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Unread 05-14-2013, 10:26 AM   #166
Matt1981CJ7
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You can do the larger Ford cap, adapter, and rotor on either the 258 or V8 Motorcraft distributors.

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Unread 05-14-2013, 10:33 AM   #167
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Interestingly enough, Autolite's tech info shows a plug almost exactly the same as mine as being 'normal'....
http://autolite.com/sites/default/a/...n/plugtips.pdf
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Unread 05-14-2013, 10:47 AM   #168
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Here's the reddest 985 I had. 'Bout a year and a half on them powered by a D.U.I.



Maybe it's your indian colony swill.


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Unread 05-14-2013, 10:58 AM   #169
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I think many of those plug charts are out-dated, and the image quality is very poor.

My understanding is, the ceramic on a healthy plug should be mostly white, with a vertical band of brownish/tan color running down one side. The electrode and grand strap should be mostly clean metal, with a slight darker color change on the ground strap about half way thru the curve.

Shawn, have you ever bothered indexing your plugs to the valves?

Good luck,

Matt
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Unread 05-14-2013, 01:17 PM   #170
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He needs to go down on the primaries and tell us what for power valve number is installed.

To me those plugs look like a richer version of what Shawn posted in his reddish plug picture.

Jetting a Holley is easy. You keep going down in the primary size Untill you get a slight surge on a flat road at 35 to 40. Then go up a jet or two and call it a day. Then what ever jet size you end up with add 3 to 5 to it and put then in the secondaries. Depending what your engine feels like at wide open throttle.

You also need to do your lean best idle setting.

Pinging and or detonation can be caused buy many things.

To me looking at those plugs its a ignition related event for the pinging and or detonation. Unless you have so much carbon in your combustion chambers.

Engine temp is not the source of your engine knock. I would have left the 195 in.
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Unread 05-14-2013, 01:45 PM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
He needs to go down on the primaries and tell us what for power valve number is installed.

To me those plugs look like a richer version of what Shawn posted in his reddish plug picture.

Jetting a Holley is easy. You keep going down in the primary size Untill you get a slight surge on a flat road at 35 to 40. Then go up a jet or two and call it a day. Then what ever jet size you end up with add 3 to 5 to it and put then in the secondaries. Depending what your engine feels like at wide open throttle.

You also need to do your lean best idle setting.

Pinging and or detonation can be caused buy many things.

To me looking at those plugs its a ignition related event for the pinging and or detonation. Unless you have so much carbon in your combustion chambers.

Engine temp is not the source of your engine knock. I would have left the 195 in.
Great... Jetting....
One more thing to complicate things and confuse me even more...
I swear I'll never get to drive this thing....

Anyway...
Near as I can tell by digging around online, the carb should have shipped with a 65 power valve. Would the number be stamped on the carb?

The 195* T-stat is still in.
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Unread 05-14-2013, 06:12 PM   #172
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That power valve will be ok.

I would drop two sizes in primary jets and put your new plugs in and drive around a little. See what signature the plugs end up with.

But the quickest way to get real close (without a air fuel ratio monitor) is to drop jets 1 size at a time Untill you feel a slight surge at steady throttle or a slight hesitation when slightly getting on the throttle.
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Unread 05-14-2013, 06:20 PM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86cj74.2L View Post
...I would drop two sizes in primary jets....
Hmmm... I guess I'll have to order some.
Are they usually sold as a kit? Or do I have to order a bunch of different jets to try out?
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Unread 05-14-2013, 08:17 PM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme View Post
Great... Jetting....
One more thing to complicate things and confuse me even more...
I swear I'll never get to drive this thing....

Anyway...
Near as I can tell by digging around online, the carb should have shipped with a 65 power valve. Would the number be stamped on the carb?

The 195* T-stat is still in.
You may have to get a new carb gasket, but you won't be challenged by rejetting. Kinda cool learning about the carb. If you can't find them locally, I like Mike's Carburetors online.

Congrats on your improvements.
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Unread 05-15-2013, 05:37 AM   #175
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Any auto parts store that sells Holley carbs should have a assortment of jets on hand. Also get the reusable blue gaskets.
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Unread 05-15-2013, 05:58 AM   #176
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OK, Jet work seems to be the consensus on what to tackle next.

Can someone explain to me what the following numbers mean, and what jets to try from here?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme View Post
...I know the jets that are in it, are whatever came with it. (F)51 (R) plate 134-34 (whatever that means), if the information I found online is correct...
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Unread 05-15-2013, 05:59 AM   #177
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If detonation is the problem, why are we having 2Xtreme focus on re-jetting leaner?

That seems counter-productive, to me.

I'd get the ignition worked out first, then move to the carb mixture, but that's just me.

Matt
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Unread 05-15-2013, 06:06 AM   #178
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That was going to be my next question.... Should I come up with a new plan of attack? Which comes first, chicken/ egg...???

I UPS says I will have my delivery from Summit today (Vac guage, compression tester, timing tape and piston stop).

So I hope to go to the garage and check for vac leaks. Doubt I will have time to work on timing tonight.

Should I still be considering cooler plugs??
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Unread 05-15-2013, 06:15 AM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Xtreme View Post
That was going to be my next question.... Should I come up with a new plan of attack? Which comes first, chicken/ egg...???

I UPS says I will have my delivery from Summit today (Vac guage, compression tester, timing tape and piston stop).

So I hope to go to the garage and check for vac leaks. Doubt I will have time to work on timing tonight.

Should I still be considering cooler plugs??
We're really just shooting darts in the dark here without some specific information.

IMO, your plan should be:

1. Check for leaks and record the manifold vac pressure at idle. Once you have a steady 18-20" Hg at idle, then move on.

2. Check timing and advance curve, make necessary adjustments.

3. Tune carb.

At least that's how I'd approach it.

Matt
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Unread 05-15-2013, 07:14 AM   #180
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I'm on board with Matt. I find it difficult to read plugs for mixture when they burn like that. They do look like they might be rich but that doesn't jive with a knocking problem unless the ignition/timing is fubared. I'd solve the ignition problem first.


Shawn
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