Originally Posted by 2Xtreme
My thoughts are this:
WAAAAY more aftermarket support
And a 2 hr drive (in the CJ) to the closest legal wheeling. 1.5 hr in any other vehicle
I'll address these
What do you know about fuel injection?
Have you priced lift kits for a TJ?
Support. Yes there are more bolt on parts.
Have a look under any New York 97 to 2000 TJ. I've have a friend with a '99, 120,000 miles, the bottom of the frame is rusted worse than any CJ I've seen.
Google : OPDA, ( oil pump drive assembly) '05 and '06 Jeep problems.
I had a '94 YJ. The frame is rusted just as bad a the CJ's . The frame cracked at the front steering box, rear frame horns rusted away, and rust in places on the front fenders in places I've never seen on a CJ. (Same issue with the fenders on a TJ)
I get 16.4 mpg with my '05 rubicon, 11 with my '78 DD , with the 304. Id rather drive the CJ. No one ever asked "hey, what year is that TJ.
To much plastic, but the AC is kick a$$.
Personally I'd rather put dents and scratches on my $3000 CJ than my $16,000 Rubicon,
And what's up with the useless tail door on YJ's and TJ's ? There useless. I'll take a tailgate any day.
2 words> Dana 35!
Also the front axle doesn't have lockouts. This means the U-joints in the axle shafts and front drive shaft are turning whenever the Jeep is moving.
The top on my '78 is nearly twice as thick as the '05. Even with these ribs it still vibrates at speed.
Door latches. The paddles on a TJ are reversed on TJ hard doors. This is a pain. Think about it, you walk up with your key in your right hand to unlock the door, the left hand doesn't work as well to open the door.
I drive this TJ 3 or 4 times a week, still not used to it.
Soft tops are nicer on a TJ .
Haha, what the heck are these for.
The sticker is nice .
Ask anyone with a TJ about fuel spraying from the filler when the auto stop shuts off from the nozzle. Ha, the only 2 fixes are a new tank (same issue down the road) or the filler tube from a S10 blazer.
So, TJ's aren't without their problems.