Help on removing rear drum - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 02-07-2010, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
Dborns
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Help on removing rear drum

I've searched the forum's and found a post about removing the rear drum on my Cj, but I still can't get the thing to budge. I've removed the two rubber grommets and can feel the adjusting star, but when I try to turn it with a screwdriver, it doesn't fell like its moving. It feels more like I'm tearing it up. Any advice on how to get the adjuster off?

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post #2 of 13 Old 02-07-2010, 01:38 PM
ReconRabbit
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Did you remember to take the three phillips head screws out thst attach the drum to the axle flange? If so then sometimes a few whacks on the drum with a bfh may be in order.

If your Jeeps not leaking it's out of fluids.
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post #3 of 13 Old 02-07-2010, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
Dborns
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No, I didn't see anything in the posts or my Haynes manual that said to remove screws. Are they on the back, (flange), on on the face of the drum itself?
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post #4 of 13 Old 02-07-2010, 01:44 PM
mmerlina
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It's possible that the adjuster is frozen, sometimes they freeze up. The last time I had my drums apart I freed mine up and put some anti-seize on the threads, hopefully that'll work.

However for you, if it's frozen, like said above, you'll just need to beat the drum off with a hammer. The only thing really holding it is the two brake shoes are pushing outward on it.

Mike

1986 Jeep CJ7 (photos)
Remanufactured 258, ARB lockers front & rear, 4.10 Yukon gears, 35x12.5" Super Swamper SSR's, Motorcraft 2100, 4.5" Rubicon Express Extreme-Duty lift, York 210 OBA, Big Daddy steering, Tatton rear CV driveshaft, Herculined interior, TJ flares, lots of body & upholstery work
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post #5 of 13 Old 02-07-2010, 02:16 PM
rishar1
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Yup I had to take a sledge hammer to mine last week. The drum was rusted tight to the axle flange. BFH all the way.

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post #6 of 13 Old 02-07-2010, 02:19 PM
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All little judiciously applied heat, from an Oxy-Acetylene or Propane torch, will quite often make things work!

"Damn Everything But The Circus..." e.e.c.
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post #7 of 13 Old 02-07-2010, 11:57 PM
bigjoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dborns View Post
No, I didn't see anything in the posts or my Haynes manual that said to remove screws. Are they on the back, (flange), on on the face of the drum itself?
The screws are on the front of the drum. There are three of them. FYI don't put them back in once they are out. You do not need them.

Seems like everyday is a Monday.

77' CJ-7 83' Chevy K10
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post #8 of 13 Old 02-08-2010, 04:21 AM
kercher
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i am rebuilding a 14b and after fighting with a rusted adjuster screw for a day, i just cut the drums in half with my angle grinder.
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post #9 of 13 Old 02-08-2010, 04:44 AM
mmerlina
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Haha.. I guess that works too!

Mike

1986 Jeep CJ7 (photos)
Remanufactured 258, ARB lockers front & rear, 4.10 Yukon gears, 35x12.5" Super Swamper SSR's, Motorcraft 2100, 4.5" Rubicon Express Extreme-Duty lift, York 210 OBA, Big Daddy steering, Tatton rear CV driveshaft, Herculined interior, TJ flares, lots of body & upholstery work
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post #10 of 13 Old 02-09-2010, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
Dborns
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Ok, I managed to get the drivers side drum off after removing the three screws. On the pass. side, the screws stripped out after working on them for awhile so I had to drill them out. I pulled the drum and nothing. Its on there and isn't going to move. I took a hammer to it and that didn't help. I even took a 2x4 and passed it through underneath, placing it on the lip of the drum, and hammered it from the drivers side, and it didn't budge. Is there something different on the pass. side?
If its rusted to the axle, whats my best bet? Also, if I take a propane torch to it, where is the best place to apply heat?
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post #11 of 13 Old 02-09-2010, 06:59 PM
-AC-
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Where the flat part of the drum rusts itself to the wheel mounting surface of the axel. AKA between the lug studs and around the associated area...

"Damn Everything But The Circus..." e.e.c.
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post #12 of 13 Old 02-18-2010, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
Dborns
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Thanks for the help! It took awhile but I just sprayed all the mating surfaces with PB Blaster and let it sit in for a long time. I also used a propane torch around the 5 bolts and the axle. After awhile of that, and a little help from a rubber mallet, it popped off.
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post #13 of 13 Old 02-18-2010, 11:07 PM
bigjoe
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Glad to hear you got it off. Just an FYI in case it's the first time your working on drum brakes. Pull only one side apart at a time. This way you can see where all parts,springs, etc. go on the backing plate when putting back together. If not the first time enjoy doing it with an extra cold one.

Seems like everyday is a Monday.

77' CJ-7 83' Chevy K10
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