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ECGS Fall Sale - 10% Off EVERYTHING!!Gear Packages Available! Your # 1 Diff Shop is ROCKRIDGE 4ROCKRIDGE4WD Introduces a NEW Jeep Wrangler JK *led* tail

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Unread 11-01-2013, 10:41 AM   #16
JeepHammer
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1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
Posts: 10,149
Weak spots on the M-20 are where the axle tubes weld into the housing. If you get a lot of heavy loading, like when you get wheel hop wheeling, the welds will break loose and the pinion/housing will point up at the floorboards. If you are lucky, the U-Joint will break before it ruins both yokes and the drive shaft...

Solution is to have the tubes welded to the housing much better.
There are several threads on here about how to do that very thing...
Pre-Heat housing, control cooling after welding, use high nickel content rods, and stitch weld is a quick overview.

The other problem is two piece axle shafts.
Axle shaft with separate drive flanges on the ends for the wheels to mount on.

Solution is one piece axles. These are fairly cheap, fairly easy to install and stop the biggest issues the AMC 20 has, which is stripped flanges.

Once housing and axles are fixed, this is a pretty rugged differential.
If you intend to get a lot of 'Air', then consider switching to something stronger.
By the time you install a truss to strengthen the tubes, or re-tube this housing, and change axles, it's just more cost effective to swap it out for something with stronger tubes and lighter weight/more ground clearance.

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Unread 11-01-2013, 10:53 AM   #17
Grumpy_one
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1976 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Happy Valley Or., Oregon
Posts: 194
I went with D44 front and rear on my '76 CJ5 to support the 35" tires that are going on. I've got a Scout II dana 44 rear end (and front) that are taking up space in my garage. If you were closer I'd give you a deal. These are spares that need to go. I also have a M20 (the one that came out) available. It's a shame we're not closer. You're right at the most opportune moment for the right kind of upgrade. At least you have one piece axles. I sheared my taper once, with 31's, which is why I decided to go with D44's instead of upgrading the Model 20. And as far as putting gears in, I'll echo what was mentioned earlier, have someone with experience put them in, or at least be there to show you how it's done. While I'm a mechanic by trade, that was one of the things I paid someone else to do, setting up gears is crucial. I went with 4.56 gears (common for 35" meats). Good luck.
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Unread 11-01-2013, 11:24 AM   #18
CJ5_Fan
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1980 CJ5 
 
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Location: San Jose, Ca
Posts: 753
Here is a pretty good manual

Morris 4x4 has some good online info.

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowled...ex.htm#service
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Unread 11-01-2013, 02:18 PM   #19
JeepHammer
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1973 CJ5 
 
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I can't really tell with my monitor and the angle, but that might be a posi carrier... Doesn't look like the long swoopy open carrier in that picture.
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Unread 11-01-2013, 08:09 PM   #20
epwildcat
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1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Brentwood, TN
Posts: 41
Bought a new spider gear set from Randy's ring and pinion (local in middle tn). He asked me if it was posi or....something else, but i didn't know the difference. What else is there besides lockers and LS? I'm meeting my mechanic at 7:00 to get the new stuff installed.....so any info y'all can toss out that I can quizz him about before we get this thing in the air and he starts plugging on it is MUCH APPRECIATED! Although I trust this guy, I'd like to ask him some intelligent questions to validate his expertise

I was on a good 4wheeler forum previously when I had a Yamaha grizzly 700 and learned a ton from those guys. I've asked one question here and gotten tons of great feedback. Can't wait to see what I pick up over the next year or so just reading the posts and asking questions! THANKS EVERYONE
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Unread 11-01-2013, 08:12 PM   #21
epwildcat
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1981 CJ7 
 
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Different angle photo. Help any at all to y'all?
image.jpg  
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Unread 11-01-2013, 11:20 PM   #22
jrussblues
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1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: prairieville, louisiana
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If it's factory then you either had an open carrier or a trac lock similar to new jeeps...that looks like a standard open carrier, look for clutch packs on either side if you can peek in toward the axle shafts but to me it looks like a standard open carrier.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 09:26 AM   #23
jeepwhore
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1984 CJ7 
 
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So was it just the spiders and side gears that crapped the bed? Or the ring & pinion?

If it's just the spiders and the cross shaft will clear the ring gear (not sure it will with a 4.10 gear set) then it's a quick fix. If not, you're gonna have to pull the axle shafts, remove the carrier and separate the ring gear from it. If you have to remove the ring gear make darn sure you make reference marks on the gear and carrier so you get it put back on in the same orientation, and make sure you don't mix up the shim packs.

If you have to replace the R&P then the above is all a moot point as you have to tear it down completely anyway.
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'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.

The advertised position for a topless, dirty jeep girl has been filled......by my wife. Thanks to all that applied.
<------------and yes, that is her.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 07:08 PM   #24
epwildcat
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1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Brentwood, TN
Posts: 41
Just the spider gears as it turned out! Much easier fix than I anticipated (but....I couldn't have done it without the help of a true mechanic my first go around....and you all here). Looking forward to many more posts/reading through this site.

I'll have a question on turning radius (are left and right supposed to be the same?? What's it mean if they're not?) if I don't find it in the search function.

CHEERS!
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Unread 11-02-2013, 07:24 PM   #25
jrussblues
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It means the steering stop bolts are set to different lengths if your tire isn't rubbing.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 07:47 PM   #26
epwildcat
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1981 CJ7 
 
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It's not rubbing. How do I adjust the steering stop bolts?
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Unread 11-02-2013, 07:52 PM   #27
jrussblues
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1985 CJ7 
 
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You will see a bolt with a jam nut on it sticking out of the inside of your steering knuckle...loosen the jam nut and adjust according to how much more or less turn you want out of the wheel
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Unread 11-02-2013, 08:15 PM   #28
Spieg8
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1984 CJ8 
 
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The nut on the steering stop is usually welded in place. Look to see if the bolt is bent. It's also common for people to add a washer under the nut when they install larger tires (the nut make the stop a little longer and limits travel to prevent tires from rubbing in a turn).

Another possibility is that the drag link is not adjusted properly. Is the steering wheel centered when you drive in a straight line?

You might also look at the steering damper/stabilizer. If the clamp on the tie rod is in the wrong place, that can also limit turning in one direction.
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Unread 11-03-2013, 09:14 AM   #29
jeepwhore
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1984 CJ7 
 
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It will look something like:


__________________
'84 CJ-7: Yota axles (spartan locked front, e-locked rear) 4" BDS, 1" Daystar & 3/8" shackle lifts, 35" X-Terrains on steelies, YJ Tub & family roll bar, heater blower upgrade, 4.2L w/MC2100 & Team Rush, Warn 8274. Rebuilt 4.2/4.0 hybrid, AX15 and twin sticks/clocking ring waiting to go in.

The advertised position for a topless, dirty jeep girl has been filled......by my wife. Thanks to all that applied.
<------------and yes, that is her.
:-D
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Unread 11-03-2013, 08:48 PM   #30
epwildcat
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1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Brentwood, TN
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Photo definitely helped. As I said, I've got better turning radius left than I do right. So I checked the steering bolts and they both appear same location. When you turn the wheel all the way left it'll hit the steering stop. When you turn it all the way right....it only gets within 1.5"-2" FROM the steering stop.

How come it won't turn all the way to the stop? Can I adjust that cross bar (name??) any to help?
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