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Unread 05-01-2013, 02:32 PM   #16
BlueRhino
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Had someone recommend just placing a small in-line fuel pump with a on-off switch in the cab. Turn the pump on for a few seconds before start, and you're good to go. Mine was pretty bad though. I'd have to pump mine for a minute or more before starting. I think I had a slow leak up at the carb that was allowing the fuel to drain back to the tank.

I'm re-doing all of the fuel lines now though. Guessing it will be much different, and hopefully better when I'm done.

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Unread 05-01-2013, 02:59 PM   #17
jeepwhore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
I'm not a fan of your FPR placement, or the rubber fuel lines draped over your valve cover. The FPR isn't necessary, anyway.

That said, I don't how see gas could be draining from that setup, either.

Next time it sits, check the bowl and the filter for fuel, before you start it. That's all I got, right now.

Matt
Not sure if a weber is constructed similarly but on the MC2100 if the power valve is blown/torn fuel can drain out that way.
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Unread 05-01-2013, 06:40 PM   #18
Ivehad4
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The fuel pump has a check valve in it. Possible it could be bad and loosing prime.
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Unread 05-01-2013, 08:03 PM   #19
86cj74.2L
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You guys can not tell me you've never put gas in a tuna fish can and noticed how fast it evaporates.

I agree that too many have gotten spoiled with fuel injection and forgot or plain old just don't know what it was like to have to pump the throttle to set the choke.

Put it on a hot engine...........

There is nothing on a carb to prevent the gas from evaporating. There are things to slow it down, but that's it. It's not a sealed up fuel rail and injectors.

The tank vents its fuel vapor through the evap canister. The charcoal absorbs the vapor like a filter. If your tank has pressure or vacuum when you pop the gas cap you got something wrong in my opinion.

When Grammys CJ sits. I turn it over until I see oil pressure on the mechanical oil pressure gauge. Then pump throttle twice and it fires up instantly and purrs.

Just my observation
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Unread 05-02-2013, 07:56 AM   #20
shadoow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
I'm not a fan of your FPR placement, or the rubber fuel lines draped over your valve cover. The FPR isn't necessary, anyway.

Matt
yea, that whole setup was there when i bought the jeep. Didn't want to kick a sleeping dog cause the jeep runs fine (except for no choke action which is another story...)
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Unread 05-02-2013, 12:21 PM   #21
John Strenk
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Your choke doesn't work?

How hot is it in Texas right now...


Also Weber can't drain out the fuel return or pump line. The float valve it at the top of the bowl unlike the BBD or the MC2100 were the needle valve is at the bottom of the fuel bowl. If the gas is gone it's either evaporating or leaking through the bottom of the carb...
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Unread 05-02-2013, 01:15 PM   #22
scrapman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Strenk View Post
Your choke doesn't work?

How hot is it in Texas right now...


Also Weber can't drain out the fuel return or pump line. The float valve it at the top of the bowl unlike the BBD or the MC2100 were the needle valve is at the bottom of the fuel bowl. If the gas is gone it's either evaporating or leaking through the bottom of the carb...
Great info on the Weber. It was 83 yesterday, and the low tonight is in the 30's. Gotta love Texas weather!
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Unread 05-02-2013, 01:20 PM   #23
Matt1981CJ7
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I think what John is getting at is, the inoperative choke is probably largely responsible for your hard starting issues.

Matt
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Unread 05-02-2013, 01:34 PM   #24
scrapman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
I think what John is getting at is, the inoperative choke is probably largely responsible for your hard starting issues.

Matt
Could be, but Granbury is about the same as Tyler, TX weather wise, and I don't think my choke has fully closed in about two months. It will tonight though.

Very easy to check if the inoperative choke is the culprit. Manually choke it as someone else is cranking it, and see if it makes a difference in the amount of time it takes to run.

BTW Matt, I am surprised you haven't mentioned his open air element, I know you think they are inferior.
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Unread 05-02-2013, 02:34 PM   #25
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrapman View Post
BTW Matt, I am surprised you haven't mentioned his open air element, I know you think they are inferior.
Actually, I know they are inferior for my purposes, but I don't think that's relevant to the topic.

What is relevant is a fact we just learned about... that the OP's choke doesn't work. A 30 degree night is more than cold enough to necessitate the choke in the morning. Heck, you really should use the choke any time the engine cools below normal operating temps.

Matt
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Unread 05-02-2013, 04:22 PM   #26
shadoow
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OK, more info on the choke issue. When it's 'cold' the choke linkage will allow the cam with 'steps' on it to rotate and be held in position (closes the butterfly) once i depress the accelerator. This action seems to be controlled by the choke element attached to the side of the carb (round element with a power wire connected to it). If i can start the jeep without pushing on the gas pedal it will start and run at elevated rpm, however once it's running if i push on the gas pedal the cam with 'steps' is allowed to rotate back to its original position effectively removing any choking action.
It's now 44 deg F outside (and going down) and the jeep has been sitting for 3 days. The choke is closed and I tried starting it...no go. It cranks & cranks & cranks and it will eventually start as it always does once gas gets pumped back into the carb. So somehow my choke linkage isn't working properly but it doesn't appear to have anything to do with the gas draining issue near as i can tell.
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Unread 05-02-2013, 06:40 PM   #27
Ivehad4
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Sounds like your choke is working correctly. The cam with steps is referred to as the fast idle cam. As the choke opens, the linkage allows it to rotate further down away from the fast idle adjustment screw and closer to normal idle.

Have you tried bypassing the FPR to see if its the problem?
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Unread 05-02-2013, 06:42 PM   #28
86cj74.2L
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Watch this


After the engine is started the choke will start opening. As it opens the cam will start to drop when you open the throttle. It shouldn't drop until you touch the gas.

As I said before, when Grammys jeep sits a few days I turn over engine until I see oil pressure. Then pump gas two times and it lights off and sets into a nice high idle and purrs like a kitten. After its running a little I kick it down to a more normal idle.
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Unread 05-04-2013, 08:31 AM   #29
shadoow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivehad4 View Post
Sounds like your choke is working correctly. The cam with steps is referred to as the fast idle cam. As the choke opens, the linkage allows it to rotate further down away from the fast idle adjustment screw and closer to normal idle.

Have you tried bypassing the FPR to see if its the problem?
agree that it seems to initially work like it's supposed to but instead of the choke plate gradually opening it fully opens once i press on the gas pedal.
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Unread 05-04-2013, 08:51 AM   #30
Matt1981CJ7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadoow View Post
agree that it seems to initially work like it's supposed to but instead of the choke plate gradually opening it fully opens once i press on the gas pedal.
I'd say your choke pull-off isn't working.

As the engine warms, the pull-off is what gradually allows the high idle cam to "step" down to the next lower idle speed each time you touch the throttle. If blipping the throttle, while the engine is still warming up, takes the cam straight to "curb idle", instead of the next step on the high idle cam, then the pull-off isn't working, or the high idle screw isn't set properly.

Here's an excellent explanation by the Hammer.

Matt
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