high pressure fuel pump for injected engine conversion - Page 5 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > high pressure fuel pump for injected engine conversion

Dana 30/ Dana 44 Chromoly shaft Kits- ECGSFS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye KitFlowmaster's Force II Axle-back exhaust system for the 201

Reply
Unread 03-25-2009, 11:51 AM   #61
1975Waggy
Registered User
1975 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Athens Greece
Posts: 13
I have now uploaded to the computer pictures of the sending unit in its stock form when I took it out of the tank, and after the conversion before putting it back in. If anybody is interested or would simply like to see them, provide me with an e-mail address as the size exceeds the forum quota for posting.

1975Waggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-25-2009, 04:52 PM   #62
ncmx1
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 40
Sure...I am in the process of doing this. I want to compare.

blaze132@hotmail.com

Thanks,

Ben
__________________
www.justgastanks.com

One Stop shop for Moto-Tanks!
ncmx1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-25-2009, 04:55 PM   #63
Coiz
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern, IL
Posts: 4,158
Send them to me and I will post them for everyone. coiz at AOL dot com
__________________
Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
Coiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-26-2009, 06:53 AM   #64
coas
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 442
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1975Waggy View Post
Question for coas. When the engine is idling and you grab the high pressure hose that delivers fuel to the rail you feel a very distinctive and regular throb or pulse. Is this normal, and if so what causes it?
Change in pressure caused by the injectors pulse i.e open/closed injector causing pressure drop/increase, respectively.

Can you please send your pictures to coas21@hotmail.com.


One note, your fuel tank isn't setup for FI, meaning it doesn't have the "dividers", which are intended for keeping the fuel from sloshing from side to side. hence, you still need keeping the fuel level getting too low. But the benefits of in-tank pump are overcoming the above.
__________________
84 CJ7 , Dana 44 rear D30 front, 258, 4.0 head, MPFI, e-fans, T176, Dana 300, 31x10.5x15 and Mustang hydroboost.
My esnips folders:Jeep Jeep Transmissions
coas is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-26-2009, 10:12 AM   #65
Coiz
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern, IL
Posts: 4,158
Here are the pictures for 1975Waggy:
Stock pick up:


Pick up converted to correct length with an Airtex E2182 pump:


1975Waggy,
Do you have the part numbers for that pick up sock and rubber grommet that holds it on?
__________________
Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
Coiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-28-2009, 11:07 AM   #66
1975Waggy
Registered User
1975 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Athens Greece
Posts: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by coas View Post
Change in pressure caused by the injectors pulse i.e open/closed injector causing pressure drop/increase, respectively.

Can you please send your pictures to coas21@hotmail.com.


One note, your fuel tank isn't setup for FI, meaning it doesn't have the "dividers", which are intended for keeping the fuel from sloshing from side to side. hence, you still need keeping the fuel level getting too low. But the benefits of in-tank pump are overcoming the above.
Pictures have already been e-mailed. I'm posting this response for the benefit of others interested.
When I removed the stock sending unit from the tank and had a good peak in the tank to see how clean it was etc., I did notice a divider running across the deep part of tank just about at the point where the tank begins to shallow out as it extends towards the front of the Jeep. I'm not sure if this is the divider you are reffering to, and I was not able to detect if there were any other dividers in other parts of the tank.
In any case, you are right in that in such a conversion the fuel level should not be allowed to get too low, especially while off-roading. Under the circumstances we could not think of any practical and easy way to baffle the pick up point in the tank. After the conversion was completed only about 3.5 gallons (what was removed before taking the tank down) were put back in the tank and it worked just fine.
1975Waggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-29-2009, 03:06 AM   #67
coas
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 442
Thanks for the pictures.
Let us know if this solved the problem.


Coiz, stock E2182 comes with strainer and 1/2 outlet fitting. If you are looking for one, Airtex FS202 (DELPHI Part # FS0130) is the part No.

