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Unread 03-21-2010, 04:52 PM   #1
JeffKDX220
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1997 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Maine
Posts: 33
Has ANyone DOne This Before?

What im thinking of doing is a new school/old school build... what i want to do is put all cherokee drive line (motor, tranny, transfer case, front and rear ends) under the CJ7 i have. So it will be able to climb steep hills and start good in the cold. Keep it all leaf springs. I think that it would be cool and different. Any ideas? Or even better Pics of this already being done?

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Unread 03-21-2010, 05:00 PM   #2
Mike Romain
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Off the Grid in Chester Grant, Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 11,843
I am in the process of putting a Cherokee motor in mine, don't see the need to not use the rest of the CJ stuff, especially as I have a Dana 300 gear driven T case and a D44 rear stock.

I am not going to do the FI right away, my carb runs nice and don't have the time so I am even keeping that part for now.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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Unread 03-21-2010, 05:14 PM   #3
LT1CJ7
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1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: [duhm-as]
Posts: 4,512
Anything is possible, But not always practical.
I have a spare lawnmower in the back yard,
Doesn't mean I would swap it into my Jeep for better fuel mileage.
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Unread 03-21-2010, 05:20 PM   #4
gojeepin
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1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Riverview, Florida
Posts: 3,441
I've got a 4.0L engine in mine and it mated up to the CJ7 driveline perfectly. As for your other Cherokee driveline parts, sell them to someone and use the money to get a better fit for the CJ.
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Vibration? Bump steer? Wandering? Read: Steering, suspension, and driveline basics. An article on how it works and where to look for problems.

83 CJ7, 4.1L 6cyl (4.0L bored .030" over), 35" tires, T-5 transmission, Dana 300 TC, Trussed AMC 20.
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Unread 03-21-2010, 05:22 PM   #5
crcj7
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: cary
Posts: 759
you would be supprised how steep of a hill you have to go up to lose fuel to the motor . and with those axles you would not be any stronger then the cj with minor up grades . the only advantage i can see is the hi pinion front and fi is good with cold starts .
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Unread 03-22-2010, 04:57 AM   #6
Dngrs1
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1979 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Mohave Valley,AZ
Posts: 785
I've always thought about putting the vacuum locker front axle from a Cherokee under the front of my CJ.
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Unread 03-22-2010, 08:18 AM   #7
CSP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dngrs1 View Post
I've always thought about putting the vacuum locker front axle from a Cherokee under the front of my CJ.
Sounds like you have some terminology wrong. There is no such thing as a vacuum locker that was offered in any model of Jeep.

There are front axles that engage one axleshaft via vacuum, but that's a far cry from being a locker.
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Unread 03-22-2010, 08:51 AM   #8
rustymudder
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1982 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Posts: 290
I wouldn't swap the axles or Tcase, just swap in a 4.0L and an AX-15 and adapt it to the dana 300. the adaptor is pretty cheap, relatively speaking.
The dana 35 is a turd, much worse than an AMC 20
the cherokee dana 30 is a little stronger I think?, but that seems like way too much work for no appreciable strength increase. If you want to go through the trouble of an axle swap, just go with a waggy dana 44.
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Unread 03-22-2010, 09:11 AM   #9
JeepHammer
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1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
Posts: 9,950
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffKDX220 View Post
What im thinking of doing is a new school/old school build... what i want to do is put all cherokee drive line (motor, tranny, transfer case, front and rear ends) under the CJ7 i have. So it will be able to climb steep hills and start good in the cold. Keep it all leaf springs. I think that it would be cool and different. Any ideas? Or even better Pics of this already being done?
That would depend on if it were automatic transmission or manual transmission.

FSJ MANUAL transmissions are set back about 5" so the shifter is better located for the driver to use,
But that same 5" in a CJ Jeep will put the shifter too far back in the vehicle and look pretty silly with the stick between the seats!

It also takes 5" of drive line space you need for the rear drive shaft.

If it's an Automatic, you might just get away with it depending on the transfer case,
Some are quite long in the FSJs and will eat into your rear dive shaft length.

