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Unread 07-06-2013, 11:23 PM   #646
2Xtreme
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
... There is a better way but you have to be willing to go the extra mile....
Shawn
Which is.....??

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Unread 07-07-2013, 02:09 AM   #647
86cj74.2L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme

Which is.....??
Maybe something like drilling out the air bleeds .003 at a time or finding a aftermarket guy that has a kit to resize the idle restrictors?????????????

I'm all ears too.
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Unread 07-07-2013, 08:09 AM   #648
John Strenk
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Rapid jet metering blocks?
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Unread 07-07-2013, 09:42 AM   #649
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No promises on this post but I'll try. Three hours of Stevie Ray Vaughn and three bottles of wine have done me in.

You'll need a couple of things. A 61-80 wire drill kit, some 6X32 plugs, and some enthusiasm.

I had to cheat a little yesterday because my memory fails me; more than I'd like to admit. http://www.speedtalk.com/forum/viewt...hp?f=1&t=36401

To figure out what you need to do without the aid of a wide-band air/fuel monitor:

Warm the engine up and make sure it's tuned as good as you can get it. Using the idle speed screw, increase the engine speed to about 1,400 rpm. Turn the mixture screws in a quarter turn and listen to the engine and note any change in rpm. In your case, it should sound cleaner and probably come up a little in rpm when you turn the mixture screws in. Go in another quarter turn and see what happens. For kicks and grins, take them out a quarter turn from where you started and see how the engine responds.

What you're doing here is getting the carb off of the idle circuit and forcing it into the transition slots. When you add to or remove some of the fuel with the mixture screws, you can determine whether or not the transfer slot is getting the right amount of fuel to the engine. If the engine cleans up or increases rpm when you close the mixture screws a little, it's probably delivering too much fuel and you'll need to decrease the idle feed restrictors by a couple thou.

If the engine cleans up or increases rpm when you open up the mixture screws, it's likely a little lean and you need to increase the idle feed restrictors by a few thou.

Once you find out where you're at, likely rich, you'll need to remove the float bowl and metering block and start sticking drill bits into the idle feed restrictors to see what size they currently are. Then you'll have to drill the hole out with a #37 bit, tap (blind tap?) it for your 6X32 plugs, drill a hole in the brass plugs that's .002 smaller than whatever size your restrictors were to begin with and try it out using the above procedure.

It's not complicated it's just a PITA draining the fuel out of the bowl and testing over and over.

I did a similar deal with the idle air bleeds on my Weber. Pics for referrence only.

Holes drilled and tapped...



Brass plugs threaded in...



86 posted a perfect pic of where you'll focus your attention. Mark also has a pic of a metering block that's been modified in one of those links above.


Shawn
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Unread 07-07-2013, 07:12 PM   #650
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Woah, woah, WOAH….!!
WICKED confused now… lol

All of a sudden we went from talking jet sizes, to idle circuits, feed restrictors, metering blocks, air bleeds, and god knows what else I can’t remember…. I have no idea what any of that meant. Looks like i will be pouring over Holley's site and diagrams again.

First question:
If Holley’s recommendation would be to change jet sizes, why wouldn’t that be the way to go?

Next:
Mark, I’m assuming the process of drilling those plugs required a drill press, no?

On an additional note, I have pretty much pinpointed that leak that popped up. Seems be coming from where the dipstick tube enters the block. Did some Googling and all indications are high crankcase pressure. That coupled with the fact that I had also noticed my oil cap seemed to be ‘seeping’ a bit, and with the oil in the PCV tube….

I started to suspect the PCV valve. “But you just put a new one in...!”, you say? Yup!
But, here is the kicker…. The new PCV valve was replaced with the same one that was in the vehicle. HOWEVER, looking at Quadratec’s site and several Google image searches shows that the PCV valve I bought, based on the one the PO had installed, is the wrong one!

The correct valve has 2 connections in a ‘T’ configuration. The one I have currently has just one connection. And who knows what crankcase pressure it is meant for….

I’ll be getting a new one and plugging one side.
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Unread 07-07-2013, 07:25 PM   #651
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Whether the pcv has one port or two doesn't matter. A pcv is nothing more than a calibrated leak and getting the "correct" one and plugging one of the ports will be just like the one you have now.
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It's just a Jeep, and if you don't wheel it once in a while, it's not even that.
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Unread 07-07-2013, 07:43 PM   #652
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Jet your carb down and drive it. If it has any effect on your idle quality readjust your idle mixture screws. You want to be around 1 1/2 turns out when you have everything sized right. Of the many ways to restrict the idle restrictors end result is yours is too much for your engine requirements and needs to become smaller.

