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Unread 05-04-2013, 09:35 AM   #31
Ivehad4
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1978 CJ7 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
I'd say your choke pull-off isn't working.

As the engine warms, the pull-off is what gradually allows the high idle cam to "step" down to the next lower idle speed each time you touch the throttle. If blipping the throttle, while the engine is still warming up, takes the cam straight to "curb idle", instead of the next step on the high idle cam, then the pull-off isn't working, or the high idle screw isn't set properly.

Here's an excellent explanation by the Hammer.

Matt
Depending on the time interval. If the choke has opened completely then the choke linkage and the fast idle cam will rotate completely to curb idle.

Shadow: Your choke may need some tinkering but I don't believe its the source of your extreme hard starting. If the choke is mal-adjusted it will fire and run roughly at idle but it will fire off. I still think you have a fuel delivery issue. I'd bypass that FPR just for kicks.

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Unread 05-04-2013, 04:09 PM   #32
86cj74.2L
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Watch my video. It's how its suppose to work.


It shows the choke pull off in operation, and what the proper air gap should be.

It shows how a properly set choke will slowly open the plate and how the fast idle cam operates.

Before pointing fingers at what could be the problem the choke needs to be working properly. After its operating as it should then move on to the next problem.
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Unread 05-04-2013, 05:13 PM   #33
scrapman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
I'd say your choke pull-off isn't working.

As the engine warms, the pull-off is what gradually allows the high idle cam to "step" down to the next lower idle speed each time you touch the throttle. If blipping the throttle, while the engine is still warming up, takes the cam straight to "curb idle", instead of the next step on the high idle cam, then the pull-off isn't working, or the high idle screw isn't set properly.

Here's an excellent explanation by the Hammer.

Matt
Actually, It sounds like it just may need adjusting. The choke pull off is supposed to open the choke plate a specified amount(about a quarter inch) to let a little air in once the engine starts so that it can run. If it is not working, it will not run. The engine will stay choked off.

The choke pull off works off of engine vacuum, so it can only work when the engine is running. What the OP is saying is that the choke stays closed until it starts running, and then opens wide with the first press of the pedal. It sounds to me more like the choke pull off is working too good, (opening the plate too far) and just needs adjusted.

BTW: all of this is listed step-by-step how to adjust in the Manual you can find somewhere on this site. Do a search for Factory Service Manual and download it. Valuable information.
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Unread 05-04-2013, 05:31 PM   #34
shadoow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrapman View Post

BTW: all of this is listed step-by-step how to adjust in the Manual you can find somewhere on this site. Do a search for Factory Service Manual and download it. Valuable information.
yea, the choke definitely needs adjustment but the carb is a Weber knockoff (Solex) and i don't have a manual for it and haven't been able to locate one so i haven't messed with the choke too much. Besides, i don't really believe it's part of the hard start problem as it's hard to start after sitting whether the choke is working or not.
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Unread 05-04-2013, 05:43 PM   #35
Matt1981CJ7
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My engine will crank at least 3 times longer on a cold start, if I don't set the chock, or if the choke is not working. If it does fire, it runs like crap on the overly lean mixture, until it warms up.

You can ignore it, if you want, but a properly working choke is ESSENTIAL for quick and efficient cold starts.

Good luck,

Matt
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Unread 05-05-2013, 06:16 AM   #36
shadoow
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Matt,

i hear what you're saying but am not sure the choke matters all that much on my jeep for hard starting. When i first got the jeep the choke wasn't working cause there wasn't any screw for the fast idle cam to engage. I put one in to get the choke functioning and don't really remember there being that much of a difference on how long it would crank before starting. I won't be able to mess with it for awhile but when i can i'll do some experimenting to see if anything makes a difference based on what you guys have posted. I do appreciate your help.
Meanwhile if anyone has a link or info on setting up the choke on a Solex (weber) carb please let me know.
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Unread 05-05-2013, 11:32 AM   #37
John Strenk
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Well to verify if the absence of gas is the problem. Try pumping the throttle linkage next time it's sitting a while. If no gas is squirting out the you do have a draining problem.

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Unread 05-05-2013, 02:50 PM   #38
shadoow
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I'll try this when I mess with it again. When starting I normally pump the pedal a couple/3 times and when I first crank it over it try's to start a little but after that I have to go thru the cranking marathon before it starts. I'll take a look down into the carb and pump it to see what happens.
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Unread 05-05-2013, 02:59 PM   #39
Caish
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Normally the fuel pump prevents this.
Easy check, pull the line off the suction side of the pump, add your vacuum gauge to it.
Crank it over and watch the vacuum build, then shut it off and see if it holds the vacuum.
If it does, your issue could be a pin hole in the plastic line someplace.
If it does not its normally a faulty pump, but I read where others replaced the pump and did not cure it.
Another option would be a one way valve in the suction side of the pump make sure you add an inline filter down there too before the valve so it stays clean.
This there is this.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/fu...l-line-844925/
Quote:
The most common reason is an upside down or incorrect fuel filter. The proper fuel filter has two outlets, the center one to the carb and the top one to the return line. If the return line isn't up top gas can siphon back to the tank when it sits. if the return line is missing, then it can vapor lock on a hot shutdown which blows the gas lines clear, which is why they use a return line.

Another reason can be a pinhole leak in the suction line between the pump and tank. This will just leave a stain on the line, but is enough to let air in when it sits, check the hoses at the ends of the steel line, the new mix they call gas will destroy the stock Jeep 'rubber' gas lines, they need an upgrade.

Then the drainback valve in the pump can also fail, though that is more uncommon. To check that, unhook the gas line on the suction side and see how much comes out, only a little dribble should, if the pump empties out, well....
My fuel filter is on the section side of the pump just before the pump...
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Unread 05-05-2013, 04:05 PM   #40
86cj74.2L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadoow
I'll try this when I mess with it again. When starting I normally pump the pedal a couple/3 times and when I first crank it over it try's to start a little but after that I have to go thru the cranking marathon before it starts. I'll take a look down into the carb and pump it to see what happens.
If you have a good acc pump shot for the entire travel of the throttle from idle to Wide Open Throttle try one more to see if you get a solid streem the second time.

If so try only one or possibly 2 pumps of the gas before trying to start it.
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