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Unread 07-12-2013, 07:15 AM   #706
2Xtreme
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L
Those numbers that high to mean too much carbon buildup to me. The fact that they would be higher if you held the throttle would make it worse. Detonation wise.

Are you running high test or 87?

Look for a deposit remover additive for your gas.
87 octane.
If tried Premium with no luck.

It seems to me that I probably have too much carbon buildup for an additive to do much good.
I've never seen much improvement with any kind of additive to treat anything.
That said, if an additive were to do the trick, it would have to be one helluva strong one...

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Unread 07-12-2013, 08:32 AM   #707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk

Like the rest of us, you lost it when you bought a CJ
I thought it left when one got married?

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Unread 07-12-2013, 08:40 AM   #708
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Originally Posted by fourbtgait View Post
I thought it left when one got married?
It does...

>> Happily Divorced since '96 <<

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Unread 07-12-2013, 01:04 PM   #709
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That's the reality of it. My detonation was so bad from carbon build up it actually would ping while in active knock retard.

Plus there was so much carbon in there that the carbon on the pistons hit the carbon in the combustion chamber and produced a knock at startup loud enough to have people at work staring at me. Search "Cold Knock"

I was able to make the detonation manageable but never completely gone until I removed the head for my MPG modified one. The way in looked I was only successful removing 30% of the carbon.

AND I threw everything at it. MMO piston soaks, many water washes. The GM upper engine cleaner. Over the coarse of a whole summer.
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Unread 07-12-2013, 01:09 PM   #710
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And pulling the head to clean everything up is not that bad compared to my Saturn with a cam in the head and no room in the engine bay to get at the timing Chain and cover.
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Unread 07-12-2013, 02:12 PM   #711
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I could probably pull the head to clean it up,but once it's open god knows what I'll find wrong with it.....
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Unread 07-12-2013, 02:42 PM   #712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme
I could probably pull the head to clean it up,but once it's open god knows what I'll find wrong with it.....
If you go that far do your timing chain just for general purpose.
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Unread 07-12-2013, 03:32 PM   #713
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Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
If you go that far do your timing chain just for general purpose.
Roger that.

IF I were to pull the head to attempt to rid myself of this carbon mess, what would be the procedure?

Any special tools required?
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Unread 07-12-2013, 04:26 PM   #714
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I had my fresh head already to go..........so all I needed to do was scrape the carbon off the pistons tops.

I used a gasket scraper from Lyle that uses a razor blade. Just rotated piston to top and scraped away while sucking chunks of carbon up with shop vac.

If you have another engine lying around, remove the head and have it gone over. That's one last thing you need to do later........just pull it off and put it on the bottom end (short block) when you have that rebuild. Just make sure your head and the donor motors head are swappable. In the mid 80's they went from a 1/2 inch head bolt to a 7/16 if I remember.

Go to staples and buy a box of white labels with the strings and mark everything you remove so you know where it goes.

Head bolts on the 258 are not torque to yield. But they are not expensive to replace if their original.
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Unread 07-13-2013, 06:05 PM   #715
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Volvo and BMW both make engine oil separators. Search them. You may decide to install one of those instead of making one. But it will require a hole for a return line in the oil pan. The hole was the only thing keeping me from doing it.

If I ever have to drop the pan its getting done. I really like how both manufactures do it. Though they are know where similar. I was leaning towards the Volvo.
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Unread 07-13-2013, 07:20 PM   #716
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What is this???
It's the first thing you throw away AFTER you buy a CJ.

Next goes your savings account.......

LG
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Unread 07-15-2013, 12:45 PM   #717
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UPDATE:
I think I am onto something with the knocking/ pinging/ whatever.
Want to verify a few more things before I post anything that may get me crucified, ridiculed, insulted, etc.

QUESTION (regarding crankcase pressure issue):

What do you guys think of the information I found in this forum, especially those my member 540 RAT?
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=143900

I am wondering if eliminating the PCV system altogether would help my situation. With a breather installed in the VC, it bleeds like a stuck pig.
Remove the breather, leak all but stops. Maybe the breather is too small?

Shawn, you're are a member over there.
Is this guy as credible as he sounds?

Thoughts??
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Unread 07-15-2013, 01:35 PM   #718
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You can vent both holes to atmosphere. But its not going to get rid of the carbon already built up on the pistons and combustion chambers.

Though spending time on the highway at 3000 rpm may help remove some. After you remove the source of the carbon.
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Unread 07-15-2013, 01:46 PM   #719
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Rat's been called out more times than I can remember.

I've said this more than once and I could most-certainly be wrong but I'd drill and tap the adapter plate so the PCV inlet is in the front where 99% of the air flow is and see what happens. That Offy intake is a goofy azz design.

When the PCV is working correctly, if you pull it out of the valve cover and stick your finger over the hole, it should 'snap' and drop the idle speed a little. Every engine is different but at least a noticeable change in the idle. With it and the breather removed, you'll likely (at least on an older engine) get visible vapor from the holes in the valve cover, assuming the fan doesn't interfere. With the PCV plugged back in to the valve cover, the vapor from the remaining hole should disappear. That's the PCVs job.

If your leak goes away by simply removing the breather (assuming the PCV is hooked up) either the breather is plugged up and the PCV can't keep up with crank case pressure, or something's haywire on the PCV side of things.

Maybe it's just me but the way your PCV is hooked up with that funky manifold just rubs me wrong.

If you do decide to just scrub the PCV system altogether, just be prepared for an oil film all over your engine compartment and oil changes every thousand or so miles or an elaborate catch can that you have to drain pretty often and only a slight oil film all over the place

Did you mess with the vacuum advance adjustment any further?


Shawn

P.s. I looked up a bore scope for you in hopes of it confirming whether or not you had a half-inch of carbon build-up without pulling the head but the damn thing was pushing $300 or something. Doh!
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Unread 07-15-2013, 02:00 PM   #720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
If your leak goes away by simply removing the breather (assuming the PCV is hooked up) either the breather is plugged up and the PCV can't keep up with crank case pressure, or something's haywire on the PCV side of things.
As far as a 'system', is the PCV 'system (at this point, anyway) just two holes in the valve cover, one with a valve (PCV) and one with a breather?

And is the breather suppose dto be pulling air in, or 'exhausting' it.

Pretty sure the breather I bought is FUBAR'd.
It was one of those small ricer ones, and the amount of stuff going through it, I am sure clogged it quickly.
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