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Unread 11-03-2009, 12:48 PM   #1
Dr. Marneaus
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Going to look at a CJ this week...

Wow, I cant believe I'm making this thread.

I'm going to go check out a 1970 CJ5 this week. I've looked at a few in the past, but I'm sill no expert.

This particular one has a 350 under the hood, which isnt running due to carb problems (can play with the choke and get it started, but wont stay running is what I'm told). The body is clean, no rust through it. Soft top and doors.

It needs a front drive shaft (broke, and was never replaced but the transfer case was repaired)

I have no idea what the transmission in it is (could be original) and i know it has a hyudralic clutch from a late 80's early 90's chevy.

From the pictures the body looks pretty darn straight.

So, what the heck do I look for on this thing? I can check for damage and whatnot, and I'm brining along a "350 guy" to check it out with me. But anything CJ specific I need to be looking for? How can I find out about the tranny?

Asking 1200 bucks for it.





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Unread 11-03-2009, 01:02 PM   #2
JoonHoss
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well, obviously, I'd be a bit concerned over possible damage inside the front diff, and if the t-case was repaired correctly. frame rust, and or rust in general. no PS is always enjoyable.

good factory info here

http://www.jeeptech.com/

the good news, however, is that you are looking at a relatively inexpensive asking/buy in price.

once you've spent about 8X the asking price, you should be well on your way to a decent project!

Hoss
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Unread 11-03-2009, 01:06 PM   #3
leavundst
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoonHoss View Post
.... once you've spent about 8X the asking price, you should be well on your way to a decent project!

Hoss
AMEN
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Unread 11-03-2009, 01:07 PM   #4
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In addition to obvious frame rust, check specifically in the floor pan area, body mounts and roll bar mounting plates. Do you know if the tub is original?
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Unread 11-03-2009, 01:16 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoonHoss View Post
well, obviously, I'd be a bit concerned over possible damage inside the front diff, and if the t-case was repaired correctly. frame rust, and or rust in general. no PS is always enjoyable.

good factory info here

Jeep Tech Pages

the good news, however, is that you are looking at a relatively inexpensive asking/buy in price.

once you've spent about 8X the asking price, you should be well on your way to a decent project!

Hoss
Yah, I asked about the front diff, but he said it doesnt make any noise and seems fine. The T-case was repaired by a pro, not him, I'll have to check it out obviously. But the break occurred at the joint between the tcase and the shaft.

There shouldnt be any rust on it, it's a southwest truck, but being from NH, that is one thing I actually know how to look for, haha. I'll make sure it isnt all rotted out anywhere on the frame or around the body mounts etc.

And to clarify, the plans for whatever CJ I get are not to go all out restoring it, etc. I want something I can tinker with, work on whenever i want, but also just be able to go for a trail ride or a cruise in. It aint gonna be a long term daily driver or anything, nor do i want a wild trail rig.
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Unread 11-03-2009, 01:17 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike1084 View Post
In addition to obvious frame rust, check specifically in the floor pan area, body mounts and roll bar mounting plates. Do you know if the tub is original?
I believe the tub is original.

My thoughts are if i got this thing for a grand, i could get rid of it for the same if it turns out to be really bad.

Picking up this jeep would begin a process that would let me sell my Magnum and be happy once again. Buy jeep, get it up and running, sell station wagon, drive jeep for a month or 2 while looking for an economy car, purchase economy car, have jeep and gas miser.

sounds good to me.
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Unread 11-03-2009, 01:26 PM   #7
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A 1970 will have a few less desirable components. Ross steering box being the most undesirable of them. It can be swapped for a Saginaw setup, but it's not as simple as you might think. Should have small drum brakes with an offset Dana 44 rear with 2-piece axles (could possibly be the flanged axle type though depending on build date). The offset rear will limit you pretty much to using the original Dana 18 t-case, which is fine, it's a good case, but you should be aware of this.

