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Unread 06-07-2013, 04:02 AM   #376
2Xtreme
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
Put your 'big-boy' pants on, and and get back to it........
Seal that carb vac. leak and watch the rpms drop.
LG


You're right.... I was in a mood last night.

FWIW, my girlfriend says that sounds like something I would say.....

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Unread 06-07-2013, 04:08 AM   #377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
Is 820 with the idle adjustment screw all the way back and not touching the stop?

If you put your thumb over the open breather grommet does the rpm drop? Can you also feel vacuum pulling against your thumb?
Yes, All the way out.

I covered the breather grommet with a balled up rag, and no change.
Since I was using a rag, I couldn't feel the presence or lack of vacuum.
In thinking about it, a rag might not be enough of a seal. But neither would a filter/ breather.

But, I am going to assume there is no vacuum there, because there is a steady stream of smoke of steam that comes from that hose.

Gosupes:
That is a good idea and works.
But I think my better move is to put an actual breather on there.

Anyone know what breather, or combination of hardware to build one.
Pretty sure the grommet ID is .48" or something close (IIFC).
I may have to pick up a fitting and a 'ricer' filter for the time being....
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Unread 06-07-2013, 04:29 AM   #378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme View Post
Yes, All the way out.

I covered the breather grommet with a balled up rag, and no change.
Since I was using a rag, I couldn't feel the presence or lack of vacuum.
In thinking about it, a rag might not be enough of a seal. But neither would a filter/ breather.

But, I am going to assume there is no vacuum there, because there is a steady stream of smoke of steam that comes from that hose.

Gosupes:
That is a good idea and works.
But I think my better move is to put an actual breather on there.

Anyone know what breather, or combination of hardware to build one.
Pretty sure the grommet ID is .48" or something close (IIFC).
I may have to pick up a fitting and a 'ricer' filter for the time being....
Pep boys seem to sell something


Brand: Spectre Proformance
Part Number: 3995
Cost: $13
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Unread 06-07-2013, 05:13 AM   #379
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That's what I was thinking...

Next I'll get a 'fart can' exhaust and 'BRAAAAAP' myself through the trails...
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Unread 06-07-2013, 05:18 AM   #380
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Make sure it says "Type R"

http://www.angelfire.com/nc2/mycoffeecan/page1.html
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Unread 06-07-2013, 05:34 AM   #381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme View Post
That's what I was thinking...

Next I'll get a 'fart can' exhaust and 'BRAAAAAP' myself through the trails...
Hey now, don't get carried away. I tend to like those breathers. They keep the crap out of your carb when you have excessive blow-by and they, IMO, give the engine compartment a cleaner look.



So bring me up to speed here. You did get your throttle plate to close down? Was it the fast-idle adjustment on the choke that was messing it up?


Shawn
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Unread 06-07-2013, 05:47 AM   #382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme
That's what I was thinking...

Next I'll get a 'fart can' exhaust and 'BRAAAAAP' myself through the trails...
Oh god that's funny.
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Unread 06-07-2013, 05:55 AM   #383
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Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
So bring me up to speed here. You did get your throttle plate to close down? Was it the fast-idle adjustment on the choke that was messing it up?

Shawn
This appeared to be the case.
One thing I was unsure of (and I've read recommendations of doing it both ways), is should I have set it with the throttle fully closed OR on the fast idle cam?

I think once, I verify that and eliminate the vac leak with new carb gaskets, I should be able to get the idle down to where it needs to be.

Another thing I verified is the gunk in my engine.
If you look closely in this picture, you can see it's quite nasty.
Although I would not really describe it as 'sludge', as looks and feel more like carbon. Kind of crispy/ gritty.



Another question I have is about the smoke/ steam coming out of where breather should be..... normal? I doubt it, right?
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Unread 06-07-2013, 05:56 AM   #384
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HAd to send this to my son....
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Unread 06-07-2013, 06:10 AM   #385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme View Post
This appeared to be the case.
One thing I was unsure of (and I've read recommendations of doing it both ways), is should I have set it with the throttle fully closed OR on the fast idle cam?
Should've set what? Try to start with the throttle plate exposing around .020 of the transfer slot. We can always come back to the fast-idle speed when the choke is set later. Am I understanding you right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme View Post
I think once, I verify that and eliminate the vac leak with new carb gaskets, I should be able to get the idle down to where it needs to be.
I don't know if it's been mentioned already or not but I'd replace all of the PCV stuff as well. New valve, rice-burner breather (the chrome ones make you go faster ) and a new hose. When I put the breather on mine, the O.D. of the chrome breather was different than the OEM fitting that it replaced. The guy at the parts store was kind enough to let me browse through their grommet bin and find the one I needed that had the right ID for the breather and OD to fit into the valve cover.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme View Post
Another thing I verified is the gunk in my engine.
If you look closely in this picture, you can see it's quite nasty.
Although I would not really describe it as 'sludge', as looks and feel more like carbon. Kind of crispy/ gritty.

