Holley carb and stock distributor question - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 21 Old 01-27-2010, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
ElZorro
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Illinois
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These were sourced from Ford correct(the distributors)? Would I have better luck maybe going to this site:

Early Bronco Restoration Full Size Bronco Restoration Classic Ford Bronco Parts For Sale

Or was the distributor modified for AMC's purposes, or not a stock ford part I could find on one of their trucks in other words?

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post #17 of 21 Old 01-27-2010, 11:58 AM
Fjguercio
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I would call advance auto or similar auto store and ask for 1979 AMC 360 distributor. Ask them to bring in 3 of them so you can pick one with larger advance slots..... the slots / numbers can be read from a small hole topside. I think that was mentioned in the links too... Expect to pay $50for a rebuilt unit with lifetime warranty. They will want your core in exchange.
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post #18 of 21 Old 01-27-2010, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
ElZorro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fjguercio View Post
I would call advance auto or similar auto store and ask for 1979 AMC 360 distributor. Ask them to bring in 3 of them so you can pick one with larger advance slots..... the slots / numbers can be read from a small hole topside. I think that was mentioned in the links too... Expect to pay $50for a rebuilt unit with lifetime warranty. They will want your core in exchange.
So in the picture I posted that shows the 8, that is the correct location to find the advance marks? I wasn't sure if that was correct or not, I just pulled my cap and saw that 6 on one side and on the other and assumed those were the numbers you were asking me to check for. I wasn't looking through any kind of hole, just saw those numbers when I pulled the cap off.
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post #19 of 21 Old 01-27-2010, 01:57 PM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElZorro View Post
Also, anyone know where to get a vacuum cannister for the motorcraft dizzy for cheap? Everywhere I have looked they are $100+, but reman distributors with cannisters on them go for significantly less. I assume my best bet would just be to get a reman distributor and be done with it, unless there is a compelling reason to keep the original.
They normally design the distributor for the engine and the camshaft in the engine. I would get the proper remanned distributor for the 1991 360 engine unless I was changing the cam out. Then the cam maker would give you the advance specs usually.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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post #20 of 21 Old 01-27-2010, 03:16 PM
75CJLevi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
IF you go Holley, there won't be an 'Issue' with the vacuum advance.

Check your vacuum advance and make sure the diaphragm isn't ruptured.
Just get a CLEAN vacuum line and connect it to the carb, suck on the line and see if you can get air to flow through the canister.
If so, time for a new distributor since the vacuum canister is virtually impossible to find and costs more than a Reman distributor (reman around $50)

With the cap off the distributor, you can see if the vacuum arm is moving when you 'suck'.
If it works, use it.

Edelbrock's version of the Carter AFB is set up for GM vehicles, and has a 'Weak' signal for the distributor vacuum canister.

Holley will be about perfect for what you are wanting.
Would a leak in the dist have an effect of keeping the engine running? I just rebuilt mr carb and it starts right up but does not idle and it runs really rough.

1975 CJ5 Levi Edition, 304 V8 AMC; Blue with denim seats.
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post #21 of 21 Old 01-27-2010, 03:18 PM
75CJLevi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post
IF you go Holley, there won't be an 'Issue' with the vacuum advance.

Check your vacuum advance and make sure the diaphragm isn't ruptured.
Just get a CLEAN vacuum line and connect it to the carb, suck on the line and see if you can get air to flow through the canister.
If so, time for a new distributor since the vacuum canister is virtually impossible to find and costs more than a Reman distributor (reman around $50)

With the cap off the distributor, you can see if the vacuum arm is moving when you 'suck'.
If it works, use it.

Edelbrock's version of the Carter AFB is set up for GM vehicles, and has a 'Weak' signal for the distributor vacuum canister.

Holley will be about perfect for what you are wanting.
Would a leak in the dist vac cause the engine to not idle? I rebuilt my carb and it starts right up but does not stay running. It tries to idle but keeps stalling

1975 CJ5 Levi Edition, 304 V8 AMC; Blue with denim seats.
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