1975Waggy, E2182 was used in cars that are more available to you:
FIAT 124 SPIDER (1981 - 1983)
FIAT BRAVA 1981
FIAT X-1/9 (1981 - 1983)
__________________
84 CJ7 , Dana 44 rear D30 front, 258, 4.0 head, MPFI, e-fans, T176, Dana 300, 31x10.5x15 and Mustang hydroboost.
My esnips folders:Jeep Jeep Transmissions
coas is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 04-02-2009, 04:46 AM   #68
1975Waggy
Registered User
1975 FSJ Wagoneer 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Athens Greece
Posts: 13
The filter attached to the pump's inlet is a Walbro, part number in this part of the world (Greece) 011073004. However, autoperformanceengineering.com/html/kits.html and .....pickups.html has quite a large selection of filters and pickups respectively that should do for most custom applications. The rubber grommet I used to hold the filter in place on the E2182 just happened to be lying around the shop, luckily, at the time. Its origin remains unknown.
1975Waggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-25-2009, 01:11 PM   #69
Coiz
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern, IL
Posts: 4,158
I'm getting ready to install my E8228 fuel pump and am wondering about the size of the return line. The feed line from the pump to the fuel rail is 5/16" but the return line is only 1/4". I am thinking this could cause some back pressure and possibly some fuel pressure spikes due to the 1/4" line possibly restricting the fuel return. Has anyone had a problem with this?

Another option is the vapor line from the tank to the charcoal canister is 5/16". It would be very simple to swap the two and make the 5/16" vapor line the fuel return and make the 1/4" line the vapor canister feed. I can't imagine having the vapor line go from 5/16" to 1/4" causing any type of problems since all it does is feed vapor from the tank to the canister. Thoughts?
__________________
Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
Coiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-25-2009, 03:07 PM   #70
Redmanchew
Web Wheeler
 
Redmanchew's Avatar
1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Central Virginia
Posts: 1,528
Coiz...
I had to adapt 5/16 to -6an (3/8") at the top of the tank to my extrenal pump mounted on the crossmember. THen carried it up -6 up to the stupid fuel rail adaptors. I kept -6 as the return line from the fuel psi manifold return fitting all the way back to the tank.
I was doing some fuel PSi tests this weekend with a spare piece of 3/8" on the return hooked into a jerry can and i will tell you that the PSI you need to run in the vortec setup will fill a 5 gal can pretty damn quick.
It still runs 55-62 psi at the rail. THere is an internal fuel pressure regulator inside the maifold for the vortec so i would say the 5/16 or a 3/8" return line will be fine. after seeing how much it flows at idle (just recirculating basically) i'm glad i went with the 3/8"
__________________
1982 CJ-7 2003 4.3 chevy vortec, 4L60E, Clocked Dana 300 35 x 12.5 x 15 KM2 on Cragar 399's. Vanco Brake Booster. Power steering conversion. Warn front and rear bumpers with swing away. Moser 1 piece rears. Rear OX.

Support your local MS foundation. You don't know how much this disease sucks until it affects someone you love.

http://main.nationalmssociety.org/si...al&fr_id=18331

Quote:
Originally Posted by twoleos617 View Post
To reiterate for the 1,067th time, when towing...
remove rear axle, xfer in N, trans in 5th, remove neg batt cable, key to Run and go??
Redmanchew is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-25-2009, 03:28 PM   #71
Coiz
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern, IL
Posts: 4,158
My Ford application runs 32psi at idle and 40psi at WOT. The pump puts out up to 125psi at 38g per hour. The feed and return off the engine fuel rails are both 5/16". Checking around on the internet looks like the 1992 Mustang came with 5/16" lines for both. I am worried that a 1/4" return would be too small and could create too much back pressure and inadvertently increase my fuel pressure in the rail.

I've got the 5/16" line already sitting there for the vapor line to the tank so I will probably just swap that to be the fuel return line.

