[whittlecj]

Originally Posted by bleoh

It may not be. I am pretty sure that is a filter/pressure regulator all in one. It is used with a returnless fuel rail. Fuel is under pressure at the outlet and any excess fuel provided by the pump is fed back to the tank. I think in stock setups these are kept back by the tank (think of all the fuel lines this saves the car companies!).

I don't think drainback is an issue in a returnless or full looped FI system. I suspect the check valve in the pump or the fuel pressure regulator itself keeps that from happening.

The WJ filter is the regulator as well, and my understanding is that it does have a check valve.

[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by whittlecj

The WJ filter is the regulator as well, and my understanding is that it does have a check valve.

Similar to the CJ filter then. It is also a regulator with a metered hole for the return line, but it has no check valve.

[cjlevoy]

have been reading your posts. My dad put EfI on his 76 cj-5 and put a ford external pump on it. Living in IL he ahd no problems but whenwe went out to colorado he had problems with the external being able to pump the fuel. Ford must have also had the same problems with just their external set-up because they started offering their "high altitude" version which included an in-tank pump, along with the external. If you don't plan on going to high altitudes you may never see a problem, but it mightbe something to look into. We proceeded to put in-tank pumps in and haven't had any issues.

[ncmx1]

What tank and In tank pump are you using? Did you retro fit the Stock tank?

Also, Can you use the external pumps with AN fitting or are the push fitting OK?

[ncmx1]

Anyone? I need to get my CJ up an going again..

[whittlecj]

Originally Posted by ncmx1

Anyone? I need to get my CJ up an going again..

It wasn't clear who you were asking or what your reference was.

I'm using the stock tank that I cleaned with the e2182, g3, and wj filter.

[ncmx1]

Ooops.. Sorry. Are you using Threaded connections? Thanks for the reply. I was actually asking the guy who did the in tank pump also.

[whittlecj]

Originally Posted by ncmx1

Are you using Threaded connections?

I am not planning on it. I have all the parts ready to go, just haven't put them together.

[jfwireless]

Originally Posted by ncmx1

What tank and In tank pump are you using? Did you retro fit the Stock tank?

Also, Can you use the external pumps with AN fitting or are the push fitting OK?

I am running TBI, but I used a 15 gallon TBI 1990 YJ tank in my 76 CJ. I had to rotate the tank 180 degrees as the fuel lines and vent lines are on opposite sides of the tank. I needed the larger return line 5/16 and liked the3/8 inch fuel line as well with the YJ tank. It also has a baffle in the bottom of the tank and an internal fuel pump. I used marine fuel line for connections to the YJ filler cap. I also installed a YJ taillight harness with the fuel pump/sender connector so I could have the fuel pump power in the rear body harness. I used to have an external carter P5001 pump, but I had to much back pressure with the 1/4 inch return line. The YJ 15 gallon tank went right in where the CJ tank was with no issues. The YJ TBI in tank pump is a really high pressure pump, so it might work for your high pressure fuel system. If you could get one you could sit it on the floor and plumb it up to see if it would work out OK. I just do not care to hang a high pressure fuel pump on the bottom of my CJ, it just doesn't seem like a good idea.


Jim

[Huey94]

Ok, just read your post. I'm setting up a 2003 4.3 VORTEC and haven't seen anything calling for a regulator. the stock vehicle the engine comes from doesn't have one. I just want to make sure I get this right!

Originally Posted by coas

The stock fuel line is 5/16 and it will do fine, if you have the time you can install a new 3/8 fuel line but it's not an easy task with the tub on.

Your setup is OBD2 meaning no regulator at the fuel rail, mine is OBD1, the regulator is part of the fuel rail. Hesco sale the right regulator for your setup or you can get WJ fuel filter/regulator from any part store.



The filter I'm using is stock YJ filter, it has 3/8 inlet and 5/16 outlet which ensure a good flow for the FI and minimum pump load. The pre pump filter is G3 or G15.

[ncmx1]

Can you use the E2000 or the others as an in tank pump as well?

