Heater Upgrade - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 45 Old 12-17-2007, 09:23 PM
VaCJ79
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bdd your are going to be happy with the difference. I got mine in today and it was like someone installed a leaf blower under my dash when I turned it on high. Finally, my jeep get warm enough to go around in a tshirt and I have a softtop. The only problem I had was I used a 3 1/4 hole saw and I think I should have used 3 1/2. I had to grind the hole a little bigger all the way around.

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post #17 of 45 Old 12-23-2007, 05:45 PM
Lupo10
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OK. So I'm now in the middle of this upgrade as we speak. I unknowingly purcahsed the 105 model Blazer motor and indeed the shaft is too long. What to do? Short of returing the motor (which I purchased 2 weeks ago for $17 from NAPA by the way). Any answers greatly appreciated. Also I haven't cut the hole yet but spent $15 on a 3 1/4 hole saw bit. It looks like I'll need the 3 1/2. Should I get a 3 1/2 and return the 3 1/4?

1995 Wrangler stock
1985 CJ-7 with a blown engine.
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post #18 of 45 Old 12-23-2007, 06:24 PM
b.d.d.
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You could cut the shaft, then you will need a die to cut new threads on. Or...you could just cut threads on down the shaft and leave it the lengthe it is. I'd just take it back and get the shorter one if they had one in stock.

As for the hole, you will have to screw a piece of metal in the current hole so you will have a pilot hole for the drill to go through and keep centered. I just used my little jig saw. It's not dead nuts perfect, but then again I'm not launching the space shuttle. Just trying to get my Jeep warmer.

83 CJ8
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post #19 of 45 Old 12-23-2007, 06:47 PM
VaCJ79
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I'd just get the shorter shaft but that just me because I don't have the correct tools. I got the 3 1/4 and had to make the hole bigger. 3 1/2 probably would have worked better. Had to grind the hole slightly bigger. You will need a pilot hole. I used a pieces of 1 x 4 which I put on the engine side of the fire wall and covered the hole. I held this in place by screwing little peices of wood in side the cabin to the 1x4.... I had some un used holes. Hope this helps
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post #20 of 45 Old 12-23-2007, 08:48 PM
Lupo10
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Thanks. I think I'll take the motor back and get the other one. But what do I ask for? A motor for what type of vehicle? As for the hole I have a piece of aluminum I'm going to cut and screw into the firewall to use for the pilot. There's an article floating around the net that I printed out a few months ago. I "was" following it verbatim until today. Thanks again!

1995 Wrangler stock
1985 CJ-7 with a blown engine.
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post #21 of 45 Old 12-23-2007, 09:38 PM
Lupo10
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I'm going to NAPA tomorrow and will let you know how I make out (if they're even open) but it seems I'm not the first and probably not the last to get the wrong motor. The correct NAPA part seems to be 655-1039 or 455-1039 as opposed to what I have (655-1076). Hope this info comes in handy to someone else.

1995 Wrangler stock
1985 CJ-7 with a blown engine.
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post #22 of 45 Old 12-23-2007, 09:58 PM
b.d.d.
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Dear Lord - I think I can now drive naked with the top off in snow storm. If I had a time machine, I would go find the guy from AMC that thought it would be a good idea to install such a POS blower motor and beat him upside his head with it. I guess I shouldn't be too hard on the poor sap, I did replace my heater core too.

Conclusion - yes the upgrade is like night and day. I can't believe how hot it is now.

83 CJ8
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post #23 of 45 Old 12-24-2007, 04:31 AM
solitudetree
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I felt the same way when I finished mine two years ago. Major difference.

All the Jeeps I've owned
79 CJ5 258 six with a weber (current vehicle) T18/Dana20
81 CJ5 258 six (driven out of Alaska thru Canada in winter with a softtop)
75 Jeep Wagoneer 360V8
79 Jeep Cherokee 258 six
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post #24 of 45 Old 12-25-2007, 07:01 AM
Rollbar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lupo10
The correct NAPA part seems to be 655-1039 or 455-1039 as opposed to what I have (655-1076).
Please let us know the correct part # from NAPA.

Thanks
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post #25 of 45 Old 12-25-2007, 08:15 AM
tomthbomb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wswartzwel
I just did mine yesterday...Took about 3 hours
Obviously no beer involved here.

1978 CJ-7 original owner; AMC 401 V-8 (w/some goodies);NP4500;D300 (w/Curry 4:1); D44 front;AMC20 (Warn one piece axles) rear
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post #26 of 45 Old 12-25-2007, 11:32 AM
jp360cj
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Just got the chevy blower motor for Christmas and am looking forward to the change. Just 1 question....do i need to replace the heater core too? and if so, with one for a Jeep or Chevy?

77 CJ-7- AMC 360, Edelbrock cam, MC2100, Fenderwells, CJ T18/D20, Chevy D44/EB 9" rear, Trutrac f/r, 4.11, SOA, 1.25 lift shackles, 35x12.50 BFG KM2s, Shackle Reversal
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post #27 of 45 Old 12-25-2007, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp360cj
Just got the chevy blower motor for Christmas and am looking forward to the change. Just 1 question....do i need to replace the heater core too? and if so, with one for a Jeep or Chevy?
It's a good idea to replace it while you're in there. Use a stock type Jeep one. It's a real PIA when it starts leaking a day or week latter, if you leave the old one in there.

'81 Scrambler w/ FI 360 AMC, 33x12.50 BFG M/T's, 5" of lift, ARB'd Dana 44's F & R, Dana 300 clocked & twin sticked w/4:1, Warn XD9000i, etc...
2002 Grand Cherokee Limited, 2008 Overland Grand Cherokee, a 1976 CJ-7 in pieces and 3 more off-brand 4x4s...............
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post #28 of 45 Old 12-25-2007, 12:26 PM
solitudetree
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I would recommend replacing the heater core at the same. It only makes sense since you're going to be draining the radiator anyway. Why do it twice when you can do it all at once. Also, test fit the motor before you start reassembly to make sure your hole is large enough.

You can use a Jeep heater core.

All the Jeeps I've owned
79 CJ5 258 six with a weber (current vehicle) T18/Dana20
81 CJ5 258 six (driven out of Alaska thru Canada in winter with a softtop)
75 Jeep Wagoneer 360V8
79 Jeep Cherokee 258 six
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post #29 of 45 Old 12-25-2007, 04:21 PM
jp360cj
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I started taking out the blower motor, and I don't have to drain the water or go anywhere near the heater core. According to Chilton's I have the old style (pre 78) where the blower motor sticks out under the glove box. Just a few bolts and the motor/backing plate come right off...Will I just have to drill out the hole or fab up a new mounting plate to get the clearance I need? I'm really looking input from someone who has done this on a 77 or older.

77 CJ-7- AMC 360, Edelbrock cam, MC2100, Fenderwells, CJ T18/D20, Chevy D44/EB 9" rear, Trutrac f/r, 4.11, SOA, 1.25 lift shackles, 35x12.50 BFG KM2s, Shackle Reversal
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post #30 of 45 Old 12-25-2007, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jp360cj
I started taking out the blower motor, and I don't have to drain the water or go anywhere near the heater core. According to Chilton's I have the old style (pre 78) where the blower motor sticks out under the glove box. Just a few bolts and the motor/backing plate come right off...Will I just have to drill out the hole or fab up a new mounting plate to get the clearance I need? I'm really looking input from someone who has done this on a 77 or older.

The blower motor upgrade they are talking about will not work in your situation. It's a whole different animal.

You need to read through this thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/blower-motor-questions-485194/
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