Hard door Windows have finally given up. - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 02-09-2016, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
Mp5ben
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Hard door Windows have finally given up.

Hello guys, my 87 CJ's hard doors have been in pretty good condition till this winter when the window handle was getting harder to wind. I have to roll my window down everyday to get into work and I guess that's taken a toll with the cold drying up the grease?
Anyway I went to roll down the windows yesterday and the handle started slipping after me cranking it hard. Now I can barely get the window up and down. With barely any force the handle slips and the window doesn't move. I took off the panel and sprayed some wd40 on the window glass track the regulator arm rides in and that didn't help. The problem seems to be in the center of the regulator.

Is my problem going to require a new regulator assembly or just a replacement part for it? I have one pic looking into the door. Planning on tearing into it using jscherbs overhaul thread. the regulator arm looks to have a very large twist in it. Not sure if this is normal or not. Anybody with tips please give me a hand. Or a photo of the regulator out of the door.




01 WJ, 4" lift, Front Adj lower and upper,4.0, D30,D44a
86 CJ7 Laredo, 258, T5 D30 AMC20, 2.5" lift
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post #2 of 13 Old 02-09-2016, 07:47 AM
wm69
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Sounds like something stripped out. Are both doors doing it or only the drivers? Looks like you could look at the passenger side to see if something is visibly bent/different on the driver's door. My guess is the twist isn't supposed to be there and if you have to take it all the way apart it would be best to replace the whole regulator.

85 CJ7 258, borla header, Team Rush, MC2100 ,optima batt, Warn 8274, agr super box 2 & pump, T5 w/ B&M shifter, centerforce 2, superior 1 piece axles, warn hubs 2.5 in lift, 31" BFG MT

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post #3 of 13 Old 02-09-2016, 07:55 AM
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There is a bend in the arm, but yours looks twisted. My guess is the teeth in the regulator are fine as they are large. The glass probably bound up in the tracks and the leverage of the regulator twisted the arm till it bound and the teeth in the handle stripped. Either way it all needs to come apart. If you can get the new seals in the tracks to be very smooth, you can get away with just bending the arm back in shape. If not, once bent, it will bend easier the next time.

Ed
1975 CJ-6 1983 CJ-8
1986 CJ-7 Laredo 1986 TJ-7 Trail Jeep
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post #4 of 13 Old 02-09-2016, 08:47 AM
wolffman73
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As above, your teeth on the handle are likely stripped. I would tear the entire door down and replace everything. Seals get hard and cause too much friction. The aftermarket door seals are surprisingly pretty good quality. If you need some tips on doing this, let me know. I'm a self proclaimed hard door expert haha.

Wolffman
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post #5 of 13 Old 02-09-2016, 08:59 AM
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post #6 of 13 Old 02-09-2016, 09:08 AM
60Bubba
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I also used jscherb's guide for the rebuild. Two additional observations:

1. It may be just my Jeep, but the metal track that holds the forward section of rubber window track is pinched where it fits into the hard door up at the top. It looks like the bend in the chromed metal is from the factory, so I bet they all have it. When I got my new gaskets in, the window was super smooth up to the last half inch or so. The pinch in the metal track was squeezing the gasket and make the opening too narrow for the window to roll up the last 1/2-3/4". I had to trim the rubber at the top little by little until the resistance was gone.

2. I used some silicone RV slide out lubricant on the gaskets. It sprays on like shaving cream, but is a dry lube once you wipe it down. Seems to attract much less dirt than other lubricants. It helps the glass slide and doesn't seem to be affected by cold.



Rust-free 1983 CJ-7. 4.0L, T-5, OME YJ springs, frame-off resto in 2014. Rhino Liner on all non-painted surfaces and 2012 Jeep Cosmos Blue paint.
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post #7 of 13 Old 02-09-2016, 09:27 AM
wolffman73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60Bubba View Post
I also used jscherb's guide for the rebuild. Two additional observations:

1. It may be just my Jeep, but the metal track that holds the forward section of rubber window track is pinched where it fits into the hard door up at the top. It looks like the bend in the chromed metal is from the factory, so I bet they all have it. When I got my new gaskets in, the window was super smooth up to the last half inch or so. The pinch in the metal track was squeezing the gasket and make the opening too narrow for the window to roll up the last 1/2-3/4". I had to trim the rubber at the top little by little until the resistance was gone.

2. I used some silicone RV slide out lubricant on the gaskets. It sprays on like shaving cream, but is a dry lube once you wipe it down. Seems to attract much less dirt than other lubricants. It helps the glass slide and doesn't seem to be affected by cold.
This is true. They are pinched at the top and bottom. I think this is there so that the window stays up or down good and tight.
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post #8 of 13 Old 02-09-2016, 11:09 AM
Renegade82
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And a third observation
Quote:
my 87 CJ's hard doors have been...
The Jeep was discontinued in 86.

The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (the 4 year saga....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
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post #9 of 13 Old 02-09-2016, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
Mp5ben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
And a third observation
The Jeep was discontinued in 86.
Oops, was thinking 86 and CJ7 and mixed them up. I've check all other points of friction/resistance and found nothing odd or bent or tight. The window started to get hard to crank one cold morning and that was all she wrote. I believe I'll take apart the door and try to bend back the arm and see where that gets me. New regulators are $80-$120ish, which really surprised me for a vehicle so old.

01 WJ, 4" lift, Front Adj lower and upper,4.0, D30,D44a
86 CJ7 Laredo, 258, T5 D30 AMC20, 2.5" lift
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post #10 of 13 Old 02-09-2016, 05:15 PM
60Bubba
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mp5ben View Post
New regulators are $80-$120ish, which really surprised me for a vehicle so old.
The less availability, the higher the price, unfortunately.



Rust-free 1983 CJ-7. 4.0L, T-5, OME YJ springs, frame-off resto in 2014. Rhino Liner on all non-painted surfaces and 2012 Jeep Cosmos Blue paint.
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post #11 of 13 Old 02-09-2016, 08:15 PM
Renegade82
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You may find the issue once you take it apart and may not need to buy another. Could just be an alignment issue.

The end of a defining era.... JEEP R.I.P. 1941-1986
My frame off Re-Build: (the 4 year saga....)
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/30...e-off-1280850/
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post #12 of 13 Old 02-09-2016, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
Mp5ben
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I figured the same type regulator would be used in many older vehicles, some what standardized. Guess not!

And yes hopefull by tearing it down I'll find out it's an easy fix...but then I'll probably find something else that needs fixing always something else with these Jeeps. At least my tax return is on its way, I think the CJ could sense it...

01 WJ, 4" lift, Front Adj lower and upper,4.0, D30,D44a
86 CJ7 Laredo, 258, T5 D30 AMC20, 2.5" lift
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post #13 of 13 Old 02-11-2016, 09:45 PM
only in a jeep cj
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IF you go with a new or good used regulator, watch out as they are not all the same. Somewhere in the later YJs, they went to a plastic window crank with a different spline count and size.

Ed
1975 CJ-6 1983 CJ-8
1986 CJ-7 Laredo 1986 TJ-7 Trail Jeep
2003 Inca Gold TJ Rubicon
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