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Savvy/Currie Aluminum Control ArmsRockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits ZONE 4.25" combo lift for TJ available at Rockridge4w

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Unread 05-09-2013, 07:35 PM   #106
2Xtreme
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
You should hook up a vacuum gauge and see what you readings are. At idle, with your altitude, you should have at least 18inHG. And a steady needle if the engine is sound.
Will do.... sort of a 'base-line'.
Granted, I don't expect the needle to be too steady. This thing is 34 years old with who knows HOW many miles on it or how it was cared for, or not....

Quote:
Originally Posted by lucdog View Post
...It won't hurt to take the Q-trac vacuum line out of the equation, just cap it if you do.
Was thinking this, too. And good call on marking the Qtrac lines.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
You need to remove the vacuum advance hose and plug it and drive your jeep and see what happens to the pinging.
Will do this before any of the other vac source changes.

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Unread 05-09-2013, 11:23 PM   #107
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Ya know when I first started working on cars in the early 70's, I remember thinking why plug the vacuum line to the distributor. I didn't know ***** from shineola. At some point in time I realized I needed to plug the line coming from the vacuum source. So between the first tinkering and when I found out the correct way, I would set timing with the light, then drive a ways, leave the engine running and turn the distributor . I did this numerous times until the car (1962 Chevy impala with a 327 and a power glide tranny) ran the best.
I didn't have a clue at that point in time what manifold vacuum was, or what it did. To my credit, I was just a young lad of 17. I did know how to stab a distributor and find TDC. My dad knew less than I did, had it not been for High School shop classes I'd have been totally lost.
Remember this was before Calculators when math equations were done on a slide rule. Didn't have a clue about that either, it did make a great straight edge though.

Sorry about being so long winded, I like to make a short story long, and I must be in a Reminiscing mood tonight.

Edit, still have the slide rule, and still don't have a clue.
Bill
Moral of the story, make sure the vacuum line is plugged coming from the carb.
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1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 05-10-2013, 12:39 AM   #108
86cj74.2L
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Their is a oil wick in the center of the distributor shaft when you remove the rotor. It's to get a few drops of oil at oil change. It is to keep the fly-weights from sticking.

If your carb was lean to the point of detonation and melting pistons the throttle would feel spongy. And the motor would be lazy to respond. Unless a manifold leak is only effecting 1 cylinder. Holley's like backfiring out the carb when things lean out to that extreme in my experience.
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Unread 05-10-2013, 03:17 AM   #109
John Strenk
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Is it a full moon?
Am I going to have shut down another post?
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Unread 05-10-2013, 07:44 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk
Is it a full moon?
Am I going to have shut down another post?
I think you have the wrong thread John , unless it was my long winded post.

Ok never mind, but it was yesterday, I think it's over and things are back on track.
__________________
1957 WILLYS pickup, needs work.
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac trail Jeep.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7 pretty weekend and sometimes to work Driver in the summer, My first rebuild, if the Q-trac and 5 are broke, this one is the one to take. its just as capable as the other 2, except nice paint.
1984 Grand Wagoneer, 1 ton axles, great 360/727, and a big a$& tree fell on it .
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ conversion.
2005 TJ Rubicon.
2011 Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4, Mrs. LUCDOG's DD.
Lots of parts not for sale, i'm a hoarder.
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Unread 05-10-2013, 07:50 AM   #111
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Or just grant the poster, who made the threats in this thread, his wish/request to be deleted from this forum.
LG
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Unread 05-10-2013, 08:32 PM   #112
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OK, after going through everyone's recommendations I've come up with the following plan of attack.

1. Replace:
Cap
Wires
Rotor
Plugs (Autolite 5503)
Thermostat (180 degree)
Check manual advance springs
>>test drive<<

2. Check vac readings at idle (‘base-line’)
Should be at least 18inHG and a steady needle

3. Disconnect vac advance from dist. and plug.
>>test drive<<

4. Disconnect Dizzy line from Spark Port. Plug Port.
Connect to port in intake manifold behind carb
>>test drive<<

5. Check for Vac leaks
Address as necessary

4. Find TDC per Shawn’s link or vacuum gauge method
Set timing from there.

Let me know if I've missed anything...
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Unread 05-10-2013, 08:36 PM   #113
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You said you were going to use propane to look for vacuum leaks. The air from the fan will all but render it useless as it blows it away. Unless you use a hose to get it against everything.

