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Unread 07-12-2011, 12:30 PM   #1
BioTex
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home made case spreader

As some of you know, I'll be swapping gears in a pair of D44's.
I'm thinking I want to make a case spreader similar to this one, but hate to reinvent the wheel. Has anyone already made one that works well?

Any dimensions you care to share? Any do's or don'ts?

case-spreader.jpg  
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Unread 07-12-2011, 12:53 PM   #2
Cutlass327
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There's not much you can do to change that design for "reinventing the wheel". Just make sure you use a dial indicator to prevent over-spreading the case beyond it returning back. I forget the specs for that..
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Unread 07-12-2011, 12:57 PM   #3
CSP
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Having pulled/installed several carriers/ring/pinon sets in Dana 44s, I've never needed a case spreader.

Unless you're looking for something to do I wouldn't build one unless you get to the install and just can't get the carrier back in.

Stubborn carriers are easy to remove by stuffing a shop rag between the ring/pinion teeth and turning the pinion. No banging/prying necessary.
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Unread 07-12-2011, 01:43 PM   #4
agear
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I have one I bought I can give you the dimensions on. If necessary. I bought it but I did not need it on my amc 20. I thought I had the carrier cocked in there when I put the carrier in the housing but I bet if I would have persisted in trying to pry it out , trying different positions with the crow bar all day long and maybe even longer I would have got it out. The rag method sounds interesting. Also you can use a small piece of wood as a fulcrum on the bottom of the housing and long crow bar or pry bar or whatever it's called about three feet long or so and press down and the pry bar should pry the carrier toward you and probably up some.
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Unread 07-12-2011, 02:31 PM   #5
BioTex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
Having pulled/installed several carriers/ring/pinon sets in Dana 44s, I've never needed a case spreader.

Unless you're looking for something to do I wouldn't build one unless you get to the install and just can't get the carrier back in.

Stubborn carriers are easy to remove by stuffing a shop rag between the ring/pinion teeth and turning the pinion. No banging/prying necessary.
A machinist friend suggested I make one is why I ask. He said as many times as you add/remove shims, that it is not worth it to no have one handy. He mentioned .001" when spreading.

I suppose i could try to do the job without one, then I can make one if it proves too hard. I mean, I know I can force things, but don't want to damage anything either. I like having good tools...
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1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
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Unread 07-12-2011, 03:04 PM   #6
keith460
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I made one a couple of years ago that served its purpose. Two pieces of curved steel we had laying around at work bolted to the pumpkin and a simple all-thread nut or coupler nut that had a set screw in one end that allowed the smaller threaded rod stay stationary while the other threaded rod pushed on the housing to open it by about 1mm. That is all that is needed to install and remove shims as you do not want to deform the housing.

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Unread 07-12-2011, 04:03 PM   #7
BioTex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
I have one I bought I can give you the dimensions on. If necessary. I bought it but I did not need it on my amc 20. I thought I had the carrier cocked in there when I put the carrier in the housing but I bet if I would have persisted in trying to pry it out , trying different positions with the crow bar all day long and maybe even longer I would have got it out. The rag method sounds interesting. Also you can use a small piece of wood as a fulcrum on the bottom of the housing and long crow bar or pry bar or whatever it's called about three feet long or so and press down and the pry bar should pry the carrier toward you and probably up some.
I would love the dimensions if you don't mind. I may make one since this won't be the last time I set up an axle.
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'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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Unread 07-12-2011, 04:06 PM   #8
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Kieth460:
I would have been nervous to use the cover bolt holes, but obviously they work. What kind of a force would you estimate it takes to spread 1 mm?

Are we talking no big deal, or it was a lot, and nearly bent my home made tool?
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'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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Unread 07-12-2011, 04:29 PM   #9
agear
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Okay, working on it.
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 07-12-2011, 05:31 PM   #10
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..
f16330127.jpg  
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 07-12-2011, 05:37 PM   #11
BioTex
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I found a HF 12 ton press today at a garage sale. so I bought it. I know it is marginal, and need a 20 ton, but for the price I couldn't pass it up.

Is there a crush sleeve on the D44?

The cool thing I found was an I-beam 14' long. Perfect for my shop trolly hoist I've been wanting. Might have to install it before I tackle the rear axle. Shure will save me a lot of free beers!
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'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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Unread 07-12-2011, 05:39 PM   #12
BioTex
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Got measurements? Looks like I could build that easy enough.
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'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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Unread 07-12-2011, 05:44 PM   #13
agear
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The solid pieces are the sides and are 1 3/16" thick , 2inches wide. The bottom and top pieces are made out of 5 /16" thick steel. The blocks sandwich and welded in between the bottom and top pieces are 1 5/16" and 2 inches long. Are you gonna be able to make this................. ? Cuz I got a lot of measurements....
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 07-12-2011, 05:56 PM   #14
foggybottombob
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The D44 does not use a crush sleeve except for the Isuzu Rodeo/Honda Passport version. Other Dana 44 housings use pinion preload shims. There are at least a couple of ways to deal with the pinion preload while you setup the gears.

I've setup at least a dozen Dana axles and have never used a case spreader. The only problem I have ever had from not having a spreader is that you can get the total amount of carrier shims too high (this can happen if you use the same shims you had and put in new carrier bearings). If you get too much total carrier shim then it can shave metal off the sides of the tubes to the outside of where the carrier bearings seat. These little pieces of metal can get under the carrier bearing races and give you wrong readings.

Getting the carrier out is one issue. I use two pry bars and something like folded up denim to pad the housing faces. Putting the carrier back in is another issue. I have a big semi hard plastic hammer to re-seat the carrier after changing carrier shims.

One thing you absolutely want are carrier setup bearings. You can make them if you need to.
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Unread 07-12-2011, 06:41 PM   #15
lucdog
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I've never needed a spreader to remove a carrier. On installing, I use a plastic dead blow. I thought it might help to install the carrier, with the spreader. Especially with the preload and thin shims.

From what I remember reading somewhere, is it a fact, you can't have enough carrier bearing preload?

Bill
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