[jatepper]

Gang,

I am cleaning up my engine and removing vacuum switches and what not. I want to keep the bare essentials.

Being said, what do these vacuum switches go too and what needs to be done to remove them? I followed the vacuum tubes down to a solenoid on 1" (or close to that" rubber lines)


Keep in mind I am going to "nutter", so let me know if I need them. Should I still nutter if I am going to install the DUI ignition module?

[VACJ7]

I ditched it when I nuttered mine (http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/threesol.htm).

Once I nuttered, I removed or disconnected anything that fed the computer or was controlled by the computer.

http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/control.htm

[jatepper]

Originally Posted by pwa_fcva

I ditched it when I nuttered mine (http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/threesol.htm).

Once I nuttered, I removed or disconnected anything that fed the computer or was controlled by the computer.

http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/control.htm

Well, I was just told by John Strenk (very knowledgable) that since I removed my old carter bbd carb and added a dui hei module that I do not need to nutter.

Being said, I still want to remove all this vacuum crap. However, if I remove the lines to the pulse air, they will remain closed. Should I just remove the solenoids and connect the hoses together?

[jatepper]

Any more thoughts on removing the valves and just connecting the pulse air lines together with a fitting? I know this means they will be in the "open" position all the time, just not sure what to do with them since I want to get rid of as much vacuum crap as possible.

Is it OK to leave them in the open position like this?

[1986cj]

I was under the impression the nutter was to get rid of the computers control over the carter bbd stepper motor and it don't look like you have the carter on that one so the nutter bypass would do ? and installing the DUI ignition module realy don't think you would need any of it, the purge air system or the computer if you don't have to pass smog. Check out Howells info on installing the tbi set up. You gut all the purge air system and bend over and close off the leg for it that goes into the exhast pipe.

[jatepper]

Originally Posted by 1986cj

I was under the impression the nutter was to get rid of the computers control over the carter bbd stepper motor and it don't look like you have the carter on that one so the nutter bypass would do ? and installing the DUI ignition module realy don't think you would need any of it, the purge air system or the computer if you don't have to pass smog. Check out Howells info on installing the tbi set up. You gut all the purge air system and bend over and close off the leg for it that goes into the exhast pipe.

Yeah, Mr. Strenk informed me of that too, so I will no longer be doing it. No emissions here in Yuma County, so I am going to get rid of what I dont need to make the engine run better. I have to figure out what to do about the pulse air still. I will look in to howells tbi set up that you are talking about and find I will check in to closing off the legs.

If I were to use the weber air filter instead of buying the adaptor that allows me to use the stocke air cleaner, then I would have had to install adaptor fittings in to the air filter housing. I just want to make sure I do the right thing the first time without destroying anything else.

Thanks

[jatepper]

So, more thoughts on the pulse air system? What have you guys been doing to remove them of bypass the solenoid?

[keith460]

As far as the pulse air system goes, you can remove all the plumbing and cap off the ends. I put some rubber stoppers at the bottom of my stock air cleaner to plug those two holes and then capped off the exhaust pipe and Catalytic Converter. Removed all solenoid vacuum switches and any related vacuum tubing associated with the emissions except EGR, PCV and fuel vapor lines.

[BioTex]

I have the exact same Jeep as you. Here is what I did. I disconnected the pulse air syatem, and plugged the hoses. I removed the three valves on top of the valve cover. I removed the computer behind the glove box, I pulled that whole wiring harness out of the firewall, and disconnected it completely. I removed the ignition module and its harness since I also had an HEI.
Then I added back an electric choke wire to the red/white wire (more on this if you need it). I removed the wiring harness that has the test connections also. If I remember, it was all one harness. Everything emmissions is in that one big harness. I have a mechanical oil pressure guage. I removed the vacuum can under the battery. I boxed up all the parts, and have them for the next owner along with pictures.
I kept the stock air cleaner, but plugged all the openings. When I was done, I still had the charcoal canister, and EGR.

As far as the pulse air connector at the converter, I cut it and put a bolt/clamp in it.

