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Unread 08-27-2013, 02:19 PM   #31
JeepMonkey
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrapman View Post
Any holley 6.5 single stage power valve will work. A quick google of holley 6.5 power valve turned up several places to buy. Here is one:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hl...FfFj7AodlXYAww

The only way to tell which one you have is to take it off and see what numbers are stamped on it.
Thanks. I think I may just buy from the link you provided since I have been to 3 auto parts stores and none of them sell the Holley PV's. Guess Alabama isnt exactly the car mecca that I wish it was.

I will also need a replacement gasket. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Felpro makes one for the MC2150 but it is designed to attach to a Ford intake, not my adapter plate. Any thoughts?

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Unread 09-24-2013, 11:09 AM   #32
drespecki
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I have the 'new' 2150 from the Ebay guy... Running 47 jets and a 7.5 PV but am going to try a 6.5 PV soon... Has a flat spot or hesitation when you give it the go...
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Unread 09-24-2013, 11:59 AM   #33
capt205
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I had a slight flat spot...still after jets and PV. Tinkered with the accelerator pump linkage on the side of the carb. Went back and forth between the top 2 holes, and settled on the second from top.
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Unread 11-05-2013, 09:50 AM   #34
jbrosnan
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I also just purchased the new MC2150 from the ebay guy and I also seem to still be running rich. He has been very helpful and made suggestions like advancing my timing another 3 degrees, running my PCV to the carb and not teeing to the charcoal cannister, it helped some with power but still seems rich. Last night I sprayed carb cleaner around the base and it appeared to be leaking so I tightened the bolts more and it seemed to help but still leaking. Does the carb body leak some, such at the choke and accelerator pump? Should I RTV the base and gaskets as shown if needed in his directions? I had one other issue the ported vacuum on the passenger side port came out, I stuck it back in, it seems to hold. Should I send it back, leave as it is, or do some kind of repair? As far as the power valve, I am understanding from this post that the Holley PV works in the MC2150. Correct? Any help would be appreciated. It is running real good with more power than it had with the carter crap but I can hardly stay in my show with the door up while tunning on it, also getting alot of fumes in jeep while driving with hard top and doors on. Any suggestions will be deeply appreciated?
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Unread 11-05-2013, 12:18 PM   #35
roscopcoltrane
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"eBay guy" is like a fart in the wind. You must be taking up all of his time to answer questions because he completely ignored me after shipping my carb a couple weeks ago. I'm not at all pleased and am half inclined to mount an internet smear campaign against him. Lucky for him I don't have near that much motivation. His product is solid but the service he promises has been non-existent.
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Unread 11-05-2013, 01:44 PM   #36
Matt1981CJ7
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I question if the eBay guy's carbs are really "new"?

Are we to believe he bought 10,000 NOS Motorcraft carbs when they stopped manufacturing them? If so, where?

I suspect they are junk-yard carbs that he reconditions and rebuilds...one of the reasons I went with a Weber.

Matt
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Unread 11-05-2013, 01:51 PM   #37
steff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roscopcoltrane View Post
"eBay guy" is like a fart in the wind. You must be taking up all of his time to answer questions because he completely ignored me after shipping my carb a couple weeks ago. I'm not at all pleased and am half inclined to mount an internet smear campaign against him. Lucky for him I don't have near that much motivation. His product is solid but the service he promises has been non-existent.
+1
Same story
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Unread 11-05-2013, 02:09 PM   #38
roscopcoltrane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
I question if the eBay guy's carbs are really "new"?

Are we to believe he bought 10,000 NOS Motorcraft carbs when they stopped manufacturing them? If so, where?

I suspect they are junk-yard carbs that he reconditions and rebuilds...one of the reasons I went with a Weber.

Matt
Mine is definitely not NOS. He didn't try to sell it as such though.
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Unread 11-05-2013, 02:21 PM   #39
walkerhoundvm
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Nor mine, but I recall in a recent thread someone pointed out he did have one listing saying "NOS." I believe that about as much as I believe him capable of follow-up customer service.
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Unread 11-05-2013, 02:22 PM   #40
scrapman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
I question if the eBay guy's carbs are really "new"?

Are we to believe he bought 10,000 NOS Motorcraft carbs when they stopped manufacturing them? If so, where?

I suspect they are junk-yard carbs that he reconditions and rebuilds...one of the reasons I went with a Weber.

Matt
I didn't buy from him, but I have never thought he was selling "new" carbs.

The MC 2100 is probably one of the most simple carbs ever built. If you are running rich at idle, google "best lean idle" and follow the instructions.

If you are running rich while you are accelerating, your power valve may be too high, or you may need to jet down.

You can also adjust the accelerator pump shot by moving the accelerator pump rod to different holes in the linkage. Here is a good article that should help you set it up.

http://street2mud.com/webfiles/MC-21...%20a%20258.pdf

Page 15 starts with new information, 1-14 is a scan of an old file.
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Unread 11-05-2013, 02:32 PM   #41
Matt1981CJ7
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The ads I'm reading on ebay use the word "new" all over them.

Seems shady to me....

Matt
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Unread 11-05-2013, 02:35 PM   #42
jbrosnan
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He supposedly sells rebuilt and new. He claims he has the new bodies casted and he puts together is the way I understood it.
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Unread 11-05-2013, 02:53 PM   #43
Matt1981CJ7
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Hmmm...I'm not convinced.

Why would you buy from this guy when there are reputable carb companies who dyno-test every carb, have a good warranty, and excellent service and support?

Matt
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Unread 11-05-2013, 03:11 PM   #44
roscopcoltrane
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1981CJ7 View Post
Hmmm...I'm not convinced.

Why would you buy from this guy when there are reputable carb companies who dyno-test every carb, have a good warranty, and excellent service and support?

Matt
You are 100% right. I would not patronize this guy again and will steer people clear every opportunity I get.
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Unread 11-05-2013, 04:07 PM   #45
scrapman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roscopcoltrane View Post
You are 100% right. I would not patronize this guy again and will steer people clear every opportunity I get.
If you want an MC 2100, find a used one and rebuild it yourself. There were thousands upon thousands of these built which are at junkyards all over the place. (they were built from the 60's through the 80's) Buy one for 20 dollars, put another 20 dollars into a rebuild kit, and you have a great carb.

The one I got had a rebuild sticker on it from 6 months ago. The screws on the accelerator pump were too long, causing it to squirt fuel out at the accelerator pump. Probably why they sold it to me as scrap.

If you are afraid of rebuilding a carb, adjusting accelerator pumps, and tuning a carb, then by all means spend the extra money and get a carb that is already calibrated for your engine. If you are a little mechanically inclined, the Mc2100 is a great carb for the 4.2.

Matt, I agree if your going to spend that kind of money, buy from a carb company, but if you want a great, simple carb, for a little cash, re-build an mc2100.
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