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Savvy Aluminum Gas Tank SkidFOX IFP Shocks for 4" Lift TJ/LJ - Special!Jeep Gear & Install Packages!

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Unread 07-11-2013, 07:00 PM   #691
86cj74.2L
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Grammys 86 is front PCV and the rear goes to the fresh air filter in the aircleaner.

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Unread 07-11-2013, 07:06 PM   #692
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As for compression check I'd do it cold then warm it up and do it hot.

Also just as a reminder.

1) a fully charged battery. Even having a decently sized battery charger on it while your testing is good.

2) all spark plugs removed.

3) throttle held wide open or wired open during testing.

4) remove the positive wire from the ignition coil or make sure the spark has a place to go other then jumping out of the coil and onto the green ground wire from the ignition module.

Enough do this wrong I always feel inclined to mention these steps. A lot forget steps 2 and 3 and start to panic thinking they have low compression.
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Unread 07-11-2013, 07:15 PM   #693
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Spent some time at the garage tonight.
Ran a full gallon of sits tilled water through the engine, with no improvement.

Then did a compression test. Did the test according to the information I found here: http://www.linnbenton.edu/auto/perform/compress.html

That site states: Record the pressure reading for the "First Puff" which is the first compression cycle. This is useful for determining where the compression is leaking should it be low. Crank the engine for five full "puffs" or compression cycles. Then record the final compression reading. Your gauge will hold the final or highest compression reading until you release it. Record the first puff and final compression pressures for each cylinder.

My results are as follows ('first puff') are the top numbers

1st compression: 60. 60. 120. 120. 75. 120
FRONT
Final compression: 170. 170. 170. 170. 170. 160

The site also states:
The First Puff should be at least 50% of the fifth puff on that cylinder. If the first puff is well over 50% of the final reading, but the final reading is low, that cylinder is likely leaking past the valves.

But it says nothing about the opposite situation for first compression.

Final compression numbers look good. Don't know what the initial numbers indicate....

Thoughts?

SCRATCH THAT!

Did it warm and forgot to hold throttle open..... Ugh!
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Unread 07-11-2013, 07:54 PM   #694
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170 with a closed throttle? This could be interesting
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Unread 07-11-2013, 07:57 PM   #695
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Hopefully hot, throttle wide open, all plugs removed, and crank it until the needle stops rising its not much more.

I will be honest saying I did not think it would be even close to 170. And that number with a closed throttle and only cranking 5 times instead of cranking until the needle stops to me is really high.

I was expecting 120 to 150 doing it the way I described.

Do it hot, throttle open, all plugs removed, and don't stop until the needle stops moving. Hopefully you don't see 190 to 200.
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Unread 07-11-2013, 08:13 PM   #696
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Crap!

Well, I guess I'll do it cold first.

Then do it hot, cranking until it stops....

Another waste of a damn night at the garage......
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Unread 07-11-2013, 08:15 PM   #697
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There's really no sense in doing it cold.
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Unread 07-11-2013, 08:41 PM   #698
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Ok, teach an old man who finds horses easier to train than working on a motor.

Why throttle wide open when doing the compression test? First time I've heard this. I can understand making sure the choke is open.

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Unread 07-11-2013, 09:30 PM   #699
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourbtgait
Ok, teach an old man who finds horses easier to train than working on a motor.

Why throttle wide open when doing the compression test? First time I've heard this. I can understand making sure the choke is open.

Russell

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With the throttle closed it limits airflow. Or air volume per intake stroke. It allows the engine to spin a faster rpm also because its not sucking against the closed throttle plate.


There are or were a few "how too" places that told you how to do a compression test. But either failed to mention pulling out the plugs, or holding the throttle open. And that info gets passed along Untill its all over the place to the point you find that "how too" as easily as the correct way.

As a small minor note.......some manufactures even spec a minimum cranking rpm while doing the test. And some (like Saturn)want you to count how many times the needle jumps before it stops moving. Max of 15 comes to mind..........
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Unread 07-11-2013, 09:57 PM   #700
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Understood now. I forgot about the throttle plate, no one mentioned that years ago.
Common sense is to pull all the plugs though.

Thank you.
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Unread 07-12-2013, 03:45 AM   #701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourbtgait View Post
Common sense is to....
What is this???
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Unread 07-12-2013, 04:42 AM   #702
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Forgot to mention this earlier...

I put the correct PCV valve in and removed the breather, letting the crankcase vent to atmosphere. The leak at the dipstick all but stopped.

I suspect it was the open vent that that did the trick. But since I did both at the same time, I don't know for sure.

Will have to see what happens when input the breather back on. Obviously, I can't run it with an open VC, but this is probably why the OP had just a tube on there....
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Unread 07-12-2013, 04:48 AM   #703
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourbtgait View Post
...
Common sense ....

Thank you.
Russell

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme View Post
What is this???
Like the rest of us, you lost it when you bought a CJ
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Unread 07-12-2013, 06:21 AM   #704
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I think the time has come.....

I am about out of options at this point.
Yes, we managed to get the intake leak satisfied and the carb dialed in pretty tight.
My vacuum is good. And steady.

Initial compression numbers looked even across the board. They may be a little higher if I had done the test properly (until needle stopped), possibly another 10-20psi per cylinder, based on the way the needle was acting.

Running distilled water through the engine in hopes of cleaning out some of the carbon yielded no improvement.

Seems to me, my last hope right now is to hope I find a broken advance spring when I tear into the distributor. Although possible, thatís probably unlikely. Thatís just not how my luck runs.

Short of that, it looks like itís time to make a decision Ė Replace/ Rebuild/ Upgrade.

My first thought, in the short term, is that I have a spare 258 sitting in the corner of my garage that I got with a pile of parts. I could give it the once over, swap it in, and still have a driver while I have my current motor rebuilt. BUT, I took a quick look at that motor last night and it is covered with a thick layer of oil/ grease/ grime, which probably indicates a serious leak somewhere.

Then, I thought about seeing if I could pick up another 258 to use while my current motor is rebuilt. But to what end? I could end up with a motor in the same or worse condition.

The other, and seemingly best, option is that I have had a good 304 offered to me for the price of delivery. Obviously there is some research and effort to be put in before this upgrade, as well as some costs involved.

I have to say I thought we were onto something once we got the intake leak/ carb situations straightened out.
But now I am about ready to admit defeat.

Can you guys think of any of your suggestions that I have overlooked or failed to address?

Thoughts?
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Unread 07-12-2013, 06:52 AM   #705
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Those numbers that high to mean too much carbon buildup to me. The fact that they would be higher if you held the throttle would make it worse. Detonation wise.

Are you running high test or 87?

Look for a deposit remover additive for your gas.
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