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#1 | |
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Heater Control Cables
Anyone know where I can find new Heater control cables for my 73 CJ5 ? Would 1978 set be far off ?
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73 CJ5, Original Owner, Fawn Beige / Black trim, 304 bored over, 2.5" lift, 15x10 Polish Alum, BFG MudT. |
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#2 | |
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Quote:
JC Whitney has them here
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1982 CJ7
Iron Duke "Hurricane" 151 CID 2.5L 4-Cyl T177 Tranny | Dana 300 T-Case Dana 30 Front | AMC 20 Rear |
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#3 | |
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Quote:
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#4 |
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The cables from JC Whitney are to long , wont work .
Same with the cables on ebay , most you will find are for 76 & up . I looked all over never found any for 75 below CJ,s . What cables do you need , measure the ones you need and send me a PM , I done a heater conversion and I have 2 of my old ones from my 1974 CJ 5 . |
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#5 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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1982 CJ7
Iron Duke "Hurricane" 151 CID 2.5L 4-Cyl T177 Tranny | Dana 300 T-Case Dana 30 Front | AMC 20 Rear |
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#6 |
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Eat, Sleep, Drink and Bleed JEEP.[QUOTE] Redneck Jeep Club Member#21 |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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If the dash mount sleeve will lock into my mounting panel, and the cable end is trimmable like the stock cables, then it should work.
Anybody try this ?
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73 CJ5, Original Owner, Fawn Beige / Black trim, 304 bored over, 2.5" lift, 15x10 Polish Alum, BFG MudT. |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Heater Cables
I went to NAPA and looked thrugh their selection of heavy duty choke cables. Found what I wantedand trimmrd them to length for my '74 CJ5. Even got one with a red knob for the heat control.
Had |
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#9 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
__________________
1982 CJ7
Iron Duke "Hurricane" 151 CID 2.5L 4-Cyl T177 Tranny | Dana 300 T-Case Dana 30 Front | AMC 20 Rear |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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I could not get the newer style cables to work with my '75 panel. They use a different way of securing to the panel. Don't waste your money. Find old style cables. Let me know when you do!
Cause I need one, too.
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'97 TJ '75 CJ5 304cid, t18 tranny w/granny low, model 20 T Case, DANA 44 rear, 30 front, 4" suspension lift, 33" tires, in need of more work! "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil, is for good men to do nothing." (Edmund Burke) |
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#11 |
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Thanks for the info lightningdon, I'm going to try and repair my broken ones. Have to engineer a way to glue/weld the broken plastic back together.
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73 CJ5, Original Owner, Fawn Beige / Black trim, 304 bored over, 2.5" lift, 15x10 Polish Alum, BFG MudT. |
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#12 |
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I used a tap and die set to add threads to the cable end. Then epoxied nuts into the pulls. Took a little work, but seems to work fine.
On a side note, I need an extra cable for a manual choke I added. Anyone have an old cable they would want to sell? |
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#13 | |
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Ah, nevermind then! Didn't know they *attached* differently!
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1982 CJ7
Iron Duke "Hurricane" 151 CID 2.5L 4-Cyl T177 Tranny | Dana 300 T-Case Dana 30 Front | AMC 20 Rear |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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Aphelion79, the newer style cables require a large square hole through which the cable goes. The end of the sheath has a molded on set of plastic spring clips that spring out to catch the back of the hole. The older style cables use a small round hole for the cable, and has a small C-clip that secures the cable in the panel. If you really wanted to use newer cables, you could cut up the panel to the appropriate size square hole. In addition the look of the newer is different than the old, so you would have to replace all your cables if concerned about the appearance. Of course the length is wrong for all the cables if switching to newer, too. Whatever floats yer boat, I suppose.
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'97 TJ '75 CJ5 304cid, t18 tranny w/granny low, model 20 T Case, DANA 44 rear, 30 front, 4" suspension lift, 33" tires, in need of more work! "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil, is for good men to do nothing." (Edmund Burke) |
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