Another question I have is about the smoke/ steam coming out of where breather should be..... normal? I doubt it, right?
That's pretty common on an old engine. How much is the question, though. Unless your current PCV isn't working well, that could explain all the oil in your hose. In that case, your rabbit hole just took another detour.

You're getting there. I think you just had more going on than you realized when you started this thread. One thing at a time and it'll come together.


Shawn
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Unread 06-07-2013, 06:28 AM   #386
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
Should've set what? Try to start with the throttle plate exposing around .020 of the transfer slot. We can always come back to the fast-idle speed when the choke is set later. Am I understanding you right?



I don't know if it's been mentioned already or not but I'd replace all of the PCV stuff as well. New valve, rice-burner breather (the chrome ones make you go faster ) and a new hose. When I put the breather on mine, the O.D. of the chrome breather was different than the OEM fitting that it replaced. The guy at the parts store was kind enough to let me browse through their grommet bin and find the one I needed that had the right ID for the breather and OD to fit into the valve cover.



That's pretty common on an old engine. How much is the question, though. Unless your current PCV isn't working well, that could explain all the oil in your hose. In that case, your rabbit hole just took another detour.

You're getting there. I think you just had more going on than you realized when you started this thread. One thing at a time and it'll come together.


Shawn
Maybe I'm not using the correct terminology, or the coffee hasn't kicked in yet. From another article:
"With the throttles fully closed against their idle stop screws (not on the fast idle cam), noting that the secondary's and primaries both have separate idle stop screws, there should be exactly .020 of the transition slot exposed below the primary throttle plates. Use a .020 feeler gauge to measure this: Place the feeler gauge on the throttle plate up against the transition slot and adjust the idle speed screw so that the slot JUST BARELY disappears behind the feeler gauge. At .020 slot exposure, the slot will appear to be a perfectly square hole. Adjust the primary idle speed screw so that the primary blades are in position."

This is where I am confused.
Fully closed, or on the fast idle cam. I read of doing it both ways.
Or maybe I am confused on terminology again...

Planning to replace all PCV elements.
None of the local places I went to had the valve in stock. So I had one order it. Although I am sure it will not be the same as the one I have. I am sure the 'book' calls for a 2 connection valve, so I will have to cap one. Or see if I can get a number off my current one. May have to bring it in to the store for match-up.
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Unread 06-07-2013, 07:06 AM   #387
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I see. The step you're on right now is completely independent of the choke. That's why I mentioned just backing that fast-idle screw that's under the black choke housing nearly all the way out so you know for certain that it isn't in the way. We'll come back to it after you get the throttle plates in the position that the article mentioned by setting the screw that's next to where your linkage hooks up.

You're on the right track.


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Unread 06-07-2013, 08:10 AM   #388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
...That's why I mentioned just backing that fast-idle screw that's under the black choke housing nearly all the way out so you know for certain that it isn't in the way....

Shawn
Unless I am not understanding which screw you are referring to, that is the screw that set's the primary throttle plates to the desired .020" of transition slot.... This one?



Wouldn't backing it all the way out be counter-productive?
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Unread 06-07-2013, 08:19 AM   #389
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AHA! You're working on the wrong side of the carb. Get that screw completely away from touching anything and use the idle-speed screw on the other side of the carb right next to your throttle linkage.

Like we talked about, make sure you use your fingers or something to keep the choke plate open while you set your throttle plates to .020.

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Unread 06-07-2013, 08:41 AM   #390
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Here, let's do it this way just to make sure we're on the same page.

If you're standing on the driver's side of the Jeep with your knees against the tire looking across the engine compartment towards the passenger side, the fast-idle speed screw is on the right side. When it's cold and the choke plate is closed, that screw will set your choke speed. We want to back that screw out (temporarily) to make sure that it isn't touching anything. Then go a step further and either use your hand or something else to wedge between the choke tower and the choke plate to hold it open. I used a short length of toilet paper roll. That will free up both hands and you won't have to worry about the choke re-setting itself while you work. Be sure to cycle the throttle back to release the choke.



The normal (hot) idle speed screw is on the left side of the carb right below where your throttle linkage hooks up. Easily accessible: the pic in my last post. That's the one you adjust to set your throttle plates to the .020 transfer slot exposure and will be the one you adjust to set your hot, normal idle speed. That can only be done when you know for certain that the choke and fast-idle screw is completely out of the way.

It's important to not miss that step.
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