heater woes - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 6 Old 12-09-2002, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
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heater woes

alright ....its cold outside and my heater fans decides to stop...any ideas of connections to check??? detailed replys are welcomed!!!


83 Scrambler, 33" mud terrains, NV4500, Centerforce Clutch, Dana 300, 350 ci, edelbrock 650 carb, 4" BDS springs, ss braid brake lines, currie greasable shackles, OBA-YORK-2.5gal tank, Hood lift

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post #2 of 6 Old 12-09-2002, 06:47 PM
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Cool heater woes

Never fails, they run good all summer and then take a $#it when it's really needed. Check the fitting on the motor(firewall) it my be loose,check ground and if all is good then we get into money.If the motor went south,now is the time to put a Chevy Blazer motor in. If it's the switch(which is my problem, you got me,that is what I'd like to know. How do you check that part fellas?
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post #3 of 6 Old 12-09-2002, 07:18 PM
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this is part of a conversation between someone selling some heater parts in the Seller section of this site.

OK... I am not positive what kind I have although I have droped teh whole unit once or twice in an effort to try and fix the AC in it. I don't know why I wanted AC just thought if it was on it originally i would like to have it in the most original condition. Anywho, yeah the heater is on the back of the ac unit and it has a defroster duct that goes up to the windshield (which I am missing that duct piece) yeah but the motor is in working condition I am pretty sure cause when I turn the fan nob on the AC unit it cranks out air.. or is that the AC fan are there two different fans one for AC an one for heater if so how do I get the heater to come on. I am very confused by this cause neither the AC or heater works and I would love to have them in working condition. The AC unit has two nobs one for the power lever of the fan and the other for the compressor (I think) the AC used to work and one day I was driving down the road witht eh AC on and the entire Jeep filled up with a thick black smoke and the AC stoped working I later looked at the fuse box and the fuse for the AC unit completely melted out the box. Thants another story... bottom line I dont know what is the matter witht her unit and I Would like to get my AC and heater functioning. Let me know if there is anything you know about the situation.

Basically before the fuse melted out both the heater and the AC worked fine now I cant feel any heat... wait thats a lie. I can feel a TINY bit of heat from under the dash area when i pull out the heat nob... also the fan turn nob that is the top nob on the dash is that supposed to opperate the heater motor cause when i turn that NOTHING happens that may be my problem anyone know anything please let me know

"Last of a Great Breed"

Email me at: JoKing045@msn.com

1986 CJ-7 (completely stock)
258 I6 2bbl carb
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post #4 of 6 Old 12-09-2002, 09:52 PM
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hey Crotz, I had the same problem , it turns out after all the searching and checking circuits, all it was was the wire that connects to the heater motor at the firewall was just loose enough that it wasn't making enough contact, but it appeared to be connected fine. Hopefully it's that simple for you.
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post #5 of 6 Old 12-10-2002, 09:24 AM
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quick trouble shooting

A quick way to determine what is wrong. If you have a Multi Meter, most people call a volt meter, but in order to complete this task with out taking much apart you'll need a Multi meter.
First, check your voltage to the heater switch. With the ingnition on, you should see around 12 volts at the switch. Second turn the switch on, and look at the voltage at the output of the heater switch. Now it should display 12 volts. If it doesn't it is a good posibility that you have a bad switch. Jump a piece of wire from the input to the output and see if the fan turns on. If the switch is good continue here. Go to the input of the fan and with the switch on check for voltage. There should be 12 VDC there. If there is we must check the ground path, this is what jeepdad40 was talking about. Find a good ground on the firewall and place the MM ground there, set the MM to ohms ( little horseshoe looking symbol), some meter just have a continuity check setting, maybe you have that? So, connect the other lead to the ground out at the motor. You should get continuity from the motor ground to the firewall, or even back to the battery negative. If you don't have ground, that could be the problem, (jeepdad40's problem - no ground path). If you do have a ground path, and 12 volts at the input,you have a bad motor... I know this seems long, but should be quick and easy.
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post #6 of 6 Old 12-10-2002, 11:08 AM
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WOW that makes alot os sense... No sarcasm intended. See I do have a multi meter and I knew there was a quick way to do it but I couldnt think about it. I will try this as soon as it stops raining out here. NON-STOP rain for the past week.

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Email me at: JoKing045@msn.com

1986 CJ-7 (completely stock)
258 I6 2bbl carb
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