Help me solve this blasted Pinging.... - Page 52 - JeepForum.com

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post #766 of 844 Old 07-20-2013, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
2Xtreme
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Went to the garage today with the intention of doing a proper compression test and a leakdown test.

Wanted to find/ seal whatever vac leak was all of a sudden causing an oscillating rpm at idle first.

Replaced the carb base gaskets but STILL can't find the leak.

And the oscillating rpm makes it almost impossible to tell if the spray is what's causing the revs.

Got aggravated and locked up the garage....


Wheel, Fix, repeatů.
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post #767 of 844 Old 07-20-2013, 04:25 PM
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When its oscillating take a vice grip and pinch off the PCV hose.

If the idle surge stops its too much blowby diluted with exhaust gasses. Which means tired engine or stuck rings.

Edit.

Stuck rings can be helped by a piston soak with marvel oil or some ATF trans fluid mixed with acetone poured in the cylinders.

Or put a qt of ATF in your crank case 500 miles before a oil change.
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post #768 of 844 Old 07-20-2013, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L
When its oscillating take a vice grip and pinch off the PCV hose.

If the idle surge stops its too much blowby diluted with exhaust gasses. Which means tired engine or stuck rings.

Edit.

Stuck rings can be helped by a piston soak with marvel oil or some ATF trans fluid mixed with acetone poured in the cylinders.

Or put a qt of ATF in your crank case 500 miles before a oil change.
I'll give that a shot next stop at the garage.
Also compression and leakdown tests.

I think once I do these I will have a good idea of where to turn next, which I assume will be a machine shop....

Wheel, Fix, repeatů.
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post #769 of 844 Old 07-21-2013, 04:28 PM
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Do a leak down first. You will get a good idea of what to do next. A wide open compression test would be interesting too.

Then possibly a piston soak, carb rejet, a little driving and then another leak down test to see if anything got better.
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post #770 of 844 Old 07-21-2013, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
Do a leak down first. You will get a good idea of what to do next...
For those that have done leak down tests in the past, is it possible to turn the crank AND reach the rearmost cylinders (to verify piston is at top of compression stroke) at the same time?
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post #771 of 844 Old 07-22-2013, 04:14 AM
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Well I've done it with the valve cover off and watched the valves to make sure they were both closed and then just watched the timing marks to be sure I was at TDC.
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post #772 of 844 Old 07-22-2013, 04:56 AM Thread Starter
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Well I've done it with the valve cover off and watched the valves to make sure they were both closed and then just watched the timing marks to be sure I was at TDC.
I thought about that.

But with all the trouble I had with getting the VC to seal in the past, I don't want to remove it until I have a new one. And I don't want to spend the money on a new one until I have a better idea what is going on with this engine and if it's worth keeping.

Think I will use my vac gauge to verify the pistons are at TDC.
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post #773 of 844 Old 07-22-2013, 06:04 AM
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Don't you have a piston stop?


Shawn

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post #774 of 844 Old 07-22-2013, 06:42 AM Thread Starter
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Don't you have a piston stop?
Yup.
The one you recommended.
With the thru hole.
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post #775 of 844 Old 07-22-2013, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme View Post
Yup.
The one you recommended.
With the thru hole.
Well throw it in number 6 and find TDC

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post #776 of 844 Old 07-23-2013, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
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This thing is something else....

Went to the garage last night to do leakdown test.

But wanted to check a few other things out first.
In the process, I noticed the fluctuating idle had stopped.
Stopped. Kaput. Gone.

The ONLY thing I had done between when it started and yesterday was adjust the float levels, one of which was way low.

This is what get's me....
When we started this whole thing, I had one float that was just right and one that was a little higher. But I left them as is.
Now, all of a sudden, I had one that was good and one that was way low.

So I have 2 questions:
Is this indicative of a sticking float?
Specifically, how would this affect what we have seen so far/ been trying to accomplish?

Thanks in advance!

2X
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post #777 of 844 Old 07-23-2013, 07:53 AM
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Ignore everything bugging you and do a leak down.

How long was engine running when you checked float height. You check it running. Not stopped.

Pull the sight plug and good height is when you pump the fender enough to shake the jeep and gas sloshes out.
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post #778 of 844 Old 07-23-2013, 08:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
Ignore everything bugging you and do a leak down.
Yeah, I do have to get that done.
Ran out of time last night...
Maybe tonight. Tomorrow definitely (I hope).

Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
How long was engine running when you checked float height. You check it running. Not stopped.
Really? Set floats with it running?

Holley's doc said nothing about the engine running except "This operation is
difficult to do accurately on a rough idling vehicle".

I guess that would make a difference....
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post #779 of 844 Old 07-23-2013, 09:44 AM
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Yes it has to be running.
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post #780 of 844 Old 07-23-2013, 09:48 AM
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The smoking lamp is out!!
Maybe push it out side of the house or garage.

But yeah, I set them running also. But god, that had to be 35 years ago. Funny how it hasn't changed much since then...
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