Then I put on a weber carb, and that is when things got good.
I drove it for 3 months, and am now doing a body off restore and adding a V8.
I decided to not use an HEI on the 304, so I am putting the original Ign. module back on. Not a big deal though.
Hope this helps!
PS. I drove to phoenix to get my 85 CJ7. It is rust free

[jatepper]

Keith and BioTex,
Those were exactly the answers I was looking or.

Keith, do I still need the vacuum lines on the air filter housing? On your second picture, they are the vacuum lines going to the copper colored selenoids on the intake portion of the air cleaner. What vacuum source did you connect those to?

Also, with the adaptor for the stock air cleaner on top of the weber, it raises the entire air cleaner. Being said, what size spacers did you have to use on the valve cover to raise the mouting bracket to the appropriate height for the air cleaner?

Thanks guys. Been a big help so far.

[SuB8HaVeN]

Get rid of them all, they do something having to do with emissions. I stripped every vacuum line out of my engine bay except for the vacuum going to the distributor for timing advance. I'm not sure if the HEI distributor you have uses vacuum timing advance or not. Also if you have power brakes they need vacuum as well. Also obviously leave your PCV plumbing, but that's just 2 simple lines.

Basically any vacuum line, and any device the vacuum lines are connected to, pull them and chuck them. I removed those solenoids, the one on the left passenger side should run to the exhaust pipe. I cut it all out when I installed my header. There's some stuff that runs into the intake manifold but I plugged it all up with fittings and plugs.

[keith460]

Originally Posted by jatepper

Keith, do I still need the vacuum lines on the air filter housing? On your second picture, they are the vacuum lines going to the copper colored selenoids on the intake portion of the air cleaner. What vacuum source did you connect those to?

Also, with the adaptor for the stock air cleaner on top of the weber, it raises the entire air cleaner. Being said, what size spacers did you have to use on the valve cover to raise the mouting bracket to the appropriate height for the air cleaner?

If you are going to use the stock air cleaner assembly then you will need to use the TAC system and hook up the vacuum lines to "Full Manifold Vacuum" source. Those two items are not solenoids, the one on the right is the TAC Vacuum Motor and the one on the left is a Trap Door Vacuum Motor. The thermostatically controlled air cleaner (TAC) system provides heated air for the carburetor during engine warm-up.

I used 1" long spacers to raise the air cleaner assembly off of the new Aluminum Valve Cover. If you are still using the factory plastic cover, then the height might be different. The stock Carter BBD from intake mainfold to top of carb is 4-7/8". Weber carb, with adapters, from intake manifold to top of carb is 5-7/8". Therefore, 1" spacers were needed.

[John Strenk]

Originally Posted by SuB8HaVeN

Get rid of them all, they do something having to do with emissions. I stripped every vacuum line out of my engine bay except for the vacuum going to the distributor for timing advance. I'm not sure if the HEI distributor you have uses vacuum timing advance or not. Also if you have power brakes they need vacuum as well. Also obviously leave your PCV plumbing, but that's just 2 simple lines.

Basically any vacuum line, and any device the vacuum lines are connected to, pull them and chuck them. I removed those solenoids, the one on the left passenger side should run to the exhaust pipe. I cut it all out when I installed my header. There's some stuff that runs into the intake manifold but I plugged it all up with fittings and plugs.

Well as Kieth mentioned you will need to hook up the two vacuum lines to run the stock air cleaner. Both are no brainers. One Opens up a flap that normally cuts off the air to the carb when the engine is off. You can remove the flap if you like but it does keep the rodents out of the air cleaner housing.

The other switches a flap to draw air from the exhaust manifold to prevent icing in the carb until things warm up. Wont even miss it in the summer but in the winter it helps a lot.

I just run mine off a manifold port on my intake manifold. Everything opens when it should.

No Biggie.

[SuB8HaVeN]

I'm running a Weber 34 so the stock air filter assembly was trashed as well in favor of the smaller, cleaner open filter that came with the kit. I believe jatepper is running the Weber 38 or 32/36, I forget, so he probably would not be using the stock air intake system either.

[jatepper]

Originally Posted by SuB8HaVeN

I believe jatepper is running the Weber 38 or 32/36, I forget, so he probably would not be using the stock air intake system either.

I bought the adaptor, so I am using the stock air intake system. Still having problems. Errrrrrrr!