enough carrier bearing preload?

Bill
You can have too little or too much carrier bearing preload.

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Unread 07-12-2011, 09:45 PM   #17
VACJ7
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I made a crude one when working on my AMC 20 but only used it once. It worked well but found I really did not need it and pry bar removed carrier easily and plastic deadblow to put it back.
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Unread 07-13-2011, 07:17 AM   #18
BioTex
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With so many guys saying I won't need the tool, I've decided to do the job without. Thanks to all for helping. I'm starting to get comfortable with the idea of swapping the gear set. Waiting for the master set to arrive.
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Unread 07-13-2011, 08:57 AM   #19
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With a D44 the shims are under the bearings, so you aren't going to damage them installing the carrier assembly.

I can see a spreader coming in handy on an AMC 20 or Ford 8.8, where the shims sit outside of the bearings.
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Unread 07-13-2011, 01:26 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BioTex View Post
A machinist friend suggested I make one is why I ask. He said as many times as you add/remove shims, that it is not worth it to no have one handy. He mentioned .001" when spreading.

I suppose i could try to do the job without one, then I can make one if it proves too hard. I mean, I know I can force things, but don't want to damage anything either. I like having good tools...
You don't have to struggle with removing the case during your setup process. There is no need to preload the carrier bearings until you get to your final setup. During yor setup process, just set your diff carrier endplay at "zero". When everything looks good, then go ahead a preload the carrier bearings.
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Unread 07-13-2011, 03:05 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80cj View Post
You don't have to struggle with removing the case during your setup process. There is no need to preload the carrier bearings until you get to your final setup. During yor setup process, just set your diff carrier endplay at "zero". When everything looks good, then go ahead a preload the carrier bearings.
Good to know! Thanks for the tip.
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Unread 07-13-2011, 06:34 PM   #22
agear
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let me know if you still need those measurements
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Unread 07-13-2011, 07:40 PM   #23
keith460
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Kieth460:
I would have been nervous to use the cover bolt holes, but obviously they work. What kind of a force would you estimate it takes to spread 1 mm?

Are we talking no big deal, or it was a lot, and nearly bent my home made tool?
Hardly any force, just enough to get the carrier in and out while swapping in shims. I used grade 8 bolts where it bolted to the pumpkin cover so they would not fatigue as much.
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Unread 07-14-2011, 12:00 AM   #24
80cj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
With a D44 the shims are under the bearings, so you aren't going to damage them installing the carrier assembly.

I can see a spreader coming in handy on an AMC 20 or Ford 8.8, where the shims sit outside of the bearings.
On both AMC 20 and Ford 8.8, if you use the thick OEM style shims, it is easy to drive them ibetween the bearing cup and housing with a plastic mallet. Just got done doing an 8.8 which gets preloaded .012. No problems
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Unread 04-16-2013, 12:17 PM   #25
KenK01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
Having pulled/installed several carriers/ring/pinon sets in Dana 44s, I've never needed a case spreader.

Unless you're looking for something to do I wouldn't build one unless you get to the install and just can't get the carrier back in.

Stubborn carriers are easy to remove by stuffing a shop rag between the ring/pinion teeth and turning the pinion. No banging/prying necessary.
I can't believe how easily this method worked and thank you very much. after looking for spreaders and trying everything I knew trying to get the gear set out of very stubborn dana 44 , put the shop rag in there and it popped right out. highly suggest this method... doesn't hurt a thing and really works!
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Unread 04-16-2013, 08:15 PM   #26
86cj74.2L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenK01

I can't believe how easily this method worked and thank you very much. after looking for spreaders and trying everything I knew trying to get the gear set out of very stubborn dana 44 , put the shop rag in there and it popped right out. highly suggest this method... doesn't hurt a thing and really works!
If you have a open diff a crowbar through the center section to keep it from spinning works good as well. I did that on the Dana 60 front axil of my cummins to change oil seals.
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Unread 04-16-2013, 08:35 PM   #27
CSP
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That crowbar method sounds better. I just pulled the carrier out of the D60 going under my pickup and I had to insert the rag several times. It took a lot to get that carrier out and it chewed the rag to pieces. Oddly enough it went back in really easy after the new axleshaft seals were installed.
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Unread 04-16-2013, 10:01 PM   #28
86cj74.2L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP
That crowbar method sounds better. I just pulled the carrier out of the D60 going under my pickup and I had to insert the rag several times. It took a lot to get that carrier out and it chewed the rag to pieces. Oddly enough it went back in really easy after the new axleshaft seals were installed.
Heavy bugger ain't it?

No wonder my truck weighs 6300lbs.

I killed the drivers side seal by my own stupidity. I never cleaned the crud out of the tube, as well as coating the splines with grease to catch the dirt so the seal can wipe it clean.

I now have a dowel rod with half a soup can lid nailed to it to scrape out the junk. And the miller seal driver tool.
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