HEI module/Stealth HEI will not cooperate - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 5 Old 09-05-2009, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
Olrev
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1981 CJ7 
 
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HEI module/Stealth HEI will not cooperate

Recently upgraded;TeamRush, E-coil, dedicated grounds, and tried the HEI module. I've tried 3 different modules and they all affect my timing negatively. I can put the stock Motorcraft ignition module back in and it runs fine. Has anyone else run into this?

Yes, I hear your...."Just stick the factory ignition dummy!". I guess I can't leave well enough alone. From what I've read, the e-coil tends to fry the stock module.

Any input?

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post #2 of 5 Old 09-06-2009, 05:27 AM
Mike Romain
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'Upgrades' huh.....

If you keep a ballast resistor in the circuit, the ignition module will work fine with a hotter coil, I have been running an Accel SuperCoil for ten years now as my 'only' ignition mode besides killing the computer, all the rest of mine is stock and it runs very well. Accel told me via email to just keep the resistor wire in there, they were right.

I have heard of folks having issues if they don't get the orange and purple pickup wires right, there is a plus and negative side there.

Here is how my stock (no computer, Nuttered) engine runs with 91 octane ESSO gas and the timing set at 8-9 BTDC using the stock carb, OEM cap, rotor and wires (from Jeep Dealership) and an Accel coil with 3.31 gears turning 33's. (while still passing emissions and giving 21 mph highway)

1st lights up the 33's 'way' too easy off a stop. 2nd hauls fast to 52 mph@4400 rpm. 3rd pulls hard to 75 mph. 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find out how fast 5th will go.... It also will crawl up a sand pit wall or ravine wall at 400 rpm without a chug, get too steep and it just churns the tires in...

I mean what more could I ask for out of a poor old 258?

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
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post #3 of 5 Old 09-06-2009, 05:36 AM Thread Starter
Olrev
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Location: McCalla, AL
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Yep, I need to get this figured out and leave it alone. I originally started out with replacing an HEI distributor and decided to do the whole ignition. I think i've narrowed it down to either the resistor wire or a ground issue with the HEI module. If I don't nail it down today, I'm going back with the stock coil and factory ignition module and I'll just keep a spare with me.
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post #4 of 5 Old 09-06-2009, 05:38 AM
Renegade86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
'Upgrades' huh.....

If you keep a ballast resistor in the circuit, the ignition module will work fine with a hotter coil, I have been running an Accel SuperCoil for ten years now as my 'only' ignition mode besides killing the computer, all the rest of mine is stock and it runs very well. Accel told me via email to just keep the resistor wire in there, they were right.

I have heard of folks having issues if they don't get the orange and purple pickup wires right, there is a plus and negative side there.

Here is how my stock (no computer, Nuttered) engine runs with 91 octane ESSO gas and the timing set at 8-9 BTDC using the stock carb, OEM cap, rotor and wires (from Jeep Dealership) and an Accel coil with 3.31 gears turning 33's. (while still passing emissions and giving 21 mph highway)

1st lights up the 33's 'way' too easy off a stop. 2nd hauls fast to 52 mph@4400 rpm. 3rd pulls hard to 75 mph. 4th buries the speedometer and I have 'no' urge to find out how fast 5th will go.... It also will crawl up a sand pit wall or ravine wall at 400 rpm without a chug, get too steep and it just churns the tires in...

I mean what more could I ask for out of a poor old 258?
Thanks for that info Mr. Romain. Will soon be making the upgrade to HEI myself.
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post #5 of 5 Old 09-09-2009, 04:00 AM
John Strenk
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Also twist the wires running from the distributor to the module or you could be picking up some extraneous noise impulses causing it to miss-fire.
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