Go teeeeaaammm rush!! - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 04-05-2010, 09:52 PM Thread Starter
BigOrange90YJ
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Location: Huntsville, TX
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Go teeeeaaammm rush!!

So I am about to go get everything I need for the Team Rush upgrade on my 258. I just wanted to make sure I am getting everything I need. Minus the ignition module and coil (i do have an accel super stock coil I installed pretty recently) because I can't afford the new ignition module or e-coil right now.

Item Number
----- Product Name
  1. ECH FA136 ----- Distributor Cap
  2. ECH FA139 ----- Distributor Cap Adapter
  3. ECH FA159 ----- Distributor Rotor
  4. BEL 700444 -----Spark Plug Wire Set - Premium

I recently changed my plugs and wires. Not sure what brand plugs are but I know wires are some cheap off brand wires.

If I get wires are the ones in the list above the best choice.

If I replace the plugs what plugs should I purchase. And what exactly does gap .045 mean? How do I do that?

When I do have the money for a new ignition module which should I purchase? I'm pretty sure I want to go MSD but which MSD ignition module works best in a Jeep?

I have seen when some people do the team rush they upgrade to different advance springs. Since I do have a 90 wrangler and the distributor was originally controlled by the ECU I would think new advance springs would benefit my performance. What advance springs should I get? I saw these in a particular thread.

Hope I get some good input here that will benefit others as well.


Currently Jeepless, if you get too frustrated with yours I'll take it off your hands.
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post #2 of 12 Old 04-06-2010, 04:38 AM
ctm
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not sure that wire set has the choice of coil wires in it that you need to go from the canister coil to the new style cap. I think the 700230 set has it though.
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post #3 of 12 Old 04-06-2010, 06:17 AM
BioTex
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I picked up an E-coil from a salvage yard for something around $5.

With that said, for the 258, the stock canister coil (round one), is just fine.
IMO you don't gain enough to justify the cost.

As far as ignition modules, go to the salvage yard and pick one up. Doesn't matter if it works or not. Purchase the GM module for around $24 new. Gut the insides out of the salvage module, keeping the connectors. Hook up the GM module to the wires, and keep it as a spare. Run the one currently in the Jeep until, if ever, it fails. Then just plug in the new one. Do a search on Stealth GM ignition module to get the wiring diagram and instructions on how to do it.

So money is really not the issue, and you will get the most out of your 258.

'85 CJ7, BDS 4" lift, 1" Body lift, 33x12.5, Shrockworks Sliders, 304 V8 with RV cam., T-176, D300, Dana 30, AMC 20.
1986 CJ10-A SD-33 Diesel/727/np208
1971 800B with 345/T-19
06' TJ Rubicon, 4" R.C. springs, BFG/AT 35s M.C. 6" fenders, rockers and surrounds, Currie front & rear adj. tracbars, tattons DC rear shaft, adj. upper - lower CA's. Bilstein 5100's
YJ Buggy Build Current project. Stroker/FI ?
1990 MJ Comanche 4.0L AX15/np231
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post #4 of 12 Old 04-06-2010, 03:39 PM
82CJ_Chemist
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I recently did Team Rush on my 258. I bought some Autolight wires for a like 82 ford inline 6 (300 cubic inch). they fit well and were not too long at all. They happend to be 8 mm silicone jacketed and cost $35 to $40 i think.

PLUGS: I just went to napa and told them year of my jeep and engine and chose the champion brand plugs. I bought a $1 spark plug gap tool and used it to set the plug gap to 0.045 inches. Insert the gap tool into the little space by the "hook," which is actually top electrode and force the gap between the bottom and top electrode to increase by moving the plug up the gap tool until ur reach 0.045 inches. this is what i did. don't drop plug

Team Rush was pretty simple and i am NO mechanic. Everything went smoothly and it runs really well. GOOD LUCK!
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post #5 of 12 Old 04-08-2010, 06:30 AM
Mike Romain
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Just another word of warning, you need to have a 'working' Jeep to do something like the team rush. Adding a whole pile of new variables to a non functioning engine is just asking for more trouble.

