With my distributor (junkyard motorcraft out of a Grand Wagoneer) I set my timing as per factory (8*@1600 then checked it at idle of 600 with no vacuum advance) and at idle with no vacuum advance it still shown 7*. I say don't sweat it. Concentrate on your high idle and leave the advance unhooked for now.
I thought for idle that transfer slot measurement was a do not exceed. But its been a while.
The FaceTime offer still stands. Then I can see exactly what your doing. I'll be at work tomorrow by 6pm. No trouble calls ill answer the phone.
Ok, we're all missing something really stupid. This ain't right..
Here's what I do in similar situations. Get your favorite liquer (price is a non-issue at this point), Relax alone, if possible to this and I can nearly promise you that it'll come to you. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7aleg9RgBe0
Laugh if you want. It works
Good stuff, right there!
Wasn't able to get anything accomplished last night, except re-tightening bolts (surprised how loese they were after just one heat cycle ), and fogging the entire engine looking for leaks - still none
I did spend a good chunk of time trying to figure out why it would only crank and not fire all of a sudden..... turns out I knocked the feed line off of the fuel pump when messing with the distributor hold down bolt. What kind of PO doesn't put a CLAMP ON A FUEL LINE????
I was unsure of how the current timing thing, so I didn't go any further. Probably should have, but wanted to be sure the information you guys had given to me took into accout the current timing of 7*
I think, my current confusion is a chicken/ egg thing:
Do I lower the idle by carb tuning, then set timing, or use timing to bring idle down (adjusting if it won't go far enough).
After reading and re-reading, I THINK the plan is:
Keep timing where it is at 7*
Pull carb and adjust secondary throttle plates per our discussion above (pert' near closed)
Then set overall idle speed