Help after the carb rebuild... - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep CJ Forum > Help after the carb rebuild...

Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed LineRuffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!ROCK BOTTOM prices on LIFT KITS at Rockridge4wd!! WANT TO

Reply
Unread 01-16-2010, 06:20 PM   #1
pcg7384
Registered User
1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Oregon
Posts: 148
Help after the carb rebuild...

I just kitted my Carter 2bbl BBD carb and now it has issues (more so than before). The mixture screws don't seem to do anything and when I drive it, it will idle for about 30 seconds before it chokes to death. I opened up the hood and it's leaking gas from one bottom gaskets (new) and is dripping gas into the bowl after the motor is off for a good 5 min. I can hear a gurgling sound which I assume is gas continuing to trickle into the carb.

When doing the kit I followed the instructions and thought I re-adjusted everything but I guess not. I haven't thrown anything away so I could easily put the old parts back on. The concerns I have are the float and pump adjustments.

pcg7384 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-16-2010, 06:41 PM   #2
baldfatdad
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: florida
Posts: 614
how did you clean the carb?
baldfatdad is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-16-2010, 07:17 PM   #3
pcg7384
Registered User
1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Oregon
Posts: 148
carb cleaner in the can
pcg7384 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-16-2010, 09:08 PM   #4
baldfatdad
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: florida
Posts: 614
you need to get a carb cleaning kit. Comes in a gallon can. It has a basket in it to put parts. Follow the instuctions to the letter. Blow the carb clean with air when you're done. Then re-read the carb kit assemblu instructions and follow them exactly. Do things in the steps they tell you. Don't go out of sequence.
You also need to check the base and upper part of the carb for flatness. 800 grit sand paper layed on a piece of glass (glass is a flat surface), Make figure 8's with the part, then check the wear pattern to make sure its flat. This or the gasket being in backwards or upside down could be the leak at the base.
TAKE YOUR TIME. IF it doesn't work, leave it a day and do it again. Sometimes it helps to have someone else read the instuctions to you. I use to have my kid do it. He learned to read and I got to look at the stuff while I listened to the instuctions.
baldfatdad is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-16-2010, 09:20 PM   #5
shok47
Registered User
1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 396
don't forget to be easy on the wrenches, the nuts and bolts only take like 10lb/ft. Just if you didnt know
shok47 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-16-2010, 09:42 PM   #6
Cutlass327
Web Wheeler
 
Cutlass327's Avatar
1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Beach City, Ohio
Posts: 5,153
Usually if the mix adjust screws don't change anything then the idle is too high - the throttle blades are open far enough that the carb is in the transition circuit, which 'overpowers' the idle ckt. The Idle may have to be so high because of the extra fuel being dumped into the engine from the leaks. Verify the float levels too - aren't these the carbs that the fuel line attachment fitting is also the float adjustment?
__________________
Rick

1978 CJ5 258/T177/D300, '86 D30/D44 WT axles, 'glass tub windshield frame, and fenders, 31x10.5 BFG A/T, TDK galv'd frame - DD and weekend toy

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ri...8-cj5-1223197/
Cutlass327 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-17-2010, 05:19 AM   #7
Dngrs1
Registered User
1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Mohave Valley,AZ
Posts: 822
When I rebuilt my BBD I found out that the idle mixture screws were two different sizes. Take them out and look at the holes to make sure. One was short and fat, the other longer and skinny.
Dngrs1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-17-2010, 07:04 AM   #8
Mike Romain
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Off the Grid in Chester Grant, Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 13,962
To get the 'best' help in a forum, you should make one thread per problem. You now have 3 going on per problem.... Folks don't always see the other threads so don't know what the history is or what has been tried already or what you found 'broken'....

I have been cleaning and kitting carbs for years and haven't ever use a dip pot, I only have access to the spray carb cleaner usually. Be wary, there is a 'throttle body' cleaner as well as a 'carb' cleaner. They don't mix and match well, the TB cleaner won't work well on a carb and the carb cleaner will dissolve a TB.

First thought is the float level is way too high. well, it has to be to have gas pouring like you describe. Did you need to adjust it much? Usually they need very little adjustment. Did you have any issues putting the new float needle and seat in?

You also need to use two wrenches when putting on the gas line or you will mess up the float level pretty bad. The fitting in the carb has to be held from moving when the gas line gets tightened on but this usually makes the float too low so may not be any issue to you.

You have to be exact and kinda gentle when doing things like the vacuum piston adjustment and pump adjustment. The idle speed screw also 'has' to be backed off for this like the directions say.

I think the float is your whole issue at this point. There is also another way the idle mix screws don't work and that is if you get the carb baseplate spacer in upside down. It has notches that must be on the top side.

In one of your other threads you mention a broken dashpot. Do you mean the sol-vac unit? Sol-Vac If so, it is only usually used for AC and an automatic and can be ignored. Did your idle linkage even have a screw that will hit on it?

One last thing regarding the gas running after a shutdown. Do you have the proper gas filter in it and is is sititng level with the center line to the carb and the top line to the return line? The return line needs to be at the top so on a hot shutdown the vapors released go back tothe tank via the return line rather than vapor lock the gas line by pushing all the gas out.

Then again a really high float level will allow it to dribble gas internally for a while.
__________________
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
Mike Romain is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 01-17-2010, 07:09 AM   #9
Mike Romain
Registered User
1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Off the Grid in Chester Grant, Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 13,962
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dngrs1 View Post
When I rebuilt my BBD I found out that the idle mixture screws were two different sizes. Take them out and look at the holes to make sure. One was short and fat, the other longer and skinny.
I have seen that before. The screws get worn springs from overtightening them before adjustment or from rust fatigue. The books all say to seat them 'gently'. Then the spring is weak and the screw just plain falls out and someone has replaced it with another.

That makes it a bit of a bear to adjust the idle mix and not have 3 cylinders running rich or lean. I usually believe the long pointy screw and when I reach the best lean idle mix, I try the short fat one some more to see if it is also affecting the lean stumble at the same number of turns the pointy one does. They are usually within a half turn of each other.
__________________
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
Mike Romain is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.