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Unread 11-21-2009, 04:30 PM   #1
jatepper
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Join Date: Mar 2007
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Guest Battery Selector Switch and dual batteries

My buddy gave me the below pictured battery selector switch, which is made by Guest. It is actually a marine battery isolator, but wondering if it will still work.

Model 2110A
230 amps continuous
345 amps momentary

Will this work in lieu of a charge isolator?

Thoughts?

battery-isolator.jpg  
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1985 Jeep CJ-7
Automatic-258 I6- Detroit lockers front/rear - Superior 1-piece axles, Ramsey Pro 9000 Winch, Quick Disconnects, 33 BFG AT's, 4.10 gears, Howell TBI, DUI HEI Ignition, Ground Pounder Rear Bumper / Tire Carrier Combo, Handen Fab integrated winch plate front bumper w/hoop, ORF weld-in front sport cage.

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Unread 11-21-2009, 05:20 PM   #2
jumbojeepman
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It'll work, but you shouldn't turn it while the engine is on.
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Unread 11-21-2009, 06:51 PM   #3
jatepper
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How is the amperage and everything? Is this the same as a charge isolater? According to the mfg, this switch has an alternator field disconect, which I think means you can turn it with the engine on, but I'm not positive.

Any other thoughts? Should I go with a different set up? How does this switch work?
__________________
1985 Jeep CJ-7
Automatic-258 I6- Detroit lockers front/rear - Superior 1-piece axles, Ramsey Pro 9000 Winch, Quick Disconnects, 33 BFG AT's, 4.10 gears, Howell TBI, DUI HEI Ignition, Ground Pounder Rear Bumper / Tire Carrier Combo, Handen Fab integrated winch plate front bumper w/hoop, ORF weld-in front sport cage.

USMC 1999-2004 Semper Fi!

Hood Hi-Lift Jack Mounts for CJ/YJ/TJ/JK

Torchmate CNC Plasma Table Build / Projects

The Target Man, LLC - AR500 Shooting Targets
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Unread 11-22-2009, 06:19 AM   #4
JeepHammer
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The amperage is a inadequate if you are going to try and power up a winch through it,
But for the engine starter motor, you should be OK.

Remember, this is a MANUAL switch, and does nothing for you if you don't manually turn the knob every time you turn the engine on or off...
And that will get old VERY QUICKLY.

Just before you start the vehicle, you will turn the selector to BOTH batteries to start and charge correctly,

Then you will have to turn the knob to ONE battery or the other when you turn the engine off, or it will not protect one battery for self start.
Once the vehicle has started, or just before you start the vehicle, you will have to turn the knob again for both batteries to function/charge...

When you park the vehicle for the day, you will have to turn BOTH batteries 'Off' so the vehicle doesn't drain them at night or when you aren't using it.
---------------------------

It's MUCH, MUCH easier to invest in a couple of common starter relays ('Solenoids') and a smaller charging relay, and let the jeep do all that stuff automatically...
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Unread 11-22-2009, 07:24 AM   #5
jfwireless
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The best way to use this switch is to not put it in the all mode unless you need the extra current. In the typical marine application you alternate between the battery positions if you are using the switch for two redundant starting batteries, or add a battery charging isolator to charge both all the time but still keep them functionaly isolated with the switch. Many outboards have dual battery charging harnesses for this now. Also intelligent charging relays are used. if one battery has a shorted cell, you will never be able to charge up the other if in the all mode, so keeping them isolated is a better approach. Also if you stop the engine the good battery will discharge into the bad battery until you move the switch, just a pain to always remember.

In larger boats typically one battery is the house battery, the second is the starting battery. This way you never discharge your starting battery when moored for a long time or using the house battery for extended times.

Jim
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Unread 11-22-2009, 06:55 PM   #6
jatepper
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Sounds like not the application I want to use. What do you guys recommend for my dual battery set up? The only high-current item I run is my winch, and that gets used very seldomly (thank goodness). Is there a specific brand isolator you recommend?
__________________
1985 Jeep CJ-7
Automatic-258 I6- Detroit lockers front/rear - Superior 1-piece axles, Ramsey Pro 9000 Winch, Quick Disconnects, 33 BFG AT's, 4.10 gears, Howell TBI, DUI HEI Ignition, Ground Pounder Rear Bumper / Tire Carrier Combo, Handen Fab integrated winch plate front bumper w/hoop, ORF weld-in front sport cage.

USMC 1999-2004 Semper Fi!

Hood Hi-Lift Jack Mounts for CJ/YJ/TJ/JK

Torchmate CNC Plasma Table Build / Projects

The Target Man, LLC - AR500 Shooting Targets
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Unread 11-22-2009, 06:56 PM   #7
jatepper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepHammer View Post

It's MUCH, MUCH easier to invest in a couple of common starter relays ('Solenoids') and a smaller charging relay, and let the jeep do all that stuff automatically...
Hammer,

What type of solenoids do you recommend? Should I just buy an extra of the OEM one I already have?
__________________
1985 Jeep CJ-7
Automatic-258 I6- Detroit lockers front/rear - Superior 1-piece axles, Ramsey Pro 9000 Winch, Quick Disconnects, 33 BFG AT's, 4.10 gears, Howell TBI, DUI HEI Ignition, Ground Pounder Rear Bumper / Tire Carrier Combo, Handen Fab integrated winch plate front bumper w/hoop, ORF weld-in front sport cage.

