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Dborns 02-07-2010 02:28 PM

Help on removing rear drum
72 Attachment(s)
I've searched the forum's and found a post about removing the rear drum on my Cj, but I still can't get the thing to budge. I've removed the two rubber grommets and can feel the adjusting star, but when I try to turn it with a screwdriver, it doesn't fell like its moving. It feels more like I'm tearing it up. Any advice on how to get the adjuster off?

ReconRabbit 02-07-2010 02:38 PM

Did you remember to take the three phillips head screws out thst attach the drum to the axle flange? If so then sometimes a few whacks on the drum with a bfh may be in order.

Dborns 02-07-2010 02:42 PM

72 Attachment(s)
No, I didn't see anything in the posts or my Haynes manual that said to remove screws. Are they on the back, (flange), on on the face of the drum itself?

mmerlina 02-07-2010 02:44 PM

It's possible that the adjuster is frozen, sometimes they freeze up. The last time I had my drums apart I freed mine up and put some anti-seize on the threads, hopefully that'll work.

However for you, if it's frozen, like said above, you'll just need to beat the drum off with a hammer. The only thing really holding it is the two brake shoes are pushing outward on it.

rishar1 02-07-2010 03:16 PM

Yup I had to take a sledge hammer to mine last week. The drum was rusted tight to the axle flange. BFH all the way.

-AC- 02-07-2010 03:19 PM

All little judiciously applied heat, from an Oxy-Acetylene or Propane torch, will quite often make things work!

bigjoe 02-08-2010 12:57 AM


Originally Posted by Dborns (Post 8845268)
No, I didn't see anything in the posts or my Haynes manual that said to remove screws. Are they on the back, (flange), on on the face of the drum itself?

The screws are on the front of the drum. There are three of them. FYI don't put them back in once they are out. You do not need them.

kercher 02-08-2010 05:21 AM

i am rebuilding a 14b and after fighting with a rusted adjuster screw for a day, i just cut the drums in half with my angle grinder.

mmerlina 02-08-2010 05:44 AM

Haha.. I guess that works too!

Dborns 02-09-2010 05:07 PM

72 Attachment(s)
Ok, I managed to get the drivers side drum off after removing the three screws. On the pass. side, the screws stripped out after working on them for awhile so I had to drill them out. I pulled the drum and nothing. Its on there and isn't going to move. I took a hammer to it and that didn't help. I even took a 2x4 and passed it through underneath, placing it on the lip of the drum, and hammered it from the drivers side, and it didn't budge. Is there something different on the pass. side?
If its rusted to the axle, whats my best bet? Also, if I take a propane torch to it, where is the best place to apply heat?

-AC- 02-09-2010 07:59 PM

Where the flat part of the drum rusts itself to the wheel mounting surface of the axel. AKA between the lug studs and around the associated area...

Dborns 02-18-2010 05:46 PM

72 Attachment(s)
Thanks for the help! It took awhile but I just sprayed all the mating surfaces with PB Blaster and let it sit in for a long time. I also used a propane torch around the 5 bolts and the axle. After awhile of that, and a little help from a rubber mallet, it popped off.

bigjoe 02-19-2010 12:07 AM

Glad to hear you got it off. Just an FYI in case it's the first time your working on drum brakes. Pull only one side apart at a time. This way you can see where all parts,springs, etc. go on the backing plate when putting back together. If not the first time enjoy doing it with an extra cold one.

The time now is 12:40 AM.

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