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Unread 07-20-2011, 08:55 AM   #31
JeepHammer
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1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82KansasCJ View Post
Where did you tie in the front quick connect for the jumper cables?
Primary battery starter solenoid 'Battery' cable side and dedicated ground when I didn't have a winch,

Once the winch was installed, there is power at the front bumper, so I connected to winch solenoid terminals to shorten the small cable run.

My jumper/snow plow/inverter connection cables are MUCH smaller (4 Ga.) than the winch power cables,
I use the smaller 175 Amp connectors since 175 Amps is plenty to run the snow plow pump/electronics, inverter or to jump another vehicle off and I don't have to mess with the big 350 Amp connectors.

4 Ga. is enough to weld with if you keep the cable length reasonable...
Know anyone that exceeds 175 amps when welding? I sure don't!

And since this is welding off batteries, you don't want to burn large diameter rods anyway, and small diameter rods take a lot less amperage to burn.

Usually around 60 to 105 amps for a very short period of time, so the 4 Ga. works fine for Jumpers/Accessory connector...

------------------------------------------

As for 'Duckbone',

Yup, I didn't answer for a reason...

It was a 'Serious' thread, I'm not given to 'Humor' or anything that can be misconstrued, misunderstood or ignored when I'm doing these builds...
So I take most questions seriously.

I guess 'Duckbone' is still suffering from 'pIRATE 4x4' Syndrome...
Honest questions get honest answers, all others are ignored.

--------------------------

I don't order from 'West Marine' anymore.
There isn't one locally, they are horribly overpriced, you have to wait on EVERYTHING, and if I can't replace the 'Consumables' at any parts store, I don't use the parts.

As for 'Two Minutes',
That would be two minutes at a time, cool down, and another two minutes.
Easier pulls, where the motor doesn't heat up so much, or if I use a snatch block so it doesn't lug as hard, I can go well over two minutes...

My batteries will do 4 'Full Pulls' with cool down and recover periods without issues,
And I haven't found anything I can't be out of in 8 minutes of actual pulling time,
Plus, there is the option of starting the engine and letting the batteries recharge if I need to...
I can do 4 'Full Pulls' and still get the engine to start/run/charge...
There is a reason for the 'DCM' batteries! I'm going to lug them down pretty far if I'm off camber and can't get the engine to run,
Or so deep in water I can't get the engine to run...

The winch should get me back to a point where I can get the engine running/charging, and that's what I'm shooting for... Without melting the insulation off the cables or burning up the winch motor.
(Yes, I've had 2 Ga., and even 1 Ga. insulation smoking before!)

I'm just trying to build this as 'Bullet Proof' as possible.
"OVER BUILT" is accurate,
Most of us 'Over Build' for a reason! The 'What If...?" situations we find ourselves in.

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Unread 11-03-2011, 06:15 PM   #32
yahwhy
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hows the winch holding up for you?
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Unread 11-03-2011, 09:50 PM   #33
scooter18155
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1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: ilion ny
Posts: 151
I just wanted to say ty for another great write up from jeephammer. plus wondering if someone could post a link to his website i seen mentioned earlier. Id like to read and see what other brilliant things he has to teach us.
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Unread 11-03-2011, 10:47 PM   #34
bentring
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http://www.junkyardgenius.com/jeep/project01.html
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Unread 12-03-2011, 08:16 PM   #35
Galt
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Your just full of good threads aren't you? Please make certain to keep your signature links up. There is a lot there to chew on.
Thanks one last time for putting these threads together.
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Unread 02-01-2012, 03:46 PM   #36
jcallen
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Where do u find those connectors. I've looked every where with no luck
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Unread 02-01-2012, 04:51 PM   #37
bentring
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I found them on amazon as forklift battery cable connectors.
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Unread 05-05-2012, 03:55 PM   #38
mikeyc66
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As JeepHammer said they are cheap and abundant on eBay. I starting buy my parts today to upgrade my Scrambler. Just be careful where ever you buy them from and get the 175A or 320A version of the plug. You will find ten 50A listings on eBay to every one of the larger plugs.

Mr. Hammer, just about every thread posted in your signature line at least once and have to extend a huge thank you for you simplicity and thoroughness. Now i just hope i can morph your ideas to fit my application. Thanks again for the great work.
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Unread 07-28-2012, 11:54 PM   #39
SemperFi1371
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"A 1982 or older penny will be about 95% copper, so for 1 you can have a large contact copper 'Washer' to help spread the load out and be a sacrificial material for the steel contacts to mash the crap out of.
Grab your drill and go to town!

I also solder them to the outside nuts to help conduct current through the nut to the terminal bolt."

