Grade 8 Bolt/Rust Question! - Page 2

CJman77 · 02-23-2009, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dvbum

Complete set of stainless for your Jeep

http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=9475

Damn I bet that is one nice bolt kit to have!

Fjguercio · 02-23-2009, 09:22 PM

SS bolts are the way to go. Grade 8 bolts, nut washer with the gold plating way to go. I purchased bags of the Grade 8 saved trips and fast and easy. I put permatex antiseize on everthing. The stuff that rusts got ss and I herd most of SS is grade 5 equal and that is plenty. SS on seats, skid plate, and the external bolts on engine get the antiseize. All the grill bolts, fender bolts, hood hardware, mounting equipment in engine bay and on the tub. Even spraying good PB on stuff you will not touch every few yrs can help a bunch.

Just curious, where did you see SS was grade 2???

Many after all together coat with Rust Convertors like POR15 and then top coat with Rustoleum or similar. This can protect the screw, metals, everthing.

CJman77 · 02-23-2009, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fjguercio

SS bolts are the way to go. Grade 8 bolts, nut washer with the gold plating way to go. I purchased bags of the Grade 8 saved trips and fast and easy. I put permatex antiseize on everthing. The stuff that rusts got ss and I herd most of SS is grade 5 equal and that is plenty. SS on seats, skid plate, and the external bolts on engine get the antiseize. All the grill bolts, fender bolts, hood hardware, mounting equipment in engine bay and on the tub. Even spraying good PB on stuff you will not touch every few yrs can help a bunch.

Just curious, where did you see SS was grade 2???

Many after all together coat with Rust Convertors like POR15 and then top coat with Rustoleum or similar. This can protect the screw, metals, everthing.

http://www.portlandbolt.com/Document...rade-Chart.pdf

That will show it. Its just above grade 2 actually. I am talking standard SS that is at a hardware store.

Also this is from the totally stainless website:

http://www.totallystainless.com/yoursafety.htm

"We offer a unique line of grade 8 and stronger stainless for high strength applications. Regular stainless steel fasteners are only slightly stronger than grade 2. Unless you have a death wish, DON'T BOLT YOUR BRAKE SYSTEM/SUSPENSION TOGETHER WITH REGULAR STRENGTH STAINLESS STEEL FASTENERS ! Regular strength stainless is great for a variety of automotive applications, but use some common sense. When in doubt, use high-strength stainless! Always follow the application guidelines of the original manufacturer and refer to the torque table in our catalog. And by the way, even if the vehicle is a show-only "trailer queen", someday someone will drive it on the street. Do it right the first time."

I never knew this totally stainless stuff existed. I always knew the like local ACE hardware place bolts were pretty weak. I have broken a few on my boat from time to time. This totally SS stuff is interesting. Its gotta work if 4wd is selling their stuff.

Fjguercio · 02-23-2009, 09:44 PM

I agree with the guy above, 316SS is grade 5. Your web site also says this. Fine for lots of stuff. There are different grades of SS, that is what you need to watch, 316SS or better is what you want.

The bolts that hold the horn, screws for the ignition modual, I used big box of ss hardware that might be 304but still ok.

Brakes, motor mounts, etc use the grade 8.

Lifesgoodhere · 02-23-2009, 10:16 PM

use grade 8 for stuff that puts a lot of load perpendicular to the bolt, like suspensions.

use grade 5 for stuff that you need to clamp, like skid plates.

I forgot teh difference between the 2 as to why you do this, but its what I go by.

SS is fine for decorative stuff, but I would NEVER use it for holding important stuff together. I might use it to hold door hinges on. You know what I mean?

CJman77 · 02-24-2009, 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fjguercio

I agree with the guy above, 316SS is grade 5. Your web site also says this. Fine for lots of stuff. There are different grades of SS, that is what you need to watch, 316SS or better is what you want.

The bolts that hold the horn, screws for the ignition modual, I used big box of ss hardware that might be 304but still ok.

Brakes, motor mounts, etc use the grade 8.

Yes I understand this and its basically what I have been saying! The stuff at your typical hardware store (at least the ones around me in FL where SS is king) are cheapo SS and most likely not the 316 good stuff.

gmakra · 02-24-2009, 07:39 AM

Stainless will often gall the threads when torqued down upon.

**RetiredSERE** · 02-24-2009, 07:51 AM

Well they are technicaly correct in that stainless doesn't "Rust", but like all metals it does "Corrode", which is just a different word for "Rust".

Other thing you have to watch for is "Dis-similar Matal Corrosion", basicly means that when two different types of metal com into contact with each other they will start to corrode. Make sure you use some type of Anti-Seize or even grease on the bolts.

Either way time will eventually turn it into powder, you just try to control when that will happen.

Dave

foggybottombob · 02-24-2009, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CJman77

The ones I bought today have the gold plating. So that is this CAD plating? And that shouldn't corrode too much?

CAD meaning some cadmium compound.

CJman77 · 02-24-2009, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RetiredSERE

Well they are technicaly correct in that stainless doesn't "Rust", but like all metals it does "Corrode", which is just a different word for "Rust".

Other thing you have to watch for is "Dis-similar Matal Corrosion", basicly means that when two different types of metal com into contact with each other they will start to corrode. Make sure you use some type of Anti-Seize or even grease on the bolts.

Either way time will eventually turn it into powder, you just try to control when that will happen.

Dave

Yeah I have to watch that disimilar metal thing on my boat. The two unlike metals will "weld" together. At least thats what they say on ship shape~! lol

crusty75 · 02-24-2009, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CJman77

The ones I bought today have the gold plating. So that is this CAD plating? And that shouldn't corrode too much?

You'll be fine with the Grade 8 Cad bolts. Just be sure to use never seize like I mentioned before. The problem with stainless specialty hardware is that you never really know what you are getting, at the consumer level. Even the USAF and major airlines have a major problem with counterfeit imported fasteners. There is a lot more money to be made counterfeiting a specialty bolt that costs $5 each/ vs. plain old cad plated grade 8 @ .80 cents each.

Cad is tried and true....

**JeepHammer** · 02-24-2009, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CJman77

Okay so I bought a bunch of Grade 8 Hardware for the Suspension, etc today. My ? is how do I stop this stuff from corroding away to nothing like all the crap I pulled off the Jeep? I know they are only zinc coated so what do you all do?

I want this thing to have bolts that remain in good shape and dont get stripped, broken, etc.

Thanks

B

NEVER-SEIZE

Old4X · 02-24-2009, 08:50 PM

For areas that need high strength bolts, but SS is not desired, you can put a corrosion resistant coating on the bolts.

It is a "spray and bake" system. It is used on military hardware and armament. Not only corrosion resistant, but anti-galling as well. The best I have found is Norrels moly resin. It is easy to work with.

http://www.johnnorrellarms.com/molyresin_about.asp

Bubba Ray · 02-25-2009, 07:08 PM

Use a good anti-seize and you will be fine.

duffer · 02-25-2009, 07:35 PM

McMaster-Carr carries 17-4 stainless bolts. These are 100,000 psi or about grade 5. They also carry "ultra corrosion resistant" grade 8 alloy steel (150,000 psi) along with a good selection of grade 9. (mcmaster.com) I have bought a lot of bolts and other hardware from these guys and they are top notch. Antisieze or locktite will both keep stainless from galling.