All the Holley carbs I've had required some amount of tweeking to match what they went on too. Be it the idle feeds, a different power valve, different pump nozzles. Bla bla bla.

Make a PCV condenser to catch to oil, and drive it and blow the carbon out of it.

A 1/8 Allen wrench stuck in the nipple of the vacuum advance and turned counter clockwise should remove some advance related to vacuum. Or just unhook the vacuum and drive without it to see how the detonation is doing.

If you had a air fuel ratio monitor it would go faster. You can make one with a 4 wire oxygen sensor and a cheep volt meter. As long as you have access to a welder........
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Unread 07-07-2013, 08:16 PM   #653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gosupes
Whether the pcv has one port or two doesn't matter. A pcv is nothing more than a calibrated leak and getting the "correct" one and plugging one of the ports will be just like the one you have now.
Springs in PCV valves are 'rated' for different crankcase pressure. That's why there are more than 2 on the market.

And everyone else that has posted in this thread seemed to think a new valve would help.

And at around $3, I think I can swing it.

BTW, I don't blame you for not reading this entire thread.....
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Unread 07-07-2013, 08:19 PM   #654
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86, I definitely need to do all of that.

Was ust confused about how and why the conversations turned to restricting those passages.
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Unread 07-07-2013, 08:53 PM   #655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme View Post

Springs in PCV valves are 'rated' for different crankcase pressure. That's why there are more than 2 on the market.

And everyone else that has posted in this thread seemed to think a new valve would help.

And at around $3, I think I can swing it.

BTW, I don't blame you for not reading this entire thread.....
I have followed this thread from the beginning. Since i am running a holley as well, i am more curious as to what the solution will be even though i have never read anyone who has the same issue as you. And a pcv is not reliant on crankcase pressure, its reliant on vacuum. And i don't blame you for not knowing that....
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It's just a Jeep, and if you don't wheel it once in a while, it's not even that.
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Unread 07-08-2013, 04:23 AM   #656
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Just for some verification...

I remember one year they ran the purge for the evap tank to the PCV.



It's also an example of the distributor running BOTH manifold and Ported Vacuum to the distributor Vacuum advance.

Sadly, the forum I got this picture was to help a guy trying to figure out were the vacuum line goes that runs into his firewall on his 85 CJ7.
We all know that this is for a CJ around 79 to 80 without a heated intake manifold and that hose through the firewall was probably for his Quadrartrac tranny.
That was 4 years ago so I hope he did finally get the right answer...

But I digress...
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Unread 07-08-2013, 06:40 AM   #657
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Quote:
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...Make a simple PCV condenser to catch the oil blowing into the intake. Go to a hardware store and get a air water separator for a air compressor. Make it a taller one like 6 to 8 inches tall, and ensure it has a cindered brass filter, not a white fiber element. Then buy two barbed hose fittings for your hose diameter.
86-

Am I correct in assuming this will be located inline between the PCV valve and the manifold vacuum source?
And if so, where would be a good place to mount it? Firewall?
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Unread 07-08-2013, 01:02 PM   #658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme

86-

Am I correct in assuming this will be located inline between the PCV valve and the manifold vacuum source?
And if so, where would be a good place to mount it? Firewall?
Yes it goes between the PCV and the vacuum port. Put it anywhere you can. Even under the battery somewhere.

There are also plans on the Internet to make them also.

I joked about this before...........you could, for now anyway, put lawn mower fuel filters in the hoses to keep the dirt out and let them vent into the frame rails. Think of it as rust proofing. Untill you get the condenser operational.
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Unread 07-08-2013, 01:15 PM   #659
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..... I joked about this before...........you could, for now anyway, put lawn mower fuel filters in the hoses to keep the dirt out and let them vent into the frame rails. Think of it as rust proofing. Untill you get the condenser operational.
I didn't see that before. But what CJ frame couldn't use some internal rustproofing???

However, that would be another vacuum leak......
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Unread 07-08-2013, 01:36 PM   #660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme

I didn't see that before. But what CJ frame couldn't use some internal rustproofing???

However, that would be another vacuum leak......
No it would not. The valve cover would just vent to atmosphere through the front and rear valve cover grommets. You cap the manifold port under the carb that use to have the hose from the PCV.

The valve cover leaks on Grammys 86 preserved the passenger frame rail quiet well removing the skid plate / trans mount bolts on the passenger side was easy and looked brand new. Removing the drivers side bolts, I thought I was going to twist the bolts off or pull the threads out.

So now I squirt oil into the Frame rail holes on occasion.
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