post #1 of Old 01-29-2014, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
Plastixrecycler
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Holes in CJ7 body

So I removed all the diamond plating from my 1985 CJ7 and uncovered numerous holes in the body. Not only did the PO drill through the diamond plating, into the body, but there are also a bunch of random bolts "badazzled" throughout the body. I want to get these repaired the right way, not using bondo. Does anyone else have experience with repairing holes in their body? What's the estimated cost to get them professionally repaired?

There's really no rust on the Jeep, here are some pics of a few of the holes. Some of the holes may look rusty but its just dirt.

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post #2 of Old 01-29-2014, 09:27 PM
SouthernGypsy
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Around here my welder would do up a body like that for about $250 and it's ground smooth when he's done, all you need is a little scratch filler. Different areas have different prices and also depends on how well ya know the guy.

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post #3 of Old 01-29-2014, 10:22 PM
BagusJeep
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Small holes in sound metal can be plug welded fairly easily. If they are small not a lot of heat will be used and the surface will remain flat.

Larger holes may cause more problems. I like to put a patch on the back and tack weld it on from the front and then fill.

I have had some success in the past with welding in flush new sheet metal patches to much larger holes but the heat can distort the thin panels.

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1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
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post #4 of Old 01-29-2014, 10:38 PM
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Buy you a welder and get her done! The welder will pay for itself quickly


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post #5 of Old 01-29-2014, 11:29 PM
only in a jeep cj
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An experienced welder will know now to fill those or patch any larger ones without warping it. Either way, a light application of a flapper disc or the like will need to bring it smooth. A thin skim will be needed and blended out. If not, the shinny black paint will highlight the repair areas with wavy light reflections. Its that body work and the paint work that will drive the cost up.
I would leave them for now. Then practice some on a scrap piece (of the same gauge) and do the work right before the whole Jeep gets painted IF or when....or your be driving around with sections of the decals missing and large patch areas of primer.

Ed
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post #6 of Old 01-30-2014, 01:35 PM
30YR_MCPO
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Yeah 250 or so, depending on what else needs to be pulled out/covered up from splatter. Good Luck!
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post #7 of Old 01-30-2014, 02:48 PM
Renegade82
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Clamp a piece of copper to the backside and plug weld it in increments from the front. Flap disk it flat and paint.

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post #8 of Old 01-30-2014, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
Plastixrecycler
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Thank you for all the replies! These are all really helpful, I'll probably end up welding them myself like Renegade and Only in a CJ suggested. Thanks for the input.
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post #9 of Old 01-31-2014, 08:14 AM
CSP
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Flat washers make better filler for larger holes that filling the entire hole with weld.
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post #10 of Old 01-31-2014, 10:16 AM
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What about pin holes in a floor pan? My "rust-free" CJ sat up for a couple years, and when I pulled the rubber floor mats I had some nice rust in the passenger floor. Still solid, but has pin holes. Can these be welded up and smoothed over (after sandblasting or phospho bath to eliminate all the rust) or do I need to cut the whole panel out and weld a new one in? Given that they're only pin holes I would LIKE to go with the less drastic of the two.

Hope this isn't too much of a hijack. I have some "extra" holes that need to be welded up as well, and was going to do it all at once.

85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

85 CJ7 258, A/C, T176, MC2100, Team Rush, Warn XD8000i, superwinch hubs, 3in lift 31" BFG AT/KO
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post #11 of Old 01-31-2014, 10:45 AM
Renegade82
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The thing about pinholes is that they are just the edge of thin metal and what will eventually be a larger hole. Take a pick and poke at the hole. It will make it bigger and reveal more thin rusting metal, but better now than shortly after repairing it. And if your welding it you need to get to thicker good metal anyways or it will just keep burning thru and making a mess. It's usually best to just cut a larger square hole out, encompassing several pinholes, so you know your back to good metal and a square patch is easier to weld back in.

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My frame off Re-Build: (the 4 year saga....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
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post #12 of Old 01-31-2014, 10:51 AM
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wm69
What about pin holes in a floor pan? My "rust-free" CJ sat up for a couple years, and when I pulled the rubber floor mats I had some nice rust in the passenger floor. Still solid, but has pin holes. Can these be welded up and smoothed over (after sandblasting or phospho bath to eliminate all the rust) or do I need to cut the whole panel out and weld a new one in? Given that they're only pin holes I would LIKE to go with the less drastic of the two. Hope this isn't too much of a hijack. I have some "extra" holes that need to be welded up as well, and was going to do it all at once.
You'll probably find that those pin holes will turn into thumb-sized holes once you start grinding off the rust. I hope I'm wrong.

In any event, try to remove as much of the rust as possible, then hit it with a acid-based rust neutralizer before welding and refinishing.

Good luck

Matt
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post #13 of Old 01-31-2014, 11:09 AM
jhughes2013
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haha, I have bigger holes than that that the PO tried to bondo. The bondo fell out and now they're speed holes...

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