If the body is rust free and the top and doors are in good shape I think $1200 is reasonable, although I'd try to get it for a grand if I could. I wouldn't be overly concerned about carb issues on a 350 since there are so many choices for intakes and carbs on Chevy small blocks. I'd probably look for a stock Quadrajet if it was mine, since they do very well off road at angles. Stay away from Holleys and Edelbrocks unless you get the Holley truck avenger.
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Unread 11-03-2009, 03:11 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Pathkiller View Post
A 1970 will have a few less desirable components. Ross steering box being the most undesirable of them. It can be swapped for a Saginaw setup, but it's not as simple as you might think. Should have small drum brakes with an offset Dana 44 rear with 2-piece axles (could possibly be the flanged axle type though depending on build date). The offset rear will limit you pretty much to using the original Dana 18 t-case, which is fine, it's a good case, but you should be aware of this.
Are any of the aforementioned "less desirable" components going to be issues? As I mentioned, the "Build" of any CJ I purchase will be mild, small lift, and most definitely nothing over 33's, probably stick to 31's or 32's in the end. The small brakes I can see being a problem when stopping large tires and whatnot, but i don't plan on going very large. I'm really jsut looking for an old jeep to tool around in on and off the streets. I never should have sold my TJ, but I'm an idiot.

I'm not sure about the steeing setup. What makes this the weak point? or are you simply referring to the fact that it isnt power?

As for the D44 rear, everything in my TJ knowledge and from what I've read regarding CJ's tells me that the D44 is a good solid axle for any jeep, but you're saying the offset is the limiting factor here? Simple because it will result in almost no upgrade opportunity to the t-case.

As far as the motor goes, I'm not worried.
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Last edited by Dr. Marneaus; 11-03-2009 at 03:36 PM..
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Unread 11-03-2009, 03:50 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Dr. Marneaus View Post
...Are any of the aforementioned "less desirable" components going to be issues? I'm not sure about the steeing setup. What makes this the weak point? or are you simply referring to the fact that it isnt power?
.
good info/expalntion here:

Advanced Adapters Jeep CJ Power Steering Conversion Kit | Jp Magazine Article at Automotive.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Marneaus View Post
...As for the D44 rear, everything in my TJ knowledge and from what I've read regarding CJ's tells me that the D44 is a good solid axle for any jeep, but you're saying the offset is the limiting factor here?...
still is, just a different 44 (with 2 piece axles), and the offset limits changing... upgrades good info here:

http://www.jeeptech.com/axle/d44.html

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Originally Posted by Dr. Marneaus View Post
...I never should have sold my TJ, but I'm an idiot...
HEY NOW!

I could easily be the captain of that ship, as I've been working my way 'down' the Jeep chain for years, (and couldn't be happier)

my TJ



sold and bought my CJ



sold and bought my Commando (for $1200, ironically)



Hoss
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Last edited by JoonHoss; 11-03-2009 at 04:01 PM..
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Unread 11-03-2009, 03:59 PM   #10
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Any idea what it would take to get a drive shaft for the front of it?
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Unread 11-03-2009, 04:04 PM   #11
JoonHoss
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Originally Posted by Dr. Marneaus View Post
Any idea what it would take to get a drive shaft for the front of it?
a few bucks, and a tape measure and a phone...

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/app/...iagrams/g.html

Hoss
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Last edited by JoonHoss; 11-03-2009 at 04:17 PM.. Reason: i ar nod a guud spllar!
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Unread 11-03-2009, 04:13 PM   #12
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Try to get the price down to a grand, but shoot, even at 1200 its a good deal.
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Unread 11-03-2009, 04:29 PM   #13
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Hot damn, you guys are amazing compared to TJ people, haha.

Try getting an answer in TJ tech. I stopped giving my assistance in there because it is ridiculous sifting through the tube bumpers and tire size threads.

The sad thing is I dont have quite enough cash (unemployment dont pay too well..haha) to set this plan in motion. I'll be seeing financial assistance from family members most likely, as well as selling off a gun or 2. parents owe me some cash anyway. We'll see.

Gotta get out there and look at it before i make any plans, obviously.
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Unread 11-04-2009, 12:09 AM   #14
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any other tips? haha
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Unread 11-04-2009, 12:29 PM   #15
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The Ross steering is vague even when in good shape, but with 40 years of wear turns absolutely scary. With larger tires it would really suck.

The small drum brakes can be swapped pretty easily for 11" drums which work a whole lot better.

If you get it, set up an account at Early CJ5, which specializes in this model and you'll be pleasantly surprised with the helpfulness of that community. Early CJ5.com > Forums - Powered by vBulletin
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