Right now my cj7 has to crank for a considerable period of time before it will turn over. after it has been running and shut down it will start right up the second time no problem. this all started out with a broken ignition switch. in troubleshooting the ign switch problem i installed a new starter solenoid, hooked the coil and the switch leads backwards and made all kinds of trouble for myself in my haste, including arcing a hole with my wrench on the fuel pump and smoking the battery. i have checked the fuel situation by ensuring the fuel bowl was full manually, no fix. i noticed now that the coil wire on the solenoid is only reading 10 vdc. could that be my problem? something else? sorry if i'm rambling and thanks for any help.
09-12-2012 01:26 AM
Could be a number of things. Your profile does not mention any ignition or fuel mods so I assume you have a computer controlled Duraspark and BBD carb?
First off test the ignition. Do not bother with a voltmeter, get a 12V test bulb and two long leads. Connect one end to batt -ve and the other end to the red with tracer wire that goes to the coil +ve. In Run it should light up and be dim, and in Start it should be bright. I suspect you have an issue there.
Next look at the Duraspark module. There is a 2 pin plug. Unplug it an dlook for the white wire. In Start only the test bulb will be bright if connected here. It is a signal to the module that you are in Start and it will retard ignition about 11 degrees.
Lastly it may be your choke adjustment. Root aroud on here for Jeephammer's choke set up posts and follow them. When correctly set the carb should start you right up.
09-12-2012 02:07 AM
Ensure your fuel filter is is level with the return line in the 12 o' clock position. If not it will cause fuel to leak out of the bowl. Also if it is a mech. fuel pump there is a check valve in those that like to go bad.
09-12-2012 03:52 AM
PS the coil wire on the solenoid, the I tab, should show battery voltage in Start as it is fed from the solenoid and in Run should just show the voltage at the coil. In Run it is fed from the ignition switch via the ignition and ballast resistor, about 6.5-7V if all connected properly.
09-12-2012 07:26 AM
Does your carb have electric choke?
If so you need to see if its working at the cold start up.
09-12-2012 10:26 AM
i have a weber carb electric choke and as far as i can tell everything else is stock. the choke plates close and open as advertised. also, to rectify my start switch problem, i jumped the wires out of the column switch to a toggle switch and use the accesory circuit power to energize the start circuit. from the blue wire back it should be factory but i start with the key in the run position.
08-20-2013 08:50 PM
for the sake of the forum, i finally found the starter was drawing more than twice the amperage that it should,(500+ amps). r&r starter, all works great. i also installed a painless duraspark 2 wire harness to fix the no start problem. i had a plethora of problems related to the ignition system. it feels good to be back off road again after almost a year of wrestling this stuff. thanks everyone!