I belive they are all pretty much the same but I want to make sure I do not blow myself up rigging a In tank pumpe setup with my Stock sending unit.

[1986cj]

yamaguy what is or where did you get that fuse/relay holder that is mounted on the pass finder from?

[mayo]

Originally Posted by Huey94

Ok, just read your post. I'm setting up a 2003 4.3 VORTEC and haven't seen anything calling for a regulator. the stock vehicle the engine comes from doesn't have one. I just want to make sure I get this right!

According to my Chiltons manual, my regulator is on the fuel rail of the engine. Mine is a 2003 5.3 Vortec and I just finished installing the new Airtec 8248 pump. I went with this pump after speaking to an Airtec factory rep on the phone. He told me that "only" the 8248 was designed to run as a stand alone apllication complete with check valve. Have yet to try to fire the engine up, hopefully this week.

[Hardy350]

@mayo..

do you have some pics from the 5.3 swap?

[1975Waggy]

Originally Posted by coas

I'm using E2182, capable 50GPH @ 110PSI, mounted on the frame just outside the fuel tank, about two feet from the exhaust tail pipe, no heat shield and it's working perfectly for a year now.
The pump is available at most parts stores and cost about 90$.

The advantage of the E2182 over other pumps, especially the E2000, is the 1/2 inlet, as opposed to 5/16 (e2000) or 3/8 at other pumps. The larger inlet allow better/easier priming.

The pump doesn't need aluminum finned body, the extra fuel flowing throe it cool it down. Stock Jeep 4.0L pump is capable of 21-24 GPH, the extra capacity of the external pumps cool it down.

Hi, you seem to be rather knowledgeable on this subject so I would appreciate your comments on the problem I'm having.
I have a 1975 Wagoneer with a 360 V8. It used to have a 4bl carb but I converted to multi point EFI a few years ago. The system was supplied to me by CustomEfis. The system uses the E2182 EFI pump, the stock fuel tank and the stock 5/16 line to supply the pump. From the pump to the fuel rail I use a high presuure 3/8 hose and no filter. The pump is mounted on the inner side of the Jeep's frame (so no heat issue from the twin exhaust running down the outer side of the frame) and is a few inches from the front of the fuel tank. Fuel to the pump is supplied by atmosheric pressure through the 5/16 line from the back and over the top of the tank. There is a regular fuel filter before the pump's inlet. When the system is operating normally it works absolutely fine with no problems at all at a steady 40 PSI (I have a fuel pressure gauge mounted on the fuel rail). The problem I'm having is the following:
From a cold start and after about 45 minutes driving the fuel pressure starts to drop and the engine finally stalls after a couple of minutes or so. I need to wait about 15 minutes before I can start up and drive away for the problem to recur in a little while. The problem has been noticed to be aggrevated by hot weather conditions (I live in Athens Greece). In the summer, and again from a cold start, the problem appears after about 15-20 minutes.
I suspect the problem is fuel pump cavitation from heated fuel. I will try to install the pump in the tank (which should resolve the problem once and for all), but this may be practically very difficult to do on this vehicle. The alternative options I'm considering are:
1 - to open a 1/2 inch hole at the lowest point of the tank (which is at the back of the tank) and run a 1/2 inch line to supply the E2182. Keeping the tank always more than 1/4 full should give the pump sufficient and constant fuel availability for the pump to prime, even in hot weather conditions.
2 - The E2182 is rated 50 GPH which is way over what the system needs. So maybe installing the E8228 with a 38 GPH rating (and similar PSI rating) will reduce the amount of fuel being circulated between the engine and the tank per unit of time, and thus keep its tempreture lower. Also, I understand the E8228 has a 5/16 inlet which will eliminate the need to open a 1/2 inch hole in the tank.
For either option above, if deemed viable, would installing a low pressure electric pump to supply the EFI pump help in any way?
In any case I will take down the tank again and have it thoroughly cleaned. Worn tubing in the tank has already been replaced.

I would highly appreciate your comments and any other suggestions you may have.

Thanks.

Manolis