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Unread 05-16-2013, 04:00 PM   #196
Skerr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
Finding TDC ... again
Bookmarked! Thanks, Shawn.

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Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 05-17-2013, 01:04 PM   #197
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OK, I reread the information in the Finding TDC link above. And pretty much understand it.

One thing I am unclear of in that info is, if I don't know where TDC is, how do I know where "roughly 20 degrees before top dead center (BTDC)" is?

Also, when installing the timing tape, how do I locate it on the dampener?
Place '0' on the tape at the TDC mark that was determined by splitting the two marks per the instructions in Shawn's link?
Another thing I just thought of...

Do I set the idle speed before setting the timing?
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Unread 05-17-2013, 01:54 PM   #198
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You're just going to pretend (hope) that the hash mark on the balancer is close enough to "0" to call it good.

1. Pull the plugs
2. Rotate the engine until the hash mark lines up with "0" on your timing indicator
3. Spin it backwards two inches
4. Install the piston stop until it contacts the piston
5. Back the engine up a couple of inches and gently come forward until the piston contacts the stop. You're doing everything by hand, here.
6. Mark the balancer at "0" on the timing indicator
7. Spin the engine backwards until you gently contact the stop again
8. Mark the balancer at "0" on the timing indicator
9. Spin the engine forward so you have access to both marks from underneath and remove the piston stop
10. Measure the distance between your two marks and divide by two. Mark that point. If that point is where your hash mark is, awesome.
11. Use the correct timing tape for your balancer's diameter (Steve illustrated it perfectly), trim it for the right width, clean the balancer and install it with "0" at your center mark.
11. Rotate the engine forward until "0" on your new timing tape lines up with "0" on the timing indicator. That's exactly TDC. Chopsticks are for sushi

When you get ready to check the timing and chart out your curve, keep the idle down to 700 rpm or less (vacuum advance unhooked and plugged) to keep any centrifugal advance from coming in too soon and screwing up your work.

Savvy?


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Unread 05-18-2013, 07:47 AM   #199
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Got it.
So, just to confirm my last 2 questions:
Yes, set the idle (700 rpm or less with vac advance plugged)before setting the timing
and
Yes, '0' on the timing gets placed at the new mark I make on the balancer.

Bear with me here, as I have just a couple more questions before i hopefully get back to the garage Monday or Tuesday night....

What timing am I shooting for, or how do I know what to set it at?

and

Can someone explain to me the process of charting the advance curve, or maybe provide a link to said info?

Again, I REALLY appreciate all of the help. The Jeep has never run so good!

2X
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Unread 05-21-2013, 08:19 AM   #200
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Yep, you got it right. I'd set the initial advance at 10* at 700 rpm with the vacuum line removed and plugged and then go from there based on performance. Keep the vacuum line disconnected while you plot your advance curve.

When it comes to actually getting the timing written down, it's good to have a partner to help you out. You'll take a notepad and write down your rpm in whatever increments you want, i.e. 800, 1000, 1200, or 750, 1000, 1250... whatever you prefer, going top to bottom on the left side.

Then you have your helper sit in the cab with your notepad and hold the rpm at your starting point. Get a reading from the timing light, yell it to them to write down and go up to the next rpm. Repeat all the way up. Things start getting interesting around 2,500 rpm but it's nothing like giving hand signals to the dyno operator at 4,500 . It'll stop increasing at some point and you can end your test there.

Just be safe. Try as best as you can to not have your face inline with any belts and keep your digits away from things that move.

As far as making a purdy chart on the computer, I gots no idea

Does that help?


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Unread 05-21-2013, 08:29 AM   #201
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Microsoft Excel is what many of have used to plot the charts after the data is recorded.

BTW, I was able to manually work the throttle at the carb with one hand, and record the timing with the light in the other hand. That's were the digital timing light with a tach and advance feature comes in handy.

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Unread 05-21-2013, 08:31 AM   #202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swatson454 View Post
As far as making a purdy chart on the computer, I gots no idea

Does that help?
Thanks for the reply!

Yes, it does help.

So, exactly what number am I recording from the timing light?
And, do I am setting the timing first, then recording this?
What timing am I shooting for?
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Unread 05-21-2013, 08:36 AM   #203
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Originally Posted by 2Xtreme View Post
Thanks for the reply!

Yes, it does help.

So, exactly what number am I recording from the timing light?
And, do I am setting the timing first, then recording this?
What timing am I shooting for?
You're looking at the number on the timing tape just below "0" on your timing indicator. You might want to clean that indicator up really well. If it's difficult to see "0" you can always put a dab of white paint on the little line at "0" so it doesn't mess with your eyes. Those white, liquid paint marker dealys work pretty well for that.

Yeah, set the timing first. Starting at 10* just makes things easier for me. Maybe that's just old habit but you have to start somewhere.


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Unread 05-21-2013, 08:44 AM   #204
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GREAT!

Thanks guys.
I think I can do this!

Funny - I have had approximately 25 cars of all makes and models over my 30 years of driving, and never once set timing....
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Unread 05-21-2013, 09:11 AM   #205
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Microsoft Excel is what many of have used to plot the charts after the data is recorded.

Matt
Luckily for me, I'm pretty good with Excel... lol
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Unread 05-21-2013, 10:13 AM   #206
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Quick question, and it may be buried somewhere in these 14 pages of comments, but I can't find it....

If the vacuum advance is plugged during this procedure, what advance is being plotted?
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Unread 05-21-2013, 10:19 AM   #207
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First you want one curve without it connected to the vacuum. That would be just your Centrifugal Advance

Then you need something like a might-t-vac to plot the vacuum advance curve.

I guess you can get the no load advance curve with it hooked up.

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Unread 05-21-2013, 10:22 AM   #208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme
Quick question, and it may be buried somewhere in these 14 pages of comments, but I can't find it....

If the vacuum advance is plugged during this procedure, what advance is being plotted?
Centrifugal advance

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Unread 05-21-2013, 10:23 AM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme

Luckily for me, I'm pretty good with Excel... lol
Yeah. Fun stuff.

Here is one excel graph I was working on. Now to add the spark and advance stuff.


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Unread 05-21-2013, 10:51 AM   #210
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First you want one curve without it connected to the vacuum. That would be just your Centrifugal Advance

Then you need something like a might-t-vac to plot the vacuum advance curve....
Got ya....

One step at a time, I guess.

>>Don't the rabbit hole<<
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