The team rush only replaces AMC designed parts with Ford designed parts. Lots of folks think that is an upgrade, I just think 'fix or repair daily'....

I can always remember my Dad cussing out the Ford distributor cap every time it cracked in rain storm or when hunting and driving through a mud puddle caused a crack. It rains a lot here in the east coast so Dad finally got smart and carried an extra distributor cap with him. It still was a pain when we had to change one out in the pissing rain.

I run OEM style AMC cap and rotor with the brass posts and it seems to work well. I have never cracked one by getting it wet, just have had to open it a few times to blow the condensation out with WD40 after a bad splash. Putting a rubber boot from a 6 cylinder Ford over the distributor cap stops this water splash.

Maybe all the Ford caps need this rubber cover boot to stop the cracking, maybe that is why they added the boot to the newer ones?

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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post #6 of 12 Old 04-08-2010, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
BigOrange90YJ
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it runs pretty good other than the bucking when it is under a lot of load; almost like ignition cant keep up with the engine

Currently Jeepless, if you get too frustrated with yours I'll take it off your hands.
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post #7 of 12 Old 04-08-2010, 01:46 PM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigOrange90YJ View Post
it runs pretty good other than the bucking when it is under a lot of load; almost like ignition cant keep up with the engine
I mentioned this in the other thread and figured it should be here too.

Having a slight buck or knock or ping all which cause a feel of power loss under real heavy load is considered normal and is caused by the timing advance being slightly high for best 'normal load and speed' running.

If it happens under a lighter load, then the timing can be too far advanced.

The 85 and 86 CJ owners manual mentions this timing knock and states if you are running hot and under load, (big tires and tall gears are 'load') high octane gas may be needed to correct this ping or knock. This is 'with' a computer controlled knock sensor adjusting the timing 'back' for you.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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post #8 of 12 Old 10-04-2011, 08:27 AM
bigdee2
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Team Rush Upgrade for the 304 V-8

Do you have the part numbers for the 304 V-8?
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post #9 of 12 Old 10-04-2011, 10:04 AM
mopar408
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remember NAPA has TWO ignition lines. Mileage Plus is better than the other FLAPS lines, but the Echlin is the best you can buy.Suck it up and buy the good stuff,
While there, get a set of NGK V-Groove spark plugs,Competitively priced, best you can buy, and a lot of the domestic stock plugs are made in a factory of theirs in Irvine Cal. that would make a hospital look sloppy.

If it's good TO you, it's gotta be good FOR you....
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post #10 of 12 Old 10-04-2011, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
BigOrange90YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdee2
Do you have the part numbers for the 304 V-8?
My understanding is the Team Rush "upgrade" is specifically for the 258.

Currently Jeepless, if you get too frustrated with yours I'll take it off your hands.
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post #11 of 12 Old 10-04-2011, 03:04 PM
mopar408
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"team Rush" may be a 258 thing but not the concept,
I bought a Motorcraft electronic distributor core for a 80 Wagoneer, gutted and cleaned it, welded and then machined back the distributor advance notch to achieve exactly what I wanted (not mandatory, just Mr Anal here)
Used NAPA Echlin pickup coil, rotor, cap, big-cap adapter, brass cap, a wiring harness they show, then fed it to a GM HEI 4-pin module thru a neat harness I made to a Motorcraft TFI coil w/ Accel 8mm wires.
Best single thing I did to it, BUT you can do the distributor alone and feed it to a GOOD/Echlin stock module and round coil.
Yes, it does have a 304 application, but take 'em a list of numbers off the 'Net.... this is a good "deer in the headlites" project for almost anyone at the FLAPS.

If it's good TO you, it's gotta be good FOR you....
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post #12 of 12 Old 10-04-2011, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
BigOrange90YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mopar408
"team Rush" may be a 258 thing but not the concept,
Yes, that's absolutely right.

Bigdee, if you already havnt, I would start a new thread with your questions.

Currently Jeepless, if you get too frustrated with yours I'll take it off your hands.
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