Carb cleaner or brake clean work and shoot their spray much farther. With enough concentration/volume to be effective.
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Unread 05-10-2013, 08:51 PM   #114
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2Xtreme. For what it's worth I just had a very similar problem. Well after I recurved my dizzy (changed one of the springs to the lightest in the kit)and fixed my exhaust leak I was having pinging under load in every gear. Now I figured my total advance was coming in too early so I changed the other spring that came in the dizzy to the medium spring from the kit. This fixed my ping and moved my curve up the rpm alittle. Please note this was all done with a CRT dizzy and not stock though. With that said when your checking things out it might help to start out with plotting your curve so you have something to work off of. It could be one of the springs in you dizzy has gotten weak or broke. Hope you figure it out.

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Unread 05-10-2013, 08:57 PM   #115
LumpyGrits
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There is no app for AL 5503's w/Jeep. Where did you get that app.
http://www.autolitecatalog.com/PartD...px?b=A&pn=5503
NEVER/EVER use LPG to hunt for vac. leaks for god-shakes.
Soapy water is much better for this and you can see where the bubbles go.....AND IT WON'T EXPLODE if you have an arc off your SP wires etc. that you don't know about.......
You want the 195* t'stat.

LG
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Unread 05-10-2013, 09:25 PM   #116
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FWIW... and I'm not trying to stir the pot, so don't take it that way, propane is a great way to find a vacuum leak. It's quick, easy, and it doesn't make a mess. It sucks right in through the leak and smooths the engine out instantly. It won't explode, and the exhaust manifold doesn't get hot enough to ignite the tip, so there is no flame either. The old methods of carb cleaner, etc, are tried and true, and there's nothing wrong using them. It's just preference.

Lumpy... your idea of soapy water is also a good method for finding leaks, but not vacuum leaks. There won't be any bubbles.
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Unread 05-10-2013, 09:44 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
There is no app for AL 5503's w/Jeep. Where did you get that app.
http://www.autolitecatalog.com/PartD...px?b=A&pn=5503
NEVER/EVER use LPG to hunt for vac. leaks for god-shakes.
Soapy water is much better for this and you can see where the bubbles go.....AND IT WON'T EXPLODE if you have an arc off your SP wires etc. that you don't know about.......
You want the 195* t'stat.

LG
The 5503's (or equivelent) was recommended by Shawn in a post above:

Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
...Since new plugs are on the menu, you might want to drop down a couple of heat ranges and do something like an Autolite 5503 or equivalent....Shawn
There are many, many credible recommendations on the internet regarding using propane to find vac leaks.

BUT, if it is going to a point to booger up this thread, I will use another method. Probably the carb cleaner thing, because I honestly don't have much faith in the soap bubbles.

The 180 degree Tstat was recommended above, also.
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Unread 05-10-2013, 11:04 PM   #118
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme View Post
OK, after going through everyone's recommendations I've come up with the following plan of attack.

1. Replace:
Cap
Wires
Rotor
Plugs (Autolite 5503)
Thermostat (180 degree)
Check manual advance springs
>>test drive<<

2. Check vac readings at idle (‘base-line’)
Should be at least 18inHG and a steady needle

3. Disconnect vac advance from dist. and plug.
>>test drive<<

4. Disconnect Dizzy line from Spark Port. Plug Port.
Connect to port in intake manifold behind carb
>>test drive<<

5. Check for Vac leaks
Address as necessary

4. Find TDC per Shawn’s link or vacuum gauge method
Set timing from there.

Let me know if I've missed anything...
Looking forward to the results of the above list.

Matt
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Unread 05-11-2013, 04:24 AM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Looking forward to the results of the above list.

Matt
Yes. Sounds like a solid plan


Shawn
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Unread 05-11-2013, 07:22 AM   #120
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i also thought that but

Quote:
Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
FWIW... and I'm not trying to stir the pot, so don't take it that way, propane is a great way to find a vacuum leak. It's quick, easy, and it doesn't make a mess. It sucks right in through the leak and smooths the engine out instantly. It won't explode, and the exhaust manifold doesn't get hot enough to ignite the tip, so there is no flame either. The old methods of carb cleaner, etc, are tried and true, and there's nothing wrong using them. It's just preference.

Lumpy... your idea of soapy water is also a good method for finding leaks, but not vacuum leaks. There won't be any bubbles.
he is saying if the bubbles "dissappear" there is a leak. not sure if it will work on a hot manifold but it is a non volatile way of finding a leak.
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