*NOTE: I am not knocking anything in this write up!*

I love the write up, but this part is against the law actually. You can't even take more than $5 worth of pennies or nickels out of the country...like the "penny hoarders" buying $100 worth of pennies for $200, they're banking (pun intended) on fed stopping production of the penny so they can scrap/melt-down and make profit (Nickel $7.2360/lb, Zinc $0.8390/lb, Copper $3.4317/lb as of today)
As I said, just an FYI...

http://www.usmint.gov/pressroom/?act...release&ID=724

PS
Of course, you can use Maple Leafs if you're in the US, Lincoln's if you're in CA!
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Unread 08-02-2012, 02:29 PM   #40
PhatBasturd
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Hammer, where you at??

1. Do you have the Warn part number for the newer contactor controller on the M8000?

2. What is your opinion on breaker(s) or fuse(s) at the battery to protect the power feed to the winch? Specifically for a SINGLE battery set up.
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Unread 11-24-2013, 01:18 PM   #41
JeepHammer
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Any 'Fuse' to a winch will reduce the current flow to that winch, I don't use them.
I take care to REALLY insulate and protect the cables, even running them through metal tubing (Flared Ends) to protect cables at times...

When was the last time you saw a commercial winch install kit with a 'Breaker' or 'Fuse'?

With mine, I can pull the quick connects if something goes horribly wrong, but with most they are direct wired and that's it.
It's up to you to protect the cables, especially the positive cable...
Garden hose, heater hose, extra heat shrink (Expensive!) are all good for general 'Rub' conditions,
But when you go through or under the grill/crossmember, I use metal tubing to protect the cables.

I find this heavy of cable has a tendency to rub through even heavy grommets/pliable insulation, so tubing flared at both ends, shoved though the holes in the sheet metal grill, or bend to fit under crossmember/grill work pretty well.

Nothing like armor for the amperage the battery will throw if it gets grounded out! That's a fire starter for sure, along with killing your battery before you can get things disconnected...

I did see a guy not long ago that used steel braided line over the battery cables. He went through the grill, and the vibration from operation was sawing slots in the grill since the steel braided line was harder than the grill steel...
Looked like it was doing a pretty good job on the cross member and winch bracket also since he didn't have it clamped down with vibration reducing (Rubber coated) cable clamps...
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Unread 11-24-2013, 01:23 PM   #42
JeepHammer
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Location: South West Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SemperFi1371 View Post
"A 1982 or older penny will be about 95% copper, so for 1 you can have a large contact copper 'Washer' to help spread the load out and be a sacrificial material for the steel contacts to mash the crap out of.
Grab your drill and go to town!

I also solder them to the outside nuts to help conduct current through the nut to the terminal bolt."

*NOTE: I am not knocking anything in this write up!*

I love the write up, but this part is against the law actually. You can't even take more than $5 worth of pennies or nickels out of the country...like the "penny hoarders" buying $100 worth of pennies for $200, they're banking (pun intended) on fed stopping production of the penny so they can scrap/melt-down and make profit (Nickel $7.2360/lb, Zinc $0.8390/lb, Copper $3.4317/lb as of today)
As I said, just an FYI...

http://www.usmint.gov/pressroom/?act...release&ID=724

PS
Of course, you can use Maple Leafs if you're in the US, Lincoln's if you're in CA!
Didn't see anything about using one for your own use, just scrapping them.
It's probably like the 'Modification' law,
You can make coins into jewelry, but you can't modify them for counterfeiting purposes...

I'm not counterfeiting, I'm not scrapping for profit, so I'm pretty much exempt from that law.
If they want to push the issue, I'll go buy a box of dead soft copper brake line washers and swap things over the next time I do service on the starter relays...

I would think tracking terrorism money would be a better use of their time, but it's the government, and common sense doesn't enter into their way of doing things...
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Unread 11-24-2013, 01:30 PM   #43
JeepHammer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yahwhy View Post
hows the winch holding up for you?
PERFECT! The M-8000 was EXACTLY the winch for my little CJ-5!
I can't hardly get myself into a situation where it won't get me out.

To the guys that threw into the fund that produced that winch, THANKS AGAIN!

IT SIMPLY ROCKS!
Once the little issues were cleared up, it worked FLAWLESSLY! No issues at all!

I've only missed a 'Cordless Remote' one time, when I was setting roof trusses by myself... That would have been a good time for a key fob remote, but I'm sure most people won't miss that for a second, and every other time the corded remote has worked fine with no issues.

Most of the time, I hook up, flip the dash switch to winch while I'm steering.
Hooking up that dash switch makes things SO MUCH MORE SIMPLE than getting out, plugging in, trying to figure out where the cable won't get snagged when you run the winch from the cab, ect.

Anyway, like I said, I can't recommend that particular winch enough for a little Jeep.
Needs to be larger for heavier vehicles, I've come close to stalling it, but never actually stalled it yet, no matter when mud was creeping over the door sills, it still kept pulling and got me out!
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