What do you think about downsizing the vapor line from 5/16" to 1/4"? Before my build I didn't even have a canister so the line just sat unused and vented to atmosphere. I would like to get the evaporative emissions functioning but not spend a lot of money doing it. I'm already looking at picking up the charcoal canister. The Mustang purge valve I need is another $40. If I need to spend $$$ on another line I may just give up on the idea.

I was also thinking about trying to install the pump into the tank but think I will just put it on the crossmember. I would hate to cut up my new sending unit just to figure out the whole contraption wouldn't fit through the hole in the tank. It looks like it would be tight and impossible to get the float and pump through that hole at the same time.
__________________
Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
Coiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-25-2009, 04:31 PM   #72
Coiz
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern, IL
Posts: 4,158
I just measured the nipple on the check valve that feeds the vapor line and it's 1/4". So that's what I'll be using for the vapor line. I have no idea why Jeep would step up from a 1/4" nipple to a 5/16" line to run the length of the frame. Can anyone tell me what size the nipple is going into the charcoal canister? I wonder if they step it back down.
__________________
Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.
Coiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-26-2009, 06:32 AM   #73
Mike Romain
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Off the Grid in Chester Grant, Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 11,883
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coiz View Post
I just measured the nipple on the check valve that feeds the vapor line and it's 1/4". So that's what I'll be using for the vapor line. I have no idea why Jeep would step up from a 1/4" nipple to a 5/16" line to run the length of the frame. Can anyone tell me what size the nipple is going into the charcoal canister? I wonder if they step it back down.
There are two 1/4" check valves feeding the 5/16" vent line on mine. Then it stays 5/16" to the canister. With a big pump like that the 1/4" line 'may' work for the vent. If it starves for gas at speed, remember this and crack open the gas cap. If that fixes things, then you should up the vent line size back to 5/16".
__________________
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
Mike Romain is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-26-2009, 11:33 AM   #74
Coiz
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern, IL
Posts: 4,158
Good point Mike. I can see how this is the main tank venting. What do you mean by you have two 1/4" check valves feeding the 5/16" line? Do they 'T' back together?

I have two lines that go from the tank up to the liquid check valve. Then a single 1/4" line goes from the top of the liquid check valve to the bottom of the rollover valve. From there it comes out of the top of the rollover valve via a 1/4" nipple. That 1/4" line steps up to 5/16" when it turns into green plastic and connects to the solid metal line going to up to the canister. So I figured all of the vapor has to be going through that single 1/4" nipple on the check valve before it can go up the 5/16" line to the canister. Perhaps mine was never hooked up right as it was cannibalized by the PO.

Edit: I just found this picture and this is how mine is hooked up. The nipple coming out of the top left of that rollover valve is 1/4" and the only one I see that feeds vapor to the 5/16" line. I guess that's why I'm a little confused on why they would use a 5/16" line on something that is fed by a 1/4" nipple.
__________________
Mike
My build thread
1979 CJ7, FI 5.0L Ford, NP435, D300, Full floated D44 Detroit, D30 Detroit EZ Locker.

Last edited by Coiz; 11-26-2009 at 11:45 AM..
Coiz is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-26-2009, 01:08 PM   #75
Mike Romain
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Off the Grid in Chester Grant, Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 11,883
The tanks have two vent lines coming off them, one for each side of the tank. This is so they can still vent if parked off camber with a full tank. The gas expands as it warms up so the fumes have to escape to the charcoal in the canister.

On the 15 gallon, these two vent lines are internal and come out to the liquid check valve in 1/4" size. On the 20 gallon tank these 1/4" lines are external and come off the top of the tank to a T fitting that then changes the line size to 5/16".

I would highly suspect that the single line coming off the top of the 15 gallon check valve also should be 5/16. That is how it 'should' work, the larger line to carry the volumn of the two smaller lines.

I do see what you mean in that drawing though, it does look like a step up fitting doesn't it.

If you check the photos in this thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/we...4/#post6946312 it looks like the two primary lines are smaller than the single and the green plastic line looks to be the right size to just fit tight in the 5/16 line at the canister. The plastic line doesn't look to be 1/4".
__________________
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
Mike Romain is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.