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Stainless Steel Door Hinge PinsPoly Door Hinge BushingsFS: 2007-2013 Jeep Wrangler "HALO" Angel Eye Kit

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Unread 08-24-2013, 04:13 PM   #31
Jeeper44mag
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Yes. I would seal all the Windows.

Luis

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Unread 08-24-2013, 05:27 PM   #32
Dborns
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Ok, I'll do that to all windows. Is there any reason why I cant use clear exterior caulk even for the windshield? It dries 100% waterproof and would be half the price of the windshield adhesive in quadratec.
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Unread 08-24-2013, 06:10 PM   #33
jeepwhore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dborns
Ok, I'll do that to all windows. Is there any reason why I cant use clear exterior caulk even for the windshield? It dries 100% waterproof and would be half the price of the windshield adhesive in quadratec.
I think regular caulk can be corrosive to automotive paint.
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Unread 08-24-2013, 07:04 PM   #34
Dborns
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Good to know, thank you! I'll check oreilly or napa for the glass adhesive before I order from Quadratec.

Thanks
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Unread 08-25-2013, 04:05 PM   #35
Ken4444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepwhore View Post
I think regular caulk can be corrosive to automotive paint.
If you've used caulk and thought it smelled like vinegar, you're right. That smell is acetic acid which is a large component of vinegar.
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Unread 09-07-2013, 05:10 AM   #36
Dborns
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I have a question on oil based paint and spray painting. I was picking up some primer when I saw a bottle of Ospho. I read the directions and it sure sounded like Por's Metal Ready so I bought it and a quart of Aces "Rust Stop" oil paint. I applied the ospho and let it sit overnight and then rolled a coat of paint on the dash. It had a few rust spots and some pitting so my next step is some body filler to even everything out. Ill go over that with some self -etching primer and then a few coats of black spray paint. I'll do the same thing to the firewall. Ive read that applying different kinds of paints to each other can cause delaminating, but would that apply here with spray paint over oil based paint?

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Unread 09-07-2013, 11:49 AM   #37
Renegade82
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I can't comment with any absolute knowledge but I have read several times where it's best to stick with one family of products for paint. These have been tested using each other so the recipe's have been concocted to work in harmony.

As for Ospho. Several people here have used it and your right, it's similar to Metal Ready from POR or Prep-n-Etch from Kleen Strip. They are acidic metal etching products.
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Unread 09-24-2013, 07:09 PM   #38
Dborns
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I've been doing some bodywork and also decided to try the Rustoleum roll on paint job I've seen. I'm pretty impressed with how its come out so far! Here are a couple pics after six coats of "Sand"-



The images aren't that great since they are from my cellphone. There is a little bit of orange peal to deal with, but I still need to wet sand a few times and then use polishing compound. While reading about this paint job, I've seen people mention that Rustoleum will fade due to it not having any UV protection. So I have two questions on that.

Will a gloss clear protect against fading? The only thing the can says is that its protection for the paint, but nothing about being a UV protectant.

Is Rustoleum from a quart enamel or acrylic? It just shows "oil based" on the front. I'm asking because I don't want to use the clear gloss in a spray can because then I might get that tiger stripe effect that I don't want. I found a quart of clear gloss but it says its "acrylic", and I know that putting two different types of paint down on each other can cause de-laminating.

If I can't use the acrylic or if clear doesn't protect against UV damage, is there any waxes or auto paint protection that anyone can recommend?

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Unread 09-24-2013, 08:35 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dborns View Post
Is Rustoleum from a quart enamel or acrylic? It just shows "oil based" on the front. s
The term "enamel" has lost its meaning. When you can buy latex paint that's labeled as "enamel", then the term is useless, IMO. "Oil based" is what you want to know. If you need paint thinner or a similar solvent to remove it, then that's what you want.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dborns View Post
I
I'm asking because I don't want to use the clear gloss in a spray can because then I might get that tiger stripe effect that I don't want. I found a quart of clear gloss but it says its "acrylic", and I know that putting two different types of paint down on each other can cause de-laminating.
I would definitely be careful about using any kind of clear coat on top of the Rustoleum. I think the best you can do is to call Rustoleum and get their opinion, and then do a test piece with the clear over the same paint you used on the Jeep. I'd hate to see all your painting work go to waste by having the clear coat foul it up because of some chemical incompatibility. In the auto painting world it's pretty well known not to mix products from different manufacturers, so I would proceed with caution.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dborns View Post
If I can't use the acrylic or if clear doesn't protect against UV damage, is there any waxes or auto paint protection that anyone can recommend?
I don't know of any waxes or similar products that provide UV protection, although I never looked for that on the label I suspect that any ultra thin coat of such a product isn't going to guard much against UV.
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Unread 09-25-2013, 06:34 AM   #40
Dborns
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Thanks for the reply. I emailed Rustoleum customer service today about the clear coat issue. I'll run by HD and see what selection they have of oil based clear coat. I looked on the net last night and found an article about using a rub on sealant and then carnuba wax for uv protection.

Thanks for the info!
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Unread 10-06-2013, 02:39 PM   #41
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The email I received said that Rustoleum does offer a gloss clear coat in a quart. The CS person stated that it will protect against Uv rays and that regular rustoleum has "some" Uv protection. I replied asking about using latex over oil based and she responded that it would be ok as long as I let the base coats dry fully before applying it.

Ive put 8 coats of base on and the next step is polishing compound. The PC I bought says its for removing light scratches and Ive read that it removes swirl marks and sanding lines. My thought was to apply the Pc to clean up the base coat and then apply the clear. Then I started questioning putting clear over a polish. I think Ill just apply a couple coats of clear then go over that with polish.
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