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Unread 12-07-2008, 09:42 AM   #1
mayo
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high pressure fuel pump for injected engine conversion

I bought a 35,000 mile 5.3 liter Vortec engine and acompanying automatic transmission for my 1980 CJ yesterday after giving up on the idea of replacing my original SR4 tranny. I am continuing to do research on this conversion and read that I will need to have a high presure fuel pump to deliver fuel to the injector rack. One suggestion was that I could find an external high pressure fuel pump with an aluminum finned body to disipate the excess heat of maintaining the high pressure as opposed to the "in the tank" models that use gasoline to cool the pump in the tank. I understand that "in the tank" model fuel delivery systems also have baffles in the tank to keep a constant supply of fuel to the pump and to the rack if in an incline since air in the system is not a good thing to have. -
-Question----Has anyone used an external high pressure pump successfully or would it be better to buy a used fuel tank from a later model Jeep already setup with internal pump and baffling(assuming this is the stock Jeep setup???)---regards, Mayo

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Unread 12-07-2008, 11:33 AM   #2
Catman
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I run a Airtex E8248 electric in-line pump with my 1997 5.7 vortec. I have it installed on the frame next to my park brake cable holder. I have duel Flowmaster mufflers that run within 3" of the pump and have a heat shield between them. I have been running this for a year and never had a problem on the street or hard trail use. I was mostly concerned with a "heat" problem, but it's worked great.
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Unread 12-07-2008, 12:16 PM   #3
Chrisfol82
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I use an external high pressure pump for my fuel injection. Its an E2000 from old Fords. Its good for something like 100 PSI. I havent had a prblem with it so far. Its just mounted on the frame rails as fasr back to the tank as it will go.
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Unread 12-07-2008, 12:34 PM   #4
coas
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I'm using E2182, capable 50GPH @ 110PSI, mounted on the frame just outside the fuel tank, about two feet from the exhaust tail pipe, no heat shield and it's working perfectly for a year now.
The pump is available at most parts stores and cost about 90$.

The advantage of the E2182 over other pumps, especially the E2000, is the 1/2 inlet, as opposed to 5/16 (e2000) or 3/8 at other pumps. The larger inlet allow better/easier priming.

The pump doesn't need aluminum finned body, the extra fuel flowing throe it cool it down. Stock Jeep 4.0L pump is capable of 21-24 GPH, the extra capacity of the external pumps cool it down.


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Unread 12-07-2008, 01:34 PM   #5
mayo
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one more question for Coas

Thanks to all that responded, gave me a start to do somemore digging on the subject. I have one question for Coas? My 1980 CJ7 obviously has no internal pump in the original tank, --will the E2182 or larger models self prime if attached at the lowest point in the frame rails or would i have to also install an inline hand pump like in the diesel setups I use to re-prime the system when I change diesel filters. ---Mayo

"The advantage of the E2182 over other pumps, especially the E2000, is the 1/2 inlet, as opposed to 5/16 (e2000) or 3/8 at other pumps. The larger inlet allow better/easier priming.

The pump doesn't need aluminum finned body, the extra fuel flowing throe it cool it down. Stock Jeep 4.0L pump is capable of 21-24 GPH, the extra capacity of the external pumps cool it down."
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Unread 12-07-2008, 01:52 PM   #6
coas
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No need for additional pump. Any of the pumps mention here can do the job as stand alone pump.
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Last edited by coas; 12-07-2008 at 02:34 PM..
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Unread 12-07-2008, 02:06 PM   #7
mayo
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great!

Thanks for the info, I am now a man with a plan, thanks again. I always appreciate when i don't have to reinvent the wheel in one of my projects,--kind regards, ----Mayo
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Unread 12-07-2008, 07:28 PM   #8
Shafe62
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I put a vortec 5300 in my jeep last year. I ended up running a walbro 255lph external pump. As for baffeling in the tank I ended up just running a fuel cell with built in baffles and foam everything has worked out good so far had it on some serious inclines.
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Unread 12-07-2008, 09:18 PM   #9
mayo
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off thread, but--

Are you pleased with the 5.3 Vortec and automatic tranny conversion in your Jeep, ----any regrets, things you would do differently if you had to do it over again???-----Mayo
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Unread 12-08-2008, 08:36 AM   #10
jfwireless
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I needed to increase the size of the fuel return line as it caused me back pressure, that causes the fuel pressure to move around with throttle , not a good thing for EFI.

Jim
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Unread 12-08-2008, 09:57 AM   #11
Redmanchew
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sorry for being late to the party.... i used Accel from summit.... biggest thing to remember is you have to supply 60psi to the inlet for the vortec motor or you will trip a low fuel PSI DTC.
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Unread 12-10-2008, 11:40 AM   #12
whittlecj
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coas (et al) - I plan on using your set up for my 4.0 swap. Can I use the stock metal fuel line or do I need to buy a replacement to get me up to the engine? If I do, any recommendations?

What regulator did you use?

Can you specify what filters as well? I'd really like to copy a known good set up.
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Last edited by whittlecj; 12-10-2008 at 11:57 AM.. Reason: Add more questions
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Unread 12-10-2008, 11:00 PM   #13
coas
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The stock fuel line is 5/16 and it will do fine, if you have the time you can install a new 3/8 fuel line but it's not an easy task with the tub on.

Your setup is OBD2 meaning no regulator at the fuel rail, mine is OBD1, the regulator is part of the fuel rail. Hesco sale the right regulator for your setup or you can get WJ fuel filter/regulator from any part store.



The filter I'm using is stock YJ filter, it has 3/8 inlet and 5/16 outlet which ensure a good flow for the FI and minimum pump load. The pre pump filter is G3 or G15.
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Unread 12-11-2008, 05:51 AM   #14
jfwireless
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coas View Post
The stock fuel line is 5/16 and it will do fine, if you have the time you can install a new 3/8 fuel line but it's not an easy task with the tub on.
.
I found replacing the fuel lines fairly easy. I just jacked up the drivers side of the TUB and removed the body mounts on that side. That let me just slip the new fuel lines in from the side. Worked out real easy. I went to a larger fuel and a larger return line both stainless steel.

Jim
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Unread 12-11-2008, 08:25 AM   #15
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coas View Post
The stock fuel line is 5/16 and it will do fine, if you have the time you can install a new 3/8 fuel line but it's not an easy task with the tub on.
OK, I redid all my lines and am redoing them a second time in the next month (rusted out) and thought I was really sure the stock Jeep fuel line was a 3/8" from the tank to the pump and 5/16" for the return line....
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