Wider FSJ axles will give you better stability on the trails, but if you keep leaf springs you will have to outboard your front spring mounts at the frame.
This is usually nothing more than bolting on some supported angle iron mounts for the springs to mount outboard of the frame, and is VERY doable,
Many of us have done this in the past in one day, so it's not real difficult,
But you WILL have to research the subject of 'Out Boarding' and make up your own mind.

Newer vehicles have Dana 35 rear differentials in the rear, and they aren't worth transferring.
You would be better off with something that was a little better designed and stronger.

Older Cherokees have strong axles, but don't have fuel efficient drive trains.

The ability to climb 'Steep Hills' usually has as much to do with wheel base (how much distance between axles) than anything.
Short wheel base vehicles have a tendency NOT to get good traction for steep climbs...
The tires are too close together, and if one gets into something 'Slippery', all the tires are into it.

Longer, wider wheel bases/track width do better because they don't tip as easily, flip as easily, and get traction in different locations so you don't loose traction as easily.

Keep your vehicle as low to the ground over the axles as possible.
Your axles determine your ground clearance, so large tires will help,
But a bunch of weight flopping around on tall springs over the axles doesn't help you one bit,
And the higher up you put the vehicle body on springs,
The higher your center of gravity, and there WILL BE a direct reduction in what you vehicle will do the higher up you put it over the axles...

Personally, I'd look for a reasonable fuel injected engine, light weight, durable,
Probably a fuel injected V-6 for under the hood.

Since you don't go up really steep hills fast, huge amounts of horse power aren't needed,
And factory fuel injection will keep you satisfied when you are climbing.

I would look for a transmission and transfer with as much gear reduction as you can wring out of them...
Crawl reduction will get you up hills and over obstacles without having mega-horsepower which is VERY expensive.

I would look into axles that have good strength combined with good ground clearance...
Straight hill climbing won't take porthole axles to do,
So be on the look out for a D-44 or Ford 9" in the rear,
And a D-44 for the front.
(Rock climbing is another matter! Start looking for Dana 60 or Corporate 14 bolt axles!)

A factory Dana 300 with 4:1 kit would be pretty good behind a transmission with a deep 1st gear,
But you would probably be better off with a good used Atlas II transfer case, depending on how steep we are talking here...
And by the time you have the Dana 300 rebuilt with a 4:1 kit, you can buy an Atlas II used...

Now, if you are talking just having fun in the Jeep,
Slap that FSJ drive train in there and go wheeling!

I've started with FSJ drive trains many times...
As the body got knocked off, we replaced with mostly tube frame, and they work GREAT for just plain wheeling around looking for places to get stuck!

I've also yanked the drive trains out of FSJs and plugged them into CJs,
It's fine to do that, but a LOT of work to get things 'Just Right',
And it's no more fun that pulling the body off an FSJ, welding up some ugly as sin tubing frame around the driver, and pounding the crap out of it!
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Unread 03-22-2010, 10:25 AM   #10
CSP
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Location: Colorado
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Pretty sure he's talking about an XJ Cherokee, not an SJ Cherokee.
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Unread 03-22-2010, 10:42 AM   #11
JeffKDX220
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1997 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Maine
Posts: 33
thanks for giving me ur opinions.... i got alot to think about
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Unread 03-22-2010, 10:48 AM   #12
JeffKDX220
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1997 XJ Cherokee 
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Maine
Posts: 33
So what exactly is "Out Boarding"?
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Unread 03-22-2010, 11:31 AM   #13
JeepHammer
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1973 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: South West Indiana
Posts: 9,950
With your current Jeep, the springs are mounted directly under the frame.

When you 'Out Board' you move the frame side of the spring mounts outside or 'Out Board' of the frame.
Usually reinforced angle iron.
This lets you install a full width axle under your Jeep since the Dana 44 axles have the axle mounting perch cast into the differential center section, and it's wider than CJ frames.

Not hard to do, several people have done it, including me,
And it keeps you from having to cut down the axle tubes and have custom length axle shafts... Which is a pain to do and expensive.

If you break something, you can grab any stock length axle and fix it without having to order custom stuff again.

Easier to move the spring mounts on the frame than cut up the housing/tubes and have custom axles made.

Here is an image I swiped off the net of a front spring mount 'Out Boarded' so they could run a larger differential.

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