Grinding in reverse - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 12 Old 07-02-2013, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
AlexThePhotoGuy
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Grinding in reverse

Just recently the t5 in my 85 cj7 has started grinding when shifting into reverse. Goes into all 5 other gears fine, it just doesn't like reverse.

I just changed the fluid to royal purple synchromax about a month ago.

Any idea for a fix? For now I'm just trying to put it gear slowly...

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post #2 of 12 Old 07-02-2013, 03:33 PM
LumpyGrits
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Bump 1st gear first. Then put it in "R".
It grinds because there's no syncro's for reverse.
LG
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post #3 of 12 Old 07-02-2013, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
AlexThePhotoGuy
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Ooh. Smart. I'll have to try that as soon as the thunderstorms clear. Thanks!
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post #4 of 12 Old 07-03-2013, 09:33 AM
FrnchDp
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I've had a T5 for as long as I can remember.. always go into 1st before sliding into R. Kills the grind.

1986 CJ-7 - I6-258

2000 WJ Limited - V8-287
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post #5 of 12 Old 07-03-2013, 09:36 AM
robs7
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My T176 does this occasionally. Will the first gear trick work for it as well? Rob
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post #6 of 12 Old 07-03-2013, 09:47 AM
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexThePhotoGuy View Post
Just recently the t5 in my 85 cj7 has started grinding when shifting into reverse. Goes into all 5 other gears fine, it just doesn't like reverse.

I just changed the fluid to royal purple synchromax about a month ago.

Any idea for a fix? For now I'm just trying to put it gear slowly...
Quote:
Originally Posted by LumpyGrits View Post
Bump 1st gear first. Then put it in "R".
It grinds because there's no syncro's for reverse.
LG
Quote:
Originally Posted by robs7 View Post
My T176 does this occasionally. Will the first gear trick work for it as well? Rob
Good for right now but it would be good to make sure your linkage hasn't worn out to the point that you ware not fully releasing your clutch.

after putting it into first, put it in neutral and wait about 10 seconds and slowly put it into reverse, if the clutch is dragging, then you will get some more grinding.

I've seen a lot of worn out linkages were you cannot fully release the clutch.

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post #7 of 12 Old 07-03-2013, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
AlexThePhotoGuy
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@John. Good advice. How hard is it to replace a linkage? Also... Where is the linkage located?
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post #8 of 12 Old 07-03-2013, 10:33 AM
John Strenk
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Not hard, From the pedal through the firewall to the bellcrank near the frame.

Hardest part will be getting pins off pedal.

Might have to replace bell crank if warn also.


http://www.quadratec.com/products/52...Fc9DMgodJSoAxQ

I upgraded mine to heim joints. No more wear.:

http://www.gnarly4x4.com/rugged-ridg...lutch-linkage/
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post #9 of 12 Old 07-03-2013, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
AlexThePhotoGuy
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Thanks! I'll check the 1st great trick and see what reverse does.
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post #10 of 12 Old 07-03-2013, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
AlexThePhotoGuy
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Ya know, now that I think of it, when I depress the clutch pedal, the first inch or two feels very free before it disengages the clutch (like the only resistance is a small spring). Is that another indication of a worn linkage?
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post #11 of 12 Old 07-03-2013, 12:34 PM
John Strenk
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Well it should have some free play and an inch is good

BUT

If there is a lot of slop in the linkage, You can't press it down far enough.

Lets say total travel of the pedal is 6". It's at the end of a 10" lever arm. So the hole for the linkage arm only travels 2" for 6" of pedal travel.
3 to 1 ratio in this example.

The 1" of free play is really 1/3 of an inch. out of the 2"

now if both the rod and bell cranks are warn, say it add's up to 1" of slop total. that's 3" on the pedal before anything starts to move. So were you previously had 5" of travel to move the clutch arm, you only have 2". That aint going to move the arm much.

here is an example of a worn bell crank:


You can see were it adds up....
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post #12 of 12 Old 07-03-2013, 12:38 PM
LumpyGrits
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If you have more than 1 1/4" free travel, you have to much.
Easy to adjust.
OEM linkage is JUNK, BTW.
Favtory Service Manual has this info.
LG
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