Are these skins you got galvanized? .. But if they are be cautious when welding as it gives off a toxic fume.
x2. Welding galvanized metal requires caution. You want to avoid being exposed to those fumes. The problem is that if you weld outside and use a fan to blow the fumes away, you're going to lose your shielding gas.
When I get closer to actually applying the skins, I'll make the decision on if I'm going to weld them or just use adhesive all the way around. I'll do some more research on why 3M suggests using the adhesive on the top, front, and lower seam and welding the back seam. This info was on a how to video that I watched on how to use the stuff. Maybe I'll just use the adhesive on all four sides.
Today, I used a 60 grit sanding disc and started cleaning up some of the rust thru spots on the side of the tub. I found out that this thing has been painted and there is a thin layer of bondo and even more rust in other spots. Even with 60 grit, it still didn't cut through the bondo or even the paint very fast. I have a couple 40 grit discs but I didn't give them a try.
What else could I use on my angle grinder that will cut through the bondo and paint? After finding the hidden rust, I think I should go all the way down to bare metal on the whole tub. That way I can find all of the rust and get it all cleaned out. I can then go back over the repaired tub with POR and seal it for good. This will do two things; I can fix all of the rot, and I can also practice my welding skills. I know it won't look perfect after I weld, but the small patch panels I put in will be covered by the full skins that I'm putting on. I know that may sound like a waste of metal, but again I have the metal already so I might as well use it. There aren't that many places that will have to be cutout and repaired, so I'm not going to be using alot of metal. So, is there a stronger sanding disc or something I can use that'll cut to the bare steel faster?
My next question is on Harbor Freights metal shears. I normally have a rule to never buy electric tools from there, but I saw a pair of their metal shears. The only way I'm going to be able to cut sheet metal for the small patch panels is to use a cutoff disc on an angle grinder. I know that's going to be hard to get a good, straight cut with those, so I was wondering if anyone has had good results with these: http://www.harborfreight.com/14-gaug...ear-68199.html
I've used a wire brush on a grinder to remove paint before. The cheap ones throw more wire at you when you use them, so I recomend spending a little more money on one. Another advantage is that they won't clog up as bad as sandpaper, so you can go a long way with a single brush. Its also great for blasting the surface rust right out of the way.
I've used a wire brush on a grinder to remove paint before. The cheap ones throw more wire at you when you use them, so I recomend spending a little more money on one.
I got a DeWalt brand steel wire brush for my DA and grinder and has worked well with minimal loss of the steel bristles. Be sure to wear good eye protection and perhaps also a face shield when you're stripping paint, bondo, and rust. When I was stripping the interior in my '85, many times I was wearing safety glasses, a face shield, ear muffs, thick leather welding gloves (to protect against the grinder) and a dust mask. I managed to pull off the whole job without any injuries.
"I give you a republic, if you can keep it." - Benjamin Franklin
I used the strip disk type and the flap disks with pretty good results. For the smaller detailed work I used those small 2" disks with the short screw thread on the back to fit the arbor, in my air angle grinder. Wear a dust mask and keep a fan going to pull the dust away.
That CJ tub did prove to be to much work to bring back. I cut out some of the rust areas and tried to tack patch panels back in with a flux core welder and didn't have good results. There was going to be quite a bit of panel repair to be done so off to the crusher it went. $19.25 is what I got for it...
I now have a YJ tub that is pretty clean except for the front floor pans. I'm going to use panel adhesive to install those or I'll hire someone to weld them in. The sides of the tub seem to be rust free with no damage to the paint; my question is on using POR on the tub. I know it "wants" to be applied over rust, but what about over factory paint? Should I sand the paint off to go down to bare metal or use the Prep and Ready and go over the factory paint? I know that if I go down to bare metal, I will find any hidden rust, but the tub is pretty clean already.