USMC 1999-2004 Semper Fi!

Hood Hi-Lift Jack Mounts for CJ/YJ/TJ/JK

Torchmate CNC Plasma Table Build / Projects

The Target Man, LLC - AR500 Shooting Targets
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Unread 11-23-2009, 07:51 AM   #8
JeepHammer
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What I use is just plain old starter relays that mount on the fender.
Run each battery into a starter relay, then combine them to go to the starter.

When you hit the key, BOTH starter relays activate and deliver power to the starter,
(FULLY twice as much cranking amps to the starter)

So if one battery is dead, or one starter relay quits, you have AUTOMATIC, REDUNDANT starting (no switch flipping),
And unless you keep track of how fast the engine turns, you probably won't know one of the batteries/starter relays has quit until you do maintinance checks.



This give you TWICE the cranking power to the starter, without running one battery through the other to get things cranking.

Notice both starter relays are GANGED so a single key switch operates both...

-----------------------------------------------

Then you have to get CHARGE to the second battery...
Since the batteries are only connected when the 'Crank' circuit of the ignition switch is activated, you need to isolate and charge that second battery.

That's where the oil pressure switch comes in.
You simply wire the second battery to an oil pressure switch,
(or if you have high output alternator, oil pressure switch and 70 amp relay).



As soon as the engine starts, and oil pressure comes up, BOTH batteries are connected and they charge together.
All automatic, and the second disconnects when the engine isn't running so you don't run BOTH down when you leave air compressor on, lights on, or some kid plays with keys and leaves the key switch 'On'...

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Now, you can go one step farther, and SELF RESCUE with one switch on the dash.
It's called a MOMENTARY switch, since when you let go, the circuit is OPEN again.

IF the PRIMARY battery gets drained,
The SECOND battery is fine since it was isolated...
BUT,
You can't get the vehicle running since there isn't enough power going to the ignition switch to activate the starter relays...

You need to tap the power from the SECOND battery to 'Hot Wire' the system long enough to get started up...



This 'Hot Wires' the connection relay between batteries and will allow you to start the vehicle with a dead primary battery.
Hold the switch while turning the key switch, and you SELF RESCUE,
As soon as the vehicle starts, the oil pressure switch will take over, and you don't have to hold the SELF RESCUE switch anymore...

And the dead battery will charge with a combination of alternator and amperage from the 'Good' battery that was isolated.

So this all boils down to two starter relay 'Solenoids', one of which you already have,
An oil pressure switch, which you already have if you have an electric choke,
A 70 Amp common automotive relay, which is about $20,
And some creative wiring...
-------------------------------------------

Since I didn't have an electric choke, I had to install an oil pressure switch.
I just routed things through the switch alone when I was running a factory stock 37 Amp alternator, and it wasn't an issue.



And it was easy enough to wire in a 'HOT' line to SELF RESCUE...



----------------------------------------------------------

Once I started using a 78 Amp alternator, that was a bit much for just the oil pressure switch contacts,
So I started using a 70 Amp Electrical Relay to transfer/connect the batteries for charging...

[img]http://www.junkyardgenius.com/charging/IMAGES/dualbatt05.gif[/url]

I never was really fond of having extra 'HOT' wiring running to the dash, (too much that can go wrong)
So when I bumped up the alternator, I put in a GROUND, or 'Cold' connection to SELF RESCUE...

----------------------------------------------------------------

Besides the extra battery, the entire thing cost me about $30...
70 Amp Relay, oil pressure switch, extra starter relay ('solenoid'), some wire and terminals...
Not much to it, just takes some wiring and time...
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Unread 11-23-2009, 09:30 AM   #9
jatepper
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Excellent. Thanks Hammer. Is there any place on the block to install another oil pressure switch? I'm at work right now and cannot look at the CJ at the moment. If not and I use my exsting switch, is it going to cause my oil pressure guage to be off? I want to go to napa on the way home to buy what I need and maybe start on it tonight. Thanks again!
__________________
1985 Jeep CJ-7
Automatic-258 I6- Detroit lockers front/rear - Superior 1-piece axles, Ramsey Pro 9000 Winch, Quick Disconnects, 33 BFG AT's, 4.10 gears, Howell TBI, DUI HEI Ignition, Ground Pounder Rear Bumper / Tire Carrier Combo, Handen Fab integrated winch plate front bumper w/hoop, ORF weld-in front sport cage.

USMC 1999-2004 Semper Fi!

Hood Hi-Lift Jack Mounts for CJ/YJ/TJ/JK

Torchmate CNC Plasma Table Build / Projects

The Target Man, LLC - AR500 Shooting Targets
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