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Stainless Steel Door Hinge PinsPoly Door Hinge BushingsDisc Brake Kits from ECGS

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Unread 10-31-2013, 01:04 PM   #511
hasselback
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The picture doesn't do it justice. It still is going to take alot of filler to make it look perfect. I'm not looking forward to the front right floorpan though. It's going to involve compound angles and curves.

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Unread 10-31-2013, 01:11 PM   #512
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Don't know if you thought of this yet. You might want to try the MC-2100 carb instead of the BBD. Some say it's like adding FI and very responsive.
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Unread 10-31-2013, 01:46 PM   #513
seabass1858
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I rebuilt my carter bbd, nuttered (remove stepper motor plug), bored my idle tubes with my hobby #67 drill bit on my dremel tool, and the thing is flawless. Ill post a video on my thread
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Unread 10-31-2013, 02:35 PM   #514
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Keep this in mind when doing the floor pan. Cut things slightly larger by maybe an 1/8" because with multiple sides your piece will never fit into place till the end and sometimes that's when the joints you thought were right on, open up! Nibble, nibble, nibble. Welding a seam "backer" out of the same thickness, to the underside will help hold the new piece in place and in plane while you shaping elsewhere. It will also strengthen the seam (if you then weld the other side to the new pc.) and it will give you some room for error. For instance, I did this across the front of my floor near the firewall because your not only dealing with multiple sides but with multiple angles as well and once that piece is able to drop into place, it seams to mysteriously shrink!

This was also a place where you can't get in to weld the bottomside due to the toe board. So it was welded good from the top and the bottom had lots of POR dripped into it and then was packed with seam sealer well, then POR'd again.
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Unread 10-31-2013, 05:53 PM   #515
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I did some research on the MC2100 carb, and may go that route if I decide to ditch the Carter, but it's running great now, so I'm not going to mess with it right now.

And that's a good tip on welding a backer plate behind some of my seams when patching. I welded up a gap in my quarter panel last night that was about 3/16 wide in one spot. I got er done though. And my rust in the floor board is towards the rear, right under the front of the seat. So I shouldn't be getting into the toe board underneath.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 05:48 PM   #516
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This was supposed to be my helper in the garage today, but turned out, he wasn't much help at all! Guess he'll have to go to the crock pot instead!
image-1397191317.jpg

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Unread 11-03-2013, 07:51 AM   #517
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Back to work this morning. Cut out the next bad spot right under the passenger door. This one should be much easier! It's only rusted about an inch back into the floor. Once this ones done, it's on to the drivers side for two spots, then inside for two spots on the floor. Should be done by this time next year!
image-1756548265.jpg

image-444629275.jpg

image-3669564227.jpg

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Unread 11-03-2013, 08:54 AM   #518
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Guess who I ran into yesterday? I heard the clanging of a big ol' diesel coming through the woods, and it turned out to be the rig from up at the Medix Hotel.

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Unread 11-03-2013, 09:00 AM   #519
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Ha, that's great! Where at?
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Unread 11-03-2013, 09:26 AM   #520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hasselback View Post
Ha, that's great! Where at?
We were up at Rock Run, near Ebensburg. They have a Toys for Tots event every year.
Running the black runs all day has both me and the Jeep all beat up.
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Unread 11-03-2013, 09:34 AM   #521
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That's cool. I always wanted to go down there! Maybe next year....
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Unread 11-03-2013, 09:38 AM   #522
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Our Club goes up every year. It's a pretty nice place, with everything from nice easy trail rides, to metal mashing rock runs.
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Unread 11-03-2013, 04:03 PM   #523
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Got the sandblaster out and got some rust off the door. Just a little perforation on it. Since its just a door, I wonder if I could get away with just coating it in Por, then body filler? Not too thrilled about replacing more sheet metal!

On the good side though, the bottom of the A pillar is rust free! Got tired of spot welding, so I quit for the night.....
image-99865541.jpg

image-2805375640.jpg

image-878316503.jpg

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Unread 11-04-2013, 08:53 AM   #524
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If I were to fix the door I'd replace metal. But if your set on another direction I would first take a pointed awl to those holes to see the extent of how thin the metal is in that area. And then if you STILL want to avoid a new metal patch, I would paint it with POR, then prime it before it's dry, then use fiberglass reinforced filler and press it in over those holes to get a good grip because it won't be a very thick coat.

But like I said, that area looks pitted so I'd make a cutout and patch it with new metal. (remove your glass before any welding) The filler patch won't last nearly as long.
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Unread 11-05-2013, 05:35 PM   #525
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Got another patch done tonight, which makes one whole side rust free now! Moved over to the drivers side now, and cut the old patch off that was over the rear wheel. You can see what was underneath. I still have good metal at the very back of the quarter panel, so I'm not sure yet if I'm going to make the entire panel like I did the other side. But I probably will anyway. After that, I still have the front right floor pan to look forward to! Every time I start losing hope, I remind myself how nice it will be in the end to have an original CJ tub still!

After the next panel, I might have to take a break for a bit, and fix something else like the transfer case!
image-2719921190.jpg

image-278424230.jpg

image-77596897.jpg

image-3618633501.jpg

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