IMO, it's just cheaper and less time consuming to just replace your sides with new metal. I replaced both sides of my 78 CJ-5 with aftermarket sides from 4-wd a few years ago. I went the cheap route and bought the side panels without the JEEP logo, (so what, everybody knows what it is), and you can always put a five dollar JEEP sticker in its place.
Taking the sides off really wasn't a difficult tasks, some sharp drill bits and a bunch of 4 inch cut wheels, and go at it. The biggest pain was getting a good angle to weld the corners. I don't have the gate style tub, so it was trail/error until I could get a couple good welds in place. But agree with Renegade...BRACE BRACE BRACE.
I've found that anytime I have a question as to whether or not something should or should not be done with paint, primer POR, etc. is to contact the manufacturer. I know there's plenty of people that have experience with it all but the mfgr. can tell you what's best, like the old saying goes "straight from the horse's mouth".
I used a YJ tub on my CJ build. The paint on it was great, except the dent in it. I was going to take all the paint off but my body shop friend told me to leave it. He says it's better rust protection than most anything I could do. You do need to sand it and apply some type of primer/sealer over it though. I used Omni AU MP 170. It's a 2 part epoxy. From what I can tell it's worked great. I put it on under the body filler too. They say it's not needed but it's good insurance against rust.
Hello Jim, thanks for the info. I just don't want to spend the money on strip discs and my time removing all of the factory paint to get down to bare metal for the POR if it isn't necessary. My thought was that if there is even a small amount of rust hidden under the paint, and I go over it with POR, will it continue to rust or will it be "encapsulated".
I agree with Jim about the "horses mouth" but I can pretty well guess they will tell you no, don't apply over paint. The problem is when you do that the connection of the paint to the metal is only as good as the first layer of paint. The POR would be connected to the paint not the metal. So if the cheaper paint under it lets go of the metal, the POR is just along for the ride. They want the POR product knitted microscopically to the metal. This is why they require the prepping products. One removes any dirt or oils or residues of anything, then the other etches the metal which is like roughing a surface before painting.
Theres also the chemical issue as to which paint types can work together, ie: enamel, epoxy, urethane, latex, etc. Some types will lift others.
Im not sure if any one has put this out there yet but have you looked into a YJ tub? I picked up my 96 Yj tub with the family style roll bar for $600.. it is alot easier and less time consuming to to move the mounts then it is to cut, sand, prime and paint the work your about to do. unless your a professional body person your sides will be wavy and if not properly treated will begin to rust pretty quickly under your paint.
88 YJ 35's 8.8 rear, family style roll bar, ax-15 external slave conversion, Custom double D fab dash 4" of lift taurus fan, Head light wiring upgrade, MSD 6al, JB conversions SYE, 258 with RV cam, Long tube headers, Borla exhaust. 1"mm, Auto meter gauges.
Renegade thanks for the advice and after pulling the tub outside today I noticed some bubbling and thin spots on the rocker panels that I hadn't noticed before. Ive decided the best thing to do is to go down to bare steel so I can find all of the hidden rot. I can then apply the por directly to bare metal. I'll have to pick up a case of 40grit sanding discs!
Your welcome. Doing this will also reveal any bondo that might be hidden under otherwise good looking paint. Some guys have had luck with strippers (paint strippers that is) but they first had to rough up the outer gloss to let the chemical work into the base. It can be messy though. Personally I went the sanding route with the tub but I still have the hood, fenders, grille, and tailgate to do and I got a lead on a place that soda blasts parts, so I may go that route for the rest.
I'm still working on the tub and metal work. I picked up a hardtop today and plan on repairing it on my four day. It has a few spots where I'll be doing some fiberglass work and one window needs to be put back in. Ive been looking into how to install a new windshield and I see there is an adhesive that you use between the glass seal and the windshield frame. Do I need to use adhesive on the hardtop side windows? I remember my old top had a small leak at the side windows in heavy rain. Would a layer of caulk between the seal and glass